Headlight restoration 50/50.

Thats some sweet work right there. I need to try this out on my TSX headlights even though they are just slightly chipped. I remember when I used to have my performance shop and the bodyshop next door would throw away perfectly good headlights, I would go pick them up and restore them. They would look at me like I was crazy. Good job.
 
Here are some lights I've done using Hotrods method.
It seems the worse off they are originally, the better they look when your done. (Or, the more of the original coating that is oxidized, the easier they are to sand and the better they are when your finished) The ones I have trouble with are the ones that still have most of the original coating that is good but the top of the lense is oxidized and looks bad. The two used car lots I work with demand a swirl free look/finish. So far, I've been pains-takingly using a coarse grit to totally remove the "good" coating so that I can assure an even look across the whole lens. Another member advised me to try leaving the "good" coating alone and only try to fix the bad top part, then wet sand with 3000 the entire lens and apply a new coating to the whole lens. I have an expedition to do in the morning that only the top part is bad. I'm going to try this method to see if I can blend the good and bad parts without removing the "good" coating. Wish me luck. I unfortunately do not have the advantage of being a bodyman(sucks to be me...lol) just an 22 year auto mechanic.....lol (I hope these pictures show up on the post. My first time with this type stuff)
 
Part-timer said:
Here are some lights I've done using Hotrods method.
It seems the worse off they are originally, the better they look when your done. (Or, the more of the original coating that is oxidized, the easier they are to sand and the better they are when your finished) The ones I have trouble with are the ones that still have most of the original coating that is good but the top of the lense is oxidized and looks bad. The two used car lots I work with demand a swirl free look/finish. So far, I've been pains-takingly using a coarse grit to totally remove the "good" coating so that I can assure an even look across the whole lens. Another member advised me to try leaving the "good" coating alone and only try to fix the bad top part, then wet sand with 3000 the entire lens and apply a new coating to the whole lens. I have an expedition to do in the morning that only the top part is bad. I'm going to try this method to see if I can blend the good and bad parts without removing the "good" coating. Wish me luck. I unfortunately do not have the advantage of being a bodyman(sucks to be me...lol) just an 22 year auto mechanic.....lol (I hope these pictures show up on the post. My first time with this type stuff)
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This method without polishing is alot better. Im 100% sure its more effective and will hold on A LOT longer. Now what i really want to see is how long will they last before they turn yellow again... hmmm. :dunno:
 
93fox said:
This method without polishing is alot better. Im 100% sure its more effective and will hold on A LOT longer. Now what i really want to see is how long will they last before they turn yellow again... hmmm. :dunno:
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Well the guy who originally posted the spar urethane idea had posts up well over a year after first doing them with no problem and that was WITH compounding so we'll see...
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Well the guy who originally posted the spar urethane idea had posts up well over a year after first doing them with no problem and that was WITH compounding so we'll see...
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I am sure this method will last alot longer that compounding. After i tested this method, and compared it to the steps taken to paint a car, compounding just seems pointless.
 
93fox said:
I am sure this method will last alot longer that compounding. After i tested this method, and compared it to the steps taken to paint a car, compounding just seems pointless.
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well keep us up to date with a new post in 2012 :dblthumb2:
 
Nice job, Oscar! :props:

I thought I read somewhere that you could apply the urethane after sanding with 1500 grit?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Nice job, Oscar! :props:

I thought I read somewhere that you could apply the urethane after sanding with 1500 grit?
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The spar goes on pretty thin if you reduce it down; I'd imagine you might need a couple coats for proper coverage. Haven't tried that yet.

Automotive Clear, on the other hand, should fill 1500 grit scratches with relative ease.
 
Rei86 said:
well keep us up to date with a new post in 2012 :dblthumb2:
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thanks for the tip! i sure will keep people updated!

