I burn my friend car paint with my PC :(

Speed 6 on the PCXP with a 4" pad is really moving and it can generate a lot of heat pretty quickly. I typically won't go above 4-5 with that small of a pad.

Sorry to hear about what happened though. I'd also agree with the others that the Flex isn't going to help any, as far as safety is concerned.


Did you grab any pics?

I'd also have to agree on the thin Infiniti paint. The 2010 FX35 I just did averaged between 80-90 microns. A 2010 Nissan in the same color was all over the place, but with average readings in the 170+ range.
 
Jhaight11 said:
[URL="http://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000#p/search/4/2XAqpOe9Zt4] - ‪Junkman2000's Channel‬‏[/URL]
watch at around the 6:50 min mark. idk how you burned paint with the xp.
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I don't know why you think you cant burn paint with an XP. Anything spinning on the paint has a chance to burn through it.
 
Dubbin1 said:
I don't know why you think you cant burn paint with an XP. Anything spinning on the paint has a chance to burn through it.
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:iagree: While it's not "easy" to burn through paint with a DA, it's easier than a lot of people make it out to be. Thin paint+small pad+powerful machine+limited knowledge=burned paint
 
RaskyR1 said:
I'd also have to agree on the thin Infiniti paint. The 2010 FX35 I just did averaged between 80-90 microns. A 2010 Nissan in the same color was all over the place, but with average readings in the 170+ range.
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I'm surprised with 170+ readings. I have a 2009 Altima and only averages in the high 90's. And this was after removing the plastic. In other words, brand new and before polishing. Goes to show you that there is no consistentcy with factory paint.
 
Rsurfer said:
I'm surprised with 170+ readings. I have a 2009 Altima and only averages in the high 90's. And this was after removing the plastic. In other words, brand new and before polishing. Goes to show you that there is no consistentcy with factory paint.
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The owner was from Canada so maybe it was built in a different plant?
 
sorry to hear about your mishap, just chalk it up to a lesson learned and hopefully it won't happen again. this is why i laugh (not towards you) when i hear people say that you can't do any damage with the PC (just less likely). any tool/machine can caused damage depending on how it's used...
 
RaskyR1 said:
The owner was from Canada so maybe it was built in a different plant?
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Guess I should have bought my car in Canada. LOL When I got the car I was going to wet sand the hood and truck because of the heavy orange peel. Glad I waited til I got my paint gauge. Now I just use glazes to hide the minor swirls.
 
Rsurfer said:
You burned your paint using a 3" Griot DA? Please explain how.Feed back please
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My 3" Griots barely moves on anything other than 6 if I put any pressure on it. How did you do that?

Tim
 
Rsurfer said:
You burned your paint using a 3" Griot DA? Please explain how.Feed back please
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I was just trying to work over a small area and the scratch was deep so I elected to use my 4" Surbuf with Meg's UC. After just two little section passes I began to notice silver paint on the edge of the pad and stopped working it. The funny thing about it is that the area where I burned the paint is just as thick as a neighboring area that still has its clear. After taking it to three body men they pointed out that the panel was repainted and very poorly done at that. They also pointed out an area on the an adjacent panel that the clear was peeling off at (I hadn't previously noticed it). I'm attributing the fact that I burned through the paint so easily to the poor bodywork that was previously done. There's no way I wouldn't have went through a factory clear with the way I was working. So I elected to have one of those body guys repaint the panels that were poorly painted.
 
Flannigan said:
Infiniti's are known for having extremely thin paint. I have not personally seen one, but I know of several detailers who have gotten paint readings in the low 80's on brand new infinitis. This is a perfect example of why a paint gauge should be in everyone's tool box that does paint correction regardless of the tool.

As far as disliking the PC, what pads do you use? A PC DA can be a very good tool to remove swirls if you use the right pads and polish. SIP is not a compound, and it's not going to remove tons of defects, especially on an orange pad. If you want to step it up you need to get a compound like M105 and a surbuf pad or the Megs MF pads. Pad technology has come so far in the past couple years that there is no reason your DA shouldn't remove all but the deepest swirls and RIDS.

