How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits

Every so often I am back to reading this thread and the attached links. There's always a way to get better and be more efficient. Completely nailed it on machine cleaning the windows. saves time and it looks great .Let's face it, it's going to annoy the customer if they get in their nice shiny car and they end up looing through water spots. Great info.


Thank you... I put a lot of work into my articles as well as include easy to click on links to related topics and appreciate the kind words...



This is excellent advise! One step is my top selling package, a big part of my customer base are daily driven vehicles. Every client is blown away with the results and is usually above their expectations, and all from just a onestep polish. A happy customer is money in the bank and keeps me in business!


Vindicated.

Thank you for posting the above...


:dblthumb2:
 
i'm wondering if Autoglym srp would do as a AIO, or doesn't it have enough cut?
 
i'm wondering if Autoglym srp would do as a AIO, or doesn't it have enough cut?


I've never used this product or if if I have it would have been 6-7 years ago when I had all the Autoglym products for testing purposes.


Autogeek.net doesn't carry Autoglym but a quick search of the Autoglym website found this...


Autoglym said:
Autoglym Super Resin Polish...

contains specialized emulsifiers and conditioners


When I read the word emulsifiers as an ingredient in the formula that comes off to me as chemical cleaners. The description says nothing about containing any type of mechanical cleaners or abrasives.

You could always give it a try...


:)
 
Mr. Phillips, first off, thank you for this topic. Like others, I constantly come back to it for reference.

To other contributors, many thanks for your insights as well.

I have posed some questions around other 'detailing' forums but thought I would receive more pointed feedback from posting it here, in this topic.

I haven't formally opened the doors to my business... just in the 'friends and family' stage. Refining my packages, paying attention to time, and evaluating my processes.

My last package to round out is my base package- the exterior wash/ wax. I want to incorporate a cleaner wax for all the reasons listed in Mr. Phillips original post and for other contributor's notions listed in the pages following.

I was looking heavily at Meguiar's Mirror Glaze line of cleaner waxes (especially #6 & #66. I'm not married to those choices, I just like that they incorporate both mechanical and chemical cleaning abilities.) However, cleaner waxes are something I have more or less applied by hand previous to my experience with machines.

Let's say for hypothetical reasons, I picked up #6 and applying via D/A. How do you work this stuff? Am I doing a 2x2 section with multiple passes? Better put... what's different regarding technique than using a dedicated polish? I can read all day about X polish, it's work time, on Y OEM paint, and pad choice. Not so much for cleaner waxes.

Basically, I need a cleaner wax to be a faster process so working a somewhat larger section and making fewer passes within a section is crucial to that. If I can't get around the vehicle in a reasonable time... well, you know, profits suffer.

Also regarding pad care... I know removing wax from pads can be a pain. Usually, I dedicate my black/red pads (B&S) to a certain wax/ sealant that they are used with (write name of product on white pad backing.) I know a cleaner wax on a heavily neglected vehicle will add residue to the pad. So...Dawn Power Dissolver, APC soak, and hand wash right after? Dedicate 2-3 pads per vehicle, depending on condition?

Sorry for the length of my post, however, this is a simple topic BUT it's a very important one. Given the value driven nature of my package (read- lowest price) it will probably be the first time a customer has any experience with my services. I'm sure it's the same for a lot of other detailers.

Many thanks for any feedback and further insights.

Best regards,
-Dellinger
 
I started using Klasse AIO (polisher/cleaner/sealant) for my one step product in my "basic" detail package and it seems to work pretty well. I followed this guide for machine application:

Klasse usa ,Klasse Application Guide, How to apply Klasse AIO, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, All-in-one, klasse all-in-one

I am in pretty much the same stage you are with my part time detailing business. I am using this thread (among tons of other info) as a guideline for my services and trying to apply Mike's KISS methods for starting out:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ps-starting-part-time-detailing-business.html

Good luck, hope this helps!
 
Justin, many thanks for the info and links. I appreciate it.
 
Hi Mike, how many passes are you doing with an AIO to complete this whole package in 4 hours? I usually take 1.5-2 hours to wash/clay and dry. Then I do 5-6 passes with a 1 step polish which takes around 4-5 hours to make my way around every panel. I've never actually worked with an AIO and I think this could be very helpful to my packages. So with 2 hours to prep up to the AIO stage, that really only leaves me with another 2 hours to work the AIO in. Only way that makes sense to me is maybe 2 or 3 passes at most. Thanks for your input!
 
