Gyeon Water Spot Remover - Mistake or Warning?

kevincwelch

kevincwelch

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About 1 year ago, I put Gyeon Mohs on my car. About 2w ago, when washing my car, I noticed water spots all over my hood. So, I sprayed on Gyeon Water Spot Remover and wiped it off as the instructions state (and some videos). Water spots were gone. Played around with TAC System Moonlight. Beading was good during the raining.

For various reasons, I haven't been able to wash my car for the past 2 weeks until today (2BW with Mystic Bubble). Filthy. I noticed that when I rinsed my car, the hood wasn't beading or sheeting very well. So, I washed the hood again. Still poor beading and sheeting. OK. Maybe there is some residue on the car. I use Panel Wipe on the hood and it makes no difference. I spray the hood with BF WW and use my fine grade Nanoskin sponge and take off a fair amount of contamination. Baggie test reveals that it is mostly smooth. I rinse the hood and it is only marginally better. (Maybe there is some BFWW material left behind.)

Did Water Spot Remover take off the Gyeon Mohs??? I can't believe it. But, I don't know what else to do at this point to see if I can remove any possible surface polymers, etc. Is it possible that there was some Water Spot Remover that reacted with Moonlight?

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Damn Kevin.. That is ugly news. Obviously each product on their own cannot.. But maybe you're right, the acid base of the water spot and which ever oil based solvent in Moonlight. It the only plausible varient I can think of
 
Time for a new coat Kevin, I wonder if your thinking along the same lines as me ( just to be clear I'm not applying a new coating to my car it's only a month old.)

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I was thinking that the only recourse I have is to polish with some CarPro Essence and coat.

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Klasse Act said:
Is Essence a pure polish?
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It contains a silica base that is left behind after polishing. It's basically an AIO that you can actually top with a bona fide coating after the fact without having to use a prep solution. Just buff the excess Essence and then coat.

On the other hand, I have some Jescar that I've been waiting to try.
 
I doubt it removed the coating. If it did then that does not say much for mohs even if it is 1 year old.

It could be a bad reaction to whatever was sitting on top of the coating. The claying could have removed some of it. I would keep on washing it to see if the coating's performance ever reappears. If not maybe it requires a heavy decon wash.
 
IIRC with a coated car your supposed to do a chemical decon rather than a mechanical one, right? If so, maybe go that route, see how it goes and if needed, recoat the hood.

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kevincwelch said:
It contains a silica base that is left behind after polishing. It's basically an AIO that you can actually top with a bona fide coating after the fact without having to use a prep solution. Just buff the excess Essence and then coat.

On the other hand, I have some Jescar that I've been waiting to try.
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Thanks Kevin!

I'm going to see where my paint is after 1 year of service and go from there. If I can use something like Essence and NOT have to use a designated polish like Optimum hyper polish I'd like to do that. Now it's not because I didn't like what Optimum hyper polish did for me, quite the opposite because it brought out EVERYTHING in the metallic and removed the light swirls and marks in the paint but less abrasive is always the best route of coarse and with using Essence you get just that.

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Washed the car again, and prior to that, I bathed it in TriX.

Nada.

I really think something happened there.

I remember distinctly that CarPro Spotless had you at one point wash off the spot remover. There are no such instructions for Gyeon Water Spot Remover. I think it did something to the coating at this point.

I did some reading in the literature about sio2 and there is some evidence that acids can dissolve Sio2 bonds, but the acid has to be strong. I wonder if I left some down and then covered it with Moonlight.

Either way, I think I'm headed toward a recoat.

Put some PA High Gloss on today to provide some protection.

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From The Gyeon website:

"While use of GYEON WaterSpot can affect the hydrophobic properties of the coating, so a coating of GYEON Boost or GYEON WetCoat may be in order. Avoid leaving GYEON WaterSpot on paint or glass for prolonged periods of time."
 
glfnaz said:
From The Gyeon website:

"While use of GYEON WaterSpot can affect the hydrophobic properties of the coating, so a coating of GYEON Boost or GYEON WetCoat may be in order. Avoid leaving GYEON WaterSpot on paint or glass for prolonged periods of time."
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If anything, I may have left it on too long - and by that I mean it's possible that I didn't wipe it fully away. The thing is, however, I've used it for spot removal before and never noticed anything as bad as this.

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I think my making that statement though, Gyeon is aware that WaterSpot hurts the coating. I feel for you and your car though.
 
glfnaz said:
I think my making that statement though, Gyeon is aware that WaterSpot hurts the coating. I feel for you and your car though.
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Right. I've hesitated to use water spot removers in the past, and this is a good lesson for me. Damn.

Oh well...

New purchases!

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kevincwelch said:
Right. I've hesitated to use water spot removers in the past, and this is a good lesson for me. Damn.

Oh well...

New purchases!

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Click to expand...
Yes

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Give it a spray of Quartz Max for protection while you are getting ready to recoat.
 
I avoid waterspot removers for that very reason, it's not that the products took your coating off. It's that they've ruined the surface tension. I would do a test of washing your car and then rubbing a finger tip to feel any differences between the non beading panels and the other panels. My suggestion, if you want to bring back the beading, is to use a super light clay if it needs it, and then instead of a spray paint cleanser, use a paint cleansing lotion of some sort. Then just re coat it. You'll just be adding on another layer of coating with proper surface tension ontop of your old coating.
 
I put on a layer of PA High Gloss, rlmccarty2000. That should hold it for while.

WillSports3, I agree with you. It's just hard to imagine that Mohs was taken down by this product, so I guess the surface tension is modified now. I have done the claying already (Nanoskin), and in a week or two I will hit the hood with a few passes of Jescar finishing polish using a white pad with my Rupes. The hood needs no (or only minimal) correction, so it should be fast. It's a good opportunity to test a new coating.

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So what coating are you going to try?

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