Also if you are worried about burning paint with your DA, you are going to have to be even more careful with the Flex DA since it does have more power. You should get comfortable with the easiest tool before you move up the chain. Just my .02
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Yup, I wouldn't blame the PC and 4" pad, as I've even used 4" cutting pads on the PC full blast with no problems ever.

Nissan/Infinity are known for thin, relatively weak paint. Chip and scratch/mar easy as hell.
 
That sucks, sorry to hear about it.

It really does annoy me that new cars are coming from the factory with thinner and thinner paint. You can see it with rockchips, especially on modern Lexus cars, that thin waterbased paint can't take any sort of punishment, and it's incredibly soft too.
 
mcpp66 said:
I was just trying to work over a small area and the scratch was deep so I elected to use my 4" Surbuf with Meg's UC. After just two little section passes I began to notice silver paint on the edge of the pad and stopped working it. The funny thing about it is that the area where I burned the paint is just as thick as a neighboring area that still has its clear. After taking it to three body men they pointed out that the panel was repainted and very poorly done at that. They also pointed out an area on the an adjacent panel that the clear was peeling off at (I hadn't previously noticed it). I'm attributing the fact that I burned through the paint so easily to the poor bodywork that was previously done. There's no way I wouldn't have went through a factory clear with the way I was working. So I elected to have one of those body guys repaint the panels that were poorly painted.
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Well that makes it more realistic. Your original post made it sound like the Griot 3" was a rotary.
 
Tip of the Day:

If you see smoke coming from your pad, back off :idea:
 
EdmundGTP said:
It's a recommended combo according to the menzerna compound chart? :dunno:

Ive used it before myself a few times with good results.
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Thanks, man. I've always used Menz Intensive w/ white pad and usually, but not always, I've been super excited w/ the results. I'm working on a red Civic right now. I had to go to Megs 105 & orange pad to get rid of the swrils & scratches, followed by Menz Intensive on white pad. I'll try your combo.
 
Thanks for everyone advise, today, i took my friend to the auto bodyshop to repaint his door, it cost me almost 700 dollar. My trip to Hawaii have to delay or cancel:(
 
ChineseGuy said:
Thanks for everyone advise, today, i took my friend to the auto bodyshop to repaint his door, it cost me almost 700 dollar. My trip to Hawaii have to delay or cancel:(
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Sorry that happened to you Chineese guy.

How many section passes had you done ?
 
buddhadog said:
Sorry that happened to you Chineese guy.

How many section passes had you done ?
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I only did 2 section passes, maybe the clear coat is too thin. I know that the 4 ich pad is more powerful than the 5.5ich , so i did the section pass quickly and try to avoid it generate any heat on the surface.However, it burn the paint. It was a expensive lesson for me to understand Infinity has a very thin clearcoat. Anyway, life moves on.
 
Flannigan said:
Infiniti's are known for having extremely thin paint. I have not personally seen one, but I know of several detailers who have gotten paint readings in the low 80's on brand new infinitis. This is a perfect example of why a paint gauge should be in everyone's tool box that does paint correction regardless of the tool.

As far as disliking the PC, what pads do you use? A PC DA can be a very good tool to remove swirls if you use the right pads and polish. SIP is not a compound, and it's not going to remove tons of defects, especially on an orange pad. If you want to step it up you need to get a compound like M105 and a surbuf pad or the Megs MF pads. Pad technology has come so far in the past couple years that there is no reason your DA shouldn't remove all but the deepest swirls and RIDS.

Also if you are worried about burning paint with your DA, you are going to have to be even more careful with the Flex DA since it does have more power. You should get comfortable with the easiest tool before you move up the chain. Just my .02
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I use the 5.5 ich LC CCS orange pad for compound, white for polish, grey for final polish and wax by hand. I have tried the M105, and i think M105 is hard to work on, because it dries easily and dusting problem as well. Yep, you are right, i shouldn`t blame the PC, maybe i should get a paint thickness gauge instead a Flex.
 
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