Would you guys use a AIO on a cutting pad to give it more power to remove swirls? Or would it creat more? Since AIO abrasives are quite weak it would make sense that a cutting pad would do yep the job? Or would it just creat more swirls? That's why we do test spots huh? :)
 
Would you guys use a AIO on a cutting pad to give it more power to remove swirls? Or would it creat more? Since AIO abrasives are quite weak it would make sense that a cutting pad would do yep the job? Or would it just creat more swirls? That's why we do test spots huh? :)

Depends on what AIO you are using....

D151 isn't weak, and can be used with a variety of pads from MF cutting pads to foam cutting or polishing pads and or finishing pads depending on what you need.

And that's on a Rotary or DA Polisher.
 
What pad and speed depends on a couple of things but in most cases if you're only going to do one-step, or one machine applied product to the paint step, then you want to use a soft polishing pad so your chances of finishing out nice are as best as possible.

As for speed, that depends on the tool and the condition of the paint.

Another HUGE factor when using a one-step to NEGLECTED paint is to use the product heavy or wet. By the words heavy or wet I mean use plenty and even lots of product. Certainly don't under-use product as you want a lot of LIQUID chemical cleaners on the surface going to work for you and also lubricating the surface as you buff.

The talk about applying a THIN coat of wax only applies to "finishing waxes" or "finishing sealants"

  • What type of tool are you using?
  • What are you working on?

Good questions by the way...


:xyxthumbs:

Given the context of this particular post within this thread I was wondering...

1. If your approach would change if you decided to use a paste cleaner wax such as those by Meguiar's, Mothers, Duragloss, etc.? I suppose that's where the word heavy would apply, rather than wet.

2. Do you prefer the liquid products (cleaner waxes) over the pastes? Why?
 
I just found this after looking on a good AIO for my moms vehicle. For my own interest, what are you guys charging for a wash and AIO like what has been explained above?

HUMP
 
Great write up Mike as always.
Just looked at the price,16 bucks for a 12oz bottle.
Definitely worth trying:)
 
Great article Mike as usual. :) :xyxthumbs:

AIO's are great IMO and they are terrific time savers, 3 passes usually per section and move after the test spot and pad choice.

Hit it with an AIO and top it with a spray wax if needed windows and all get paid and move on. I usually hit the windows anyway with a spray wax so it's fast just to cover the whole car quickly.

I use D151 most of the time as the AIO then hit it with D156 and go. Or if it's not bad, no correction wanted or needed I just use M20 and go.

The only difference would be the pads used depending on how bad the paint is, usually the Megs Yellow or LC White Flats or step up to an LC Orange or CYAN if it's bad.
 
Using a cleaner wax is relatively worthless on a daily driver. Very, very little correction. You're just cleaning the paint and making the defects shinier. Not worth the time and effort, IMO.
 
98% from the DD don't actually realize how bad their paint is, but they do know when their car is shiny... that's why cleaner wax do so good when a high volume for low price is wanted.... I know some guys using it and doing pretty good.... and yes, they always use it as a bait to upsell to something better, from time to time it works.
For a top end detailer I agree, doesn't makes any sense, but for the majority out there it's a true smart move.
 
Using a cleaner wax is relatively worthless on a daily driver.

Very, very little correction.

You're just cleaning the paint and making the defects shinier.


I'm completeley lost with your logic/opinion?


What steps and products would in your opinion should be used for a daily driver?




Not worth the time and effort, IMO.

Just to keep things in context since the "pictures" of this detail are quite a ways back in this thread....


Before
This car is in good condition but the paint was oxidized and thus dull and lifeless. It was rough to the feel with contamination as was the exterior glass. A greasy tire dressing was used and it smeared over the white letters staining them black and brown. The chrome was stained with some type of film causing them to look dull instead of bright and shiny.

Oldsmobile_442_W30_001.jpg





After
1970_442_by_Mike_Phillips.008.jpg



1970_442_by_Mike_Phillips.010.jpg


1970_442_by_Mike_Phillips.011.jpg


1970_442_by_Mike_Phillips.012.jpg


1970_442_by_Mike_Phillips.013.jpg




Less than 4 hours and I charged $350.00

:dunno:
 
AIO have there place on every detailers/ car guru's shelf. The majority of my work is AIO jobs.

