Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

O.C.Detailing said:
I charge $60 for headlight restorations. It's where you make the most hourly rate in detailing, at least for me it is. I usually knock out both headlights in 2 hours and that's $30/hr. for me here in Lynchburg. Detailing, I MAYBE make $10/hr. but the pay-off is SOOOO much better!
Click to expand...

You only get 10/hr for detailing? Is that for just wash/wax or is that for full correctional work? If thats full correctional work maybe you should consider charging on an hourly basis, most guys ive seen are asking $50+/hr for full show car detailing...I've seen your work...your worth that hourly rate for sure...then you can have money AND payoff lol
 
I finally mixed up a small batch and tried it on a Grand Cherokee fog light and my G35 headlight. My initial wipe (with the Scott paper towel) left wavy lines and I did a second wipe to thin it out but left "brush strokes". I cleaned it up with mineral spirits and tried again. The second time, it spread out quickly and easily. I had to do this second try for both lights. I'm pleased with the results but wondering why it won't set up correctly the first time. Have you guys had this problem? Mix ratio is exactly 1:1. Should I try a little more of the mineral spirits or more of the sealer? BTW, this time my process was ONLY wet-sanding with 1500/2400/3200/4000/6000 then the sealer (which filled in most fine scratches). Thanks for any input.
 
g35_coupe said:
I finally mixed up a small batch and tried it on a Grand Cherokee fog light and my G35 headlight. My initial wipe (with the Scott paper towel) left wavy lines and I did a second wipe to thin it out but left "brush strokes". I cleaned it up with mineral spirits and tried again. The second time, it spread out quickly and easily. I had to do this second try for both lights. I'm pleased with the results but wondering why it won't set up correctly the first time. Have you guys had this problem? Mix ratio is exactly 1:1. Should I try a little more of the mineral spirits or more of the sealer? BTW, this time my process was ONLY wet-sanding with 1500/2400/3200/4000/6000 then the sealer (which filled in most fine scratches). Thanks for any input.
Click to expand...
If you wanted to you could try the foam paint brush instead of the paper towel applicator. Alot of times it takes me 2 applications until I get it just right. I have not changed any dilution ratios yet, but I think others have. Are you applying the sealant in a garage or outside? Don't apply the sealant in direct sunlight if possible, it seems to be more finicky. And high humidity sometimes will cause a hassle. But I have applied the urethane and noticed a few streaks, but it seems to even it self out after sitting for 45 seconds or a little longer. If it does not 'self level' in a reasonable amount of time, then remove with the mineral spirits and start over.

I am not sure that I would wet sand with anything above 2000 for headlights, and after sanding I machine polish them. I am not an expert but if the surface of the lights are too smooth, then the sealant might have trouble bonding and maybe thats where the streaks are coming from.

But, this method does have a slight learning curve, so try several things differently to help eliminate your problems.
 
g35_coupe said:
I finally mixed up a small batch and tried it on a Grand Cherokee fog light and my G35 headlight. My initial wipe (with the Scott paper towel) left wavy lines and I did a second wipe to thin it out but left "brush strokes". I cleaned it up with mineral spirits and tried again. The second time, it spread out quickly and easily. I had to do this second try for both lights. I'm pleased with the results but wondering why it won't set up correctly the first time. Have you guys had this problem? Mix ratio is exactly 1:1. Should I try a little more of the mineral spirits or more of the sealer? BTW, this time my process was ONLY wet-sanding with 1500/2400/3200/4000/6000 then the sealer (which filled in most fine scratches). Thanks for any input.
Click to expand...

Happen to take any before/after pictures?:Picture:
 
HotRod said:
If you wanted to you could try the foam paint brush instead of the paper towel applicator. Alot of times it takes me 2 applications until I get it just right. I have not changed any dilution ratios yet, but I think others have. Are you applying the sealant in a garage or outside? Don't apply the sealant in direct sunlight if possible, it seems to be more finicky. And high humidity sometimes will cause a hassle. But I have applied the urethane and noticed a few streaks, but it seems to even it self out after sitting for 45 seconds or a little longer. If it does not 'self level' in a reasonable amount of time, then remove with the mineral spirits and start over.

I am not sure that I would wet sand with anything above 2000 for headlights, and after sanding I machine polish them. I am not an expert but if the surface of the lights are too smooth, then the sealant might have trouble bonding and maybe thats where the streaks are coming from.

But, this method does have a slight learning curve, so try several things differently to help eliminate your problems.
Click to expand...

I'm applying it in the garage at night which is a little humid and about 80 degrees. I took a close look this morning and only noticed a small amount of streaking because a little gnat or something landed on the lens right after applying and just did one pass down the middle. The finish and shine though is unbeatable though. I'll be doing a mobile restoration business as a side job so I'm worried about applying this in the sun/wind for customers. How do you guys do it?

Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Happen to take any before/after pictures?:Picture:
Click to expand...
I will be doing the other side soon and will try to get some good close-ups.
 
g35_coupe said:
I'm applying it in the garage at night which is a little humid and about 80 degrees. I took a close look this morning and only noticed a small amount of streaking because a little gnat or something landed on the lens right after applying and just did one pass down the middle. The finish and shine though is unbeatable though. I'll be doing a mobile restoration business as a side job so I'm worried about applying this in the sun/wind for customers. How do you guys do it?


I will be doing the other side soon and will try to get some good close-ups.
Click to expand...

EZ up tent! That will give you your shade. It doesnt have to be that brand but, something like it. Its the next thing on my list. Unless you get lucky (like i have been most times) and end up with a customer with a garage. I dont know where you're at, but the Sports Authority here in Az has a 10x10 for $80 and a side curtain for $20 that adds onto the tent...ebay has a lot of different ones for sale as well.

Just make sure you get one that has a little bag or something that it comes in, dont want to have it rolling around and lose some pieces ya know? Only thing i noticed with them is the actual horizontal bar is about 6'3...so taller SUV's might be difficult....but then again if you can put the poles up onto somethin long enough to get the main body of the SUV under the tent, then you're good....because i think the actual center of the tent is closer to 10'....just gotta miss that first bar :dblthumb2:
 
I was thinking about the tent idea but don't need to haul around a whole bunch of stuff. I have a duffle bag (MF's, drop light, extension cord, 2 drill batteries, drill, charger, sandpaper, polishing compounds), small tub with paper towels/polishing pads, camera, spray bottle, and small tripod. All this in the trunk of a G35 coupe which is my only vehicle (besides my wife's Jeep). A tent would just take up that much more space in the car, be one more thing to set up/tear down and be another investment I'd need to recoup. Plus i'd probably need weights if it's windy in the middle of a parking lot, right?
 
g35_coupe said:
I was thinking about the tent idea but don't need to haul around a whole bunch of stuff. I have a duffle bag (MF's, drop light, extension cord, 2 drill batteries, drill, charger, sandpaper, polishing compounds), small tub with paper towels/polishing pads, camera, spray bottle, and small tripod. All this in the trunk of a G35 coupe which is my only vehicle (besides my wife's Jeep). A tent would just take up that much more space in the car, be one more thing to set up/tear down and be another investment I'd need to recoup. Plus i'd probably need weights if it's windy in the middle of a parking lot, right?
Click to expand...

Ya if its windy you'd either need weights or 5 gal buckets full with water. Sorry i misunderstood..your doing ONLY headlights as a thing on the side...not full details?

If you're only doing headlights then i would think you should be able to kinda rig something for yourself to just cover the headlight area that would be much smaller. Maybe something as simple as 1 1/2-2" PVC for your poles...just make them high enough to clear the hood of the car..and then just make another connection at the top with PVC 90 degree fittings and more tubing..just to make a mini tent...and possibly use a sheet or blanket of some sort as the top. Thats just the first idea off the top of my head...and it would still be something more you'd have to bring with.

Then there is always the simple thing to where...you just park the vehicle so that the sun is at its back :). Just explain to the owner it cant be done in direct light and either have them leave you the keys or just have them park it in a position so that the vehicle itself provides most of the shade. Just can't do it in the dead middle of the afternoon lol. Or if you're in a parking lot as you said...have them park it on a shaded side of a building in that parking lot. Just some ideas, not sure if they help any or not..but i hope so:xyxthumbs:
 
Yeah, it's strictly headlights. Maybe I could hold an umbrella while I apply the sealant, LOL. I'm sure doing someone's car in the middle of an open parking lot at 2pm won't happen too often. I'd just have to schedule the work in the evenings or just get more info on the car's location (parking garage, home garage, etc.) like you said. Are you guys making customers wait about an hour for the mixture to cure?
 
g35_coupe said:
Yeah, it's strictly headlights. Maybe I could hold an umbrella while I apply the sealant, LOL. I'm sure doing someone's car in the middle of an open parking lot at 2pm won't happen too often. I'd just have to schedule the work in the evenings or just get more info on the car's location (parking garage, home garage, etc.) like you said. Are you guys making customers wait about an hour for the mixture to cure?
Click to expand...

From what ive read on here i think it was a 24 hr dry time that was recommended. Go back a page or two on this thread and you will probably find the answer.
 
Yeah, I saw on Minwax's site (and the can) of the dry time.

Well, my neighbor's g/f let me do her Jeep's headlights for free since I'm just starting out and still experimenting. I tried some 600 wet/dry and it wasn't even scratching the surface (no pun intended). Knowing my arm would fall off before any progress was made, I ran to Home Depot for some coarser grit (150/220/300). I wasn't able to get all of the crazing out but the major damage was eliminated. I followed up with the 600/1500/2400/PB SSR 3/Diamondite Plastic Enhancer/Spar Urethane Mix. Once again, I had to remove the first application of the Urethane with mineral spirits and re-apply. On the driver's headlight, I was rushed so I have some sanding marks from the first few grades of sandpaper. Overall, I'm happy with the passenger light. I'm sure the neighbor and his g/f are happy compared to what they looked like before and it was free after all. From start the finish, it took about 3 1/2 hours. 30 mins was to Home Depot and about another 30 mins spinning my wheels with the initial 600 grit. :mad: Anyways I'll let the pics speak for themselves....