07 z-oh-6 said:
Nice job, Oscar! :props:

I thought I read somewhere that you could apply the urethane after sanding with 1500 grit?
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Thanks Mark! i have to try it at 1500 and see if any scratches are still visible. at 3000 grit there werent any sand scratches visible at all.


Shiny Lil Detlr said:
The spar goes on pretty thin if you reduce it down; I'd imagine you might need a couple coats for proper coverage. Haven't tried that yet.

Automotive Clear, on the other hand, should fill 1500 grit scratches with relative ease.
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Yes Charlie it is reduced. Its one part urethane and one part mineral spirits. it goes down super smooth and thin. so far only one coat covers everything and does pretty well with just one quote.

On the other hand, automotive clear should be applied over 1000grit finish on headlights. 1500 is too risky for the clear to adhere well. Im sure it will lay down nice but the chances of it failing after time are high.
 
The only thing I am going by is the visable look prior to applying the spar. With only 1500, the lenses still look sorta cloudy to me. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I have always used 3000 3M Trizact foam sanding discs in the past and it looks way better visually prior to thr spar. My thought is that, if it looks clearer prior to spar, it'll look better after the spar. I've only tried compounding the last couple cars I've done to try to get rid of the need for the mega-expensive Trizact pads....and it seems to give just as good or better look. I'm gonna keep experimenting with the compound for a while, unless I run into problems. I DO very much appreciate everyone's input and advice. Thanks to all!!!
 
93fox said:
Yes Charlie it is reduced. Its one part urethane and one part mineral spirits. it goes down super smooth and thin. so far only one coat covers everything and does pretty well with just one quote.

On the other hand, automotive clear should be applied over 1000grit finish on headlights. 1500 is too risky for the clear to adhere well. Im sure it will lay down nice but the chances of it failing after time are high.
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Granted; I wasn't saying using it that way would be proper protocol, I was just addressing the issue of coverage over 1500 grit scratches.
 
Nice job of the 50/50. I know that Barry Theal did a post in which he sanded down to 1500 and then went straight to automotive clear. The headlights looked fantastic.
 
longdx said:
Nice job of the 50/50. I know that Barry Theal did a post in which he sanded down to 1500 and then went straight to automotive clear. The headlights looked fantastic.
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1500 is a little to high for automotive clear. Applying clear over a 1500g finish there is a very high chance the clear will fail. It also has the chance of chipping super easily. Thats why i apply automotive clear over a 800g finish or the highest over a 1000g finish. Automotive clears are very hard and thick and need a "rough" surface to "bite" on to. Thats why 1500g is too high and risky. Yes it will lay down nice and it will look nice but there will be problems down the road. :dblthumb2:
 
Wow, that looks amazing. I might have to attempt this with my Mustang headlights which are victims of hazing in the Texas sun!
 
longdx said:
Nice job of the 50/50. I know that Barry Theal did a post in which he sanded down to 1500 and then went straight to automotive clear. The headlights looked fantastic.
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I thought what Barry used was a coating specific to composite lenses, not automotive clear.... :dunno:
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
I thought what Barry used was a coating specific to composite lenses, not automotive clear.... :dunno:
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I believe you are correct. He also offers a warranty with his process if I remember correctly. Let's see if he chimes in...
 
Hey Great thread here! Those are some pretty amazing results for wiping it on. DId the urethane lay as level as the pics look? Also I didn't use Automotive clear in my thread. I used a clear designed for polycarbonite lense's There is a difference. A big Difference. I'm real curious t see how the stuff holds up. Wow that would be fantastic to see it does. This seems like an outstanding method. Most urethane based products won't hold up to direct sunlight now will they hold up from heat thatis generated from the light itself. The product I've been using with outstanding results is below.

Private Label Products Automotive Products Cumberland Products

The biggest issue I would see here is it not withstanding uv rays.. Man if it holds up. Im on it. Great post. How hard is the actual material when cured. Clear coats won't hold up against rock chips and other elements. Thanks for posting this.
 
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