They can increase the shine and depth of paint, ssuper clean it, and even removed some swirling. It is my best selling package, and I wouldn't get rid of it any day of the year. That is my bread and butter.

All of my customers have been more than happy with the results, and I get many referrals for my AIO package.

From DD to hot rods, they can all use an aio from time to time, IMO.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
I totally agree with Mike Phllips and Ken.

In fact I just did an experiment over the weekend to try out how effective an AIO with polishing pad was.

I purposely 'scour' a test section of my paint with surbuf MF pad to simulate haze and dullness. I then taped half a section and used Megs Color-X as AIO on white LC pads.

After only 2 passes with firm pressure I was amazed how it restored the clarity & glossiness of the paint! Of course RIDS remains but is was a HUGE improvement!

It's my car but I would imagine most people out there will be very happy to see the result.

And yes I did 12.5% IPA wipedown after polishing the paint. :)
 
The difference between paint correction and paint polishing. Polishing is making the appearance drastically better, correcting is fixing every possible blemish.

Most people just want the paint shiny...

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
98% from the DD don't actually realize how bad their paint is, but they do know when their car is shiny... that's why cleaner wax do so good when a high volume for low price is wanted....


Exactly.


This is why I don't understand Mark's logic?


In fact, in the first post of this thread I point out that too often people new to detailing get all caught up in doing a multiple step process, which takes a lot more time, to a mundane daily driver.

They make very little profit and it's the wrong service for this type of customer.

I also included this in the very first post of this thread... the below article really makes it plain that for the masses, that is for the majority of people that will seek out a detailer to detail their car, the right product and the right "service" is to use a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO to do one step to the paint after washing and claying.


Mike Phillips said:
Newbie Mistakes
I see a lot of people new to car detailing that perform multiple step procedures to create a show car finish but at the end of the day have so much time, labor and materials into the job that they end up working for peanuts.

So work smarter, not harder and to do this start by evaluating your customer first and match your services to their needs, not yours. For more information on this topic, see tis article...

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer



I know some guys using it and doing pretty good.... and yes, they always use it as a bait to upsell to something better, from time to time it works.

For a top end detailer I agree, doesn't makes any sense, but for the majority out there it's a true smart move.

Exactly.




AIO have there place on every detailers/ car guru's shelf. The majority of my work is AIO jobs.

They can increase the shine and depth of paint, super clean it, and even removed some swirling. It is my best selling package, and I wouldn't get rid of it any day of the year. That is my bread and butter.

All of my customers have been more than happy with the results, and I get many referrals for my AIO package.

From DD to hot rods, they can all use an AIO from time to time, IMO.


Exactly, couldn't have said it better myself.

Even for simple things like the paint around door jambs, inside the engine compartment or trunk. For these areas a quick wipe with any cleaner/wax will clean up the paint, provide a lot of contrast as compared to how the paint looked before and you can do it with one product in one step.

Boats, Motorhomes and Airplanes are also optimally buffed using a one-step cleaner/wax.

Who wants to go around a boat, motorhome or airplane three times?

  1. Compound and wipe off.
  2. Polish and wipe off.
  3. Seal and wipe off.
That's a lot of buffing and wiping.




I totally agree with Mike Phillips and Ken.

In fact I just did an experiment over the weekend to try out how effective an AIO with polishing pad was.

I purposely 'scour' a test section of my paint with surbuf MF pad to simulate haze and dullness. I then taped half a section and used Megs Color-X as AIO on white LC pads.

After only 2 passes with firm pressure I was amazed how it restored the clarity & glossiness of the paint! Of course RIDS remains but is was a HUGE improvement!

It's my car but I would imagine most people out there will be very happy to see the result.

And yes I did 12.5% IPA wipedown after polishing the paint. :)

There you go....

At our Detailing Boot Camp Class this last weekend we used XMT 360 on the severely neglected paint on an Acura and the owner was floored by the results.



The difference between paint correction and paint polishing. Polishing is making the appearance drastically better, correcting is fixing every possible blemish.

Most people just want the paint shiny...


Exactly. And that's what I point out in this article...


A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer



:)
 
Back
Top