DSC03885.jpg

DSC03888.jpg

DSC03886.jpg

DSC03893.jpg


In this pic, you can still see some of the sanding marks but I was pressed for time so some more patience would've made a huge difference....

DSC03890.jpg
 
g35_coupe said:
Yeah, I saw on Minwax's site (and the can) of the dry time.

Well, my neighbor's g/f let me do her Jeep's headlights for free since I'm just starting out and still experimenting. I tried some 600 wet/dry and it wasn't even scratching the surface (no pun intended). Knowing my arm would fall off before any progress was made, I ran to Home Depot for some coarser grit (150/220/300). I wasn't able to get all of the crazing out but the major damage was eliminated. I followed up with the 600/1500/2400/PB SSR 3/Diamondite Plastic Enhancer/Spar Urethane Mix. Once again, I had to remove the first application of the Urethane with mineral spirits and re-apply. On the driver's headlight, I was rushed so I have some sanding marks from the first few grades of sandpaper. Overall, I'm happy with the passenger light. I'm sure the neighbor and his g/f are happy compared to what they looked like before and it was free after all. From start the finish, it took about 3 1/2 hours. 30 mins was to Home Depot and about another 30 mins spinning my wheels with the initial 600 grit. :mad: Anyways I'll let the pics speak for themselves....

DSC03885.jpg

DSC03888.jpg

DSC03886.jpg

DSC03893.jpg


In this pic, you can still see some of the sanding marks but I was pressed for time so some more patience would've made a huge difference....

DSC03890.jpg
Click to expand...

I think you did a great job...and for free too...yeah they cant complain. At least it helped you refine your process, bet you save a good 60-90 minutes on the next one for sure. Looks good man, cant even really see the sand marks unless you REALLLLY look close...thanks for the pics!
 
Sorry if this was addressed somewhere else but I've been wondering what makes headlight yellow and get hazy? I've been noticing a lot of cars with the headlights hazed but marker lights right next to them nice and clear. Why do headlights do it but most other lights not?
 
S2K said:
Sorry if this was addressed somewhere else but I've been wondering what makes headlight yellow and get hazy? I've been noticing a lot of cars with the headlights hazed but marker lights right next to them nice and clear. Why do headlights do it but most other lights not?
Click to expand...

Headlights seem to have more exposure to not only the sun (most are angled and not perpendicular), they get hotter (from the sun and light bulb heat output), get pelted with road debris. It starts eating away at the shiny layer. I'm sure if the sidemarker lights or tail lights were placed forward-facing, they'd be just as damaged.
 
Hey G35, i was just wondering, do you WET sand using all those stages of sandpaper...or dry...or somewhere in between?
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Hey G35, i was just wondering, do you WET sand using all those stages of sandpaper...or dry...or somewhere in between?
Click to expand...


Thanks for the input guys. I did a mix of dry/wet on the passenger side with the initial 3 grades. From 600 and up, it was all wet sanding. Since the urethane was setting up and I hadn't even touched the driver's side, I strictly wet sanded the second light to avoid stirring up a lot of dust. Trust me, dry sanding with 150 creates plenty of it.
 
how durable is this coating?- if you rub on it with your finger or score it with your finger nail, does it scratch?

i know this material can expand and contract with wood, so I'm wondering if it's too soft when cured.
 
pman626 said:
how durable is this coating?- if you rub on it with your finger or score it with your finger nail, does it scratch?

i know this material can expand and contract with wood, so I'm wondering if it's soft when cured.
Click to expand...

Others with more experience can chime in but my g35 headlight seems pretty durable if you try to scratch it your fingernail. It doesn't catch, it just slides across the lens. When I decided to re-apply it after it dried (from my very first attempt), I had to wet-sand with 600 grit to take it off.


On the can it says you can apply a second coat after 4 hours. Has anyone tried a second coat? I may have to get a trashed lens and put it through a little test trial.
 
g35_coupe said:
On the can it says you can apply a second coat after 4 hours. Has anyone tried a second coat? I may have to get a trashed lens and put it through a little test trial.
Click to expand...


the OP only used one coat on his beater and it lasted this long.

for a 2nd coat, I would be worried about making it too thick that it would be prone to chipping. maybe..



man, this thread has got me excited. One pint of this urethane is only $7, and it sounds like it works as well as the GlassyLite lens product, which costs $30, and only gives you like 2 tablespoons of clear coat.
This sounds like the poorboy's Glassylite method
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top