Is there and easier way to remove artillary fungus?

I hope i never hafto remove artillary fungus ..
 
I have not personally encountered this issue but below is what TOGWT suggests.

togwt said:
Artillery Fungus
Small black specks (artillery fungus); these resemble asphalt (tar) spots but could be the spore of artillery fungus (Sphaerobolus) they look very much like tar spots and are usually about 1/10th-inch in diameter. The term artillery refers to the fact that the fungus actively uses energy to shoot its spore masses, sort of like cannon (an artillery piece). It is a fungus that lives in wood-based mulch, the spores are usually shot only a short distance (several feet) but the wind can carry them for longer distances.
They can be removed by using a chemical paint cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One) or plastic razor blade to scrape and remove the spot. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated each time it comes into contact with water.
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daveo said:
FK Decontamination Kit?
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Are these hard to use? Are they expensive?

MotorCity Honda said:
I have not personally encountered this issue but below is what TOGWT suggests.
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KAIO doesn't work. IDK if the vehicle was exposed a long time or what, but these had to be sanded. The majority came off with clay, but a mark the exact size and shape of the projectile was left that could not be felt with a fingernail.
 
Even worse news... the spores are shot towards bright spots... like light color'd house siding.... and the suns reflection off your perfectly polished car
 
How about Meg's red clay (or other aggressive clay) followed up by a compound such as Menz Power Finish or M105, then a normal polish after that?

I am just thinking the car probably has other issues as well as the fungus - try to get it all corrected in as few steps as possible?

Don't personally have any experience with the stuff.

DLB
 
Just came across this thread. Thought I'd share a bit on how I get rid of these spots. I'm over in New Hampshire...and I'm not sure if it's just more common around here, but I see a LOT of artillery fungus around here.

To my knowledge, there's nothing that can be done during prep/washing that will help, or rid of these spots. So, going about a normal wash will do.

For me, it's ALL in the claying process. Claying will not remove all of these spots. It will though, remove the ones that have not had