Iron Removers?

Supergus1

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Has anyone done a comparison between Optimum FerreX, Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller, and Iron X? They are all pretty comparable in price but "there can be only one".
 
Meguiar's "Dub" color-changing product has a
more favorable price tag than those you listed.


Bob
 
Meguiar's "Dub" color-changing product has a
more favorable price tag than those you listed.


Bob
Bob,
Isn't the color changing product a wheel cleaner? Not sure if it's paint safe?
 
Bob,
Isn't the color changing product a wheel cleaner?
Not sure if it's paint safe?
•Knowng that Meguiar's makes this product for the
Joe Lunch Bucket Consumer market;
-Then...therefore:
This DUB product's advertisement/usage would be
geared toward that specific Consumer market base.

Just a thought:
-Aren't many wheels clear-coated?
-Isn't clear-coat classified as a paint?


FWIW:
IronX, for example, is also used to "clean" wheels.


Bob
 
•Knowng that Meguiar's makes this product for the
Joe Lunch Bucket Consumer market;
-Then...therefore:
This DUB product's advertisement/usage would be
geared toward that specific Consumer market base.

Just a thought:
-Aren't many wheels clear-coated?
-Isn't clear-coat classified as a paint?


FWIW:
IronX, for example, is also used to "clean" wheels.


Bob

Yes, but not all wheel cleaners are great paint cleaners. For example, Sonax Full Effect does a rather bad job on paint while it works well on wheels. Who is to say that Dub Wheel Cleaner will perform well on paint?
 
when in doubt, the one that has a proven track record would be iron-x. all the carpro products i've used have been top notch...
 
In theory, all these bleeding iron removers are based around a single active ingredient. Unfortunately, it is not as simple as that. IX is the original and basically that is THE active it uses. Others have come along and used lower levels (it is extremely expensive!) and tried to bluff people. Others still have gone with using lower levels and trying to compensate with other actives which do a similar job, without the bleed, but are massively cheaper.

One thing that I think is worth noting is that our regulatory interpretation is that IX is as strong as you can reasonably make such a product, without putting yourself into a position where the product should really have a 'toxic' hazard associated with it.

My recollection from data sheets is that the megs and sonax products simply are not as concentrated as IX.
 
In theory, all these bleeding iron removers are based around a single active ingredient. Unfortunately, it is not as simple as that. IX is the original and basically that is THE active it uses. Others have come along and used lower levels (it is extremely expensive!) and tried to bluff people. Others still have gone with using lower levels and trying to compensate with other actives which do a similar job, without the bleed, but are massively cheaper.

One thing that I think is worth noting is that our regulatory interpretation is that IX is as strong as you can reasonably make such a product, without putting yourself into a position where the product should really have a 'toxic' hazard associated with it.

My recollection from data sheets is that the megs and sonax products simply are not as concentrated as IX.

PiPUK, please may I tap into your chemical knowledge for a second.... is the ingredient that actually 'dissolves' the iron, the same ingredient that makes it change purple/red (or is this another ingredient all together, and if so, does it in any way alter the efficacy of the product).

The reason I ask is I was given a sample of an unknown (to me) iron remover to test. I sprayed half a wheel with AF Iron Out and the other half with this sample. The sample side had almost no bleeding whereas the AF product obviously did bleed.

Then I rinsed and resprayed the entire wheel with AF Iron out and both sides then bled equally, leading me to believe that although the sample iron remover never actually showed any signs of 'bleeding', it still removed the same amount of iron as the AF Iron out.

Personally I like the visual indicator that the color changing ingredient has, as it let's you know how much contamination is left on the surface but am curious as to how it all works.

Thanks in advance and apologies to the OP for the thread hijack
 
I had use iron x with excellent result.
I also notice this tacsystem Korea site which look interesting :D

Regards
 
I realize IronX is the most potent iron remover on the market, but I loathe cleaning wheels with it because it doesn't foam up or have any "lube" to it when you agitate it.

I much prefer using Dub or ColourTec for wheels.

For paint I prefer AF Iron Out or Iron X.
 
I may be in a different boat, but I usually clean the wheels with a wheel cleaner or P21S Total Auto Wash first and then go back and use Iron X or Iron Out after to pull any embedded iron particles. Maybe I am different.

HUMP
 
DUB works great on paint. This is on a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. I'm fairly certain it had never had a fallout remover used on it, and I had this on hand, so I tried it.

 
I appreciate the replies everyone. Let me just clarify that I would be applying the product on my paint. I wasn't necessarily talking about wheels. Thanks again.
 
I've used all 3, and I think I like carpro ferrex the best. It definitely smells the best out of the 3 and is less expensive as well. They all perform pretty much the same, and all work very well. The dodo juice triggers on their small bottles are a joke though, and all have since broke.
 
I've used all 3, and I think I like carpro ferrex the best. It definitely smells the best out of the 3 and is less expensive as well. They all perform pretty much the same, and all work very well. The dodo juice triggers on their small bottles are a joke though, and all have since broke.
Did you mean to say you like Carpro IronX or Optimum FerreX the best?
 
PiPUK, please may I tap into your chemical knowledge for a second.... is the ingredient that actually 'dissolves' the iron, the same ingredient that makes it change purple/red (or is this another ingredient all together, and if so, does it in any way alter the efficacy of the product).

The same ingredient does the dissolving and the colour change. This active ingredient is colourless when in the form supplied but the purple/red when it combines with the iron. In actual fact, this is a recognised test for the presence of iron in chemical testing.

A product like this SHOULD change colour in the presence of iron (I should note, that it is only specific forms of the iron!), that is simply how the active ingredient works. A lack of colour change should indicate that there is no iron present, that something is blocking the active ingredient getting to the iron, or there is something else in there which is also acting on the iron but has a stronger bond to the iron that the 'smelly' active. The 'blocking' could be some sort of film or something over the surface and the product itself is not sufficient to break this down (this would strike me as strange). The additional components possibility would not surprise me. I know that Sonax, for instance, uses other ingredients which would also dissolve iron. Personally, I think that this is a bit of a questionable approach. Yes, those other additives are going to be massively cheaper (like 10 times, or more) but the limitation on the bleed can end up with users questioning effectiveness. So, in the end, such a product is actually trying to use the bleeding active as a secondary element so you are, indeed, ending up with a product which is, functionally, a NON-bleeding cleaner with a bit of additive in there to try to make it bleed. I am not saying that is the case with any specific product but it strikes me as highly plausible that a product which proves very effective in removing the iron yet which claims to be 'bleeding' and proves to bleed rather little, may well be of this type.
 
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