Help!! Audi A5 Sline Brilliant Black: Swirl Removal

foamingcarwash

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Have issues removing the swirls. Looks fantastic under the LED lighting once I hit it with natural light wow! they are still there.. Please Help!!

Process:
Wash: Foam Can, Dawn Dish Soap
Clay/Lube: Clay Magic, ONR
Paint Gauge: ELCOMETER
Wet Sand: Meguiars Sanding Pad, Meguiars Unigrit 2500, 3000, 3M Trizact 5000
Polisher: FLEX VRG
Pad: LC Foamed Wool, LC Hydro-Tech: Cyan, Tangerine & White
Product: Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0, Menzerna Super Intensive, Menzerna Super Finish


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Are you sure you are seeing swirls and not holograms?

Do you have a DA to use for your final finishing step?

Photos would be useful.
 
Are you sure you are seeing swirls and not holograms?

Do you have a DA to use for your final finishing step?

Photos would be useful.

Using FLEX Dual Action Orbital Polisher..

Under LED Lighting
Haven't worked on (Right)
smejoz.jpg

Worked on (Left)
2j4q0b4.jpg


Under Sunlight Lighting
Haven't worked on
muxwfl.jpg

Worked on
iqk0w1.jpg
 
I don't know but even your last (after) photo doesn't look right for a surface you've sanded up thru 5000 grit.
 
Hard to see any swirls in the pics of the paint that was worked. All I see is haze.
 
I don't know but even your last (after) photo doesn't look right for a surface you've sanded up thru 5000 grit.


Yes I have done a very similar process on a SL500 and a 64 Impala and the results were amazing.. I have read on other forums that it is very hard to remove swirls and imperfections on the Brilliant Black Very hard thick Paint

Haven't worked on
91di8h.jpg

Worked on
igg7pk.jpg
 
Did you take thickness readings before and after sanding (with your elcometer)? Do you know how much paint was removed?

You say everything was done with the flex vrg, and I see no DA pigtails, then my conclusion would be there are still some deeper scratches left after the wetsanding and you need to remove more clear if safe.
 
Those don't look like swirls left over, they appear to be tracers from the wetsanding by hand.
 
Even if you stopped at 2500 grit, the purple wool + Uber compound should have been able to remove those sanding marks.

That looks like marring from your MF towel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Did you take thickness readings before and after sanding (with your elcometer)? Do you know how much paint was removed?

You say everything was done with the flex vrg, and I see no DA pigtails, then my conclusion would be there are still some deeper scratches left after the wetsanding and you need to remove more clear if safe.

It should be safe.. Hood Readings: Left 11.9 Center 11.9 Right 12.2

Those don't look like swirls left over, they appear to be tracers from the wetsanding by hand.

finished off sanding with 3" GG But for sure the swirls are still on the hood.
 
It looks like you might be rubbing little too hard when you're removing your final polish. What kind of towels are you using?

Sent from my HTC One X using AG Online
 
As I said before, try a better quality MF towel.

The "woobie" MF towel sold here are very good.

It looks like you might be rubbing little too hard when you're removing your final polish. What kind of towels are you using?

Sent from my HTC One X using AG Online


I have two different Gold Towels. Cobra and Chemical Guys wash them color coordinated and use chemical guys microfiber wash
 
I have two different Gold Towels. Cobra and Chemical Guys wash them color coordinated and use chemical guys microfiber wash
Both of those will marr soft paint. I've tried a ton of MF towels and there's only been two I've come across that don't marr soft black paint.
 
I don't those scratches are caused by the towel, they look too deep. You've got more work to do.

Sent from my HTC One using AG Online
 
Those don't look like swirls left over, they appear to be tracers from the wetsanding by hand.

Even if you stopped at 2500 grit, the purple wool + Uber compound should have been able to remove those sanding marks.

That looks like marring from your MF towel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks to me like one of these. My guess is the paint is, in fact, not quite as hard as you previously thought.

Interested in seeing what solves this problem.
 
Being that you started with 2500 grit those don't look like tracers left over by you, but they're all straight lines left to right and up and down giving a swirled look. There is always a chance a bodyshop did a repaint and those are tracers left over from their more aggressive wet sanding. I had that problem with my black jeep.
 
To me it honestly looks like you haven't compounded the sand scratches/previous defects out completely.

The combinations of polishes and pads you listed in your arsenal should be able to remove them.
 
Anyone else?


Here's my take... from the last "finished" picture, it looks like light haze or marring from the pads, abrasives and action of the tool.





Help!! Audi A5 Sline Brilliant Black: Swirl Removal

Here's the first red flag.... it's an Audi. Audi has paint all over the spectrum of hard and soft and more specifically, polishable and un-polishable.

Have issues removing the swirls.



Menzerna Super Finish


Assuming, and I hate assuming, but assuming you're finishing out using the least aggressive Menzerna polish in your arsenal, which the accurate name is,

SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)



and you're still getting these kind of results...


Worked on

igg7pk.jpg

Then I'd say the primary problem isn't you or the polish but the paint.

Here's what I would try, I would get my hands on a non-forced dual action polisher and re-try polishing using a soft foam pad like the Lake Country 5.5" black flat pad with the same polish.

Start at highest speed setting, especially if it's the Porter Cable unit and after about 4 section passes, reduce speed just a little and reduce downward pressure.

At least that's what I would "test".


I've never seen a paint system that Menzerna polishes could not finish out perfect on. Sometimes, some paint systems just don't like to be finished out using a forced rotation dual action polisher. I talk about that in this thread, see posts #31 and #32

Christmas Detail - Ferrari P4 - Move over Rudolf


In context I was talking about soft paints. I'm not sure where the paint is on "this" Audi A5. Generally speaking Audi's are known for having very hard paints.

But I've documented that they can also have very soft paints, as in soft like butter.

Audi Soft Paint - Making Generalizations about Hardness and Softness


So give it a try... if you don't have a PC or a knock-off of the PC in your tool arsenal then get one. They're great for machine wetsanding, machine applying waxes and sometimes you just need a tool with a different operating action for some paint systems.

You can't "test" if you don't have a variety of tools to test with.



Yes I have done a very similar process on a SL500 and a 64 Impala and the results were amazing.

Vindicated.

I always tell people paint systems are different and this means they react differently.

What works on one paint system doesn't automatically mean the same, pads, tools and products are going to work on different paint system.

For those that might not understand, when I say or type "different paint systems" that's like saying different "cars". Cars, trucks and suvs have "paint systems" on them and they are all different.

Make sense? :dunno:


I have read on other forums that it is very hard to remove swirls and imperfections on the Brilliant Black Very hard thick Paint

Don't know if this is the same type of paint that was on other Audi Q5 I worked on recently but I absolutely hated the paint on the Audi Q5 and would not only not ever offer to detail one, as in remove the swirls out of the paint on one of these cars I would recommend to people that LIKE to do their own car detailing to avoid this car or be ready for a lifetime of misery. Absolutely horrible paint.


2014_Black_Audi_Q5_001.jpg




p.s.

Since you included a link to your website I checked it out and noticed you used the definition I wrote for the term Section Pass on your Services page.

In my life I often find it hard to teach someone how to detail a car using a keyboard when it would be so much easier to show them in person. Because years ago, before the Porter Cable dual action polisher and all the knock-offs were so popular I had to find a way to wordsmith a way to describe how to move the polisher over paint to remove swirls and because the crosshatch pattern is a pattern that easy easy to use, easy to teach and effective at UMR, I wrote the definition of a single pass so I could then use this to write and explain a section pass.


I think it's this article where I either first used the terms or at least really dialed them in and also introduced the acronym UMR.

Step-by-Step How-To use the Porter Cable 7424XP


Post #8

Mike Phillips said:
Overlap your passes by 50%
After you spread the product out, now it's time to slow your Arm Speed down and begin making overlapping passes usually in a back and forth, side-to-side pattern.

The goal is UMR, that is Uniform Material Removal.

The reason for this is so that you remove an equal amount of paint over each section and in turn over the entire car. In order to do this you need a method that you can control and duplicate and for most people following a back and forth, side-to-side pattern works because it’s easy to remember, easy to do and easy to duplicate over and over again.


The definition of a pass
There are two definitions of the word pass as it relates to machine polishing with any type of machine.


Single Pass
A single pass is just that, it's when you move the polisher from one side of the section you're buffing to the other side of the section you're buffing. That's a single pass.


Section Pass
A section pass is when you move the polisher back and forth, or front to back with enough single overlapping passes to cover the entire section one time. That's a section pass.


Not that it matters but

"Everything comes from somewhere"


The above article was the first article I wrote after coming to Autogeek in 2009 from Meguiar's. I buffed out the 2008 Lexus IS 250 for this article which was so foreign to me as I don't normally buff out daily drivers like this car. It hat horrible paint too by the way.


Keep us updated as to your progress please. What you find out works on this car/paint system will help others into the future.
:)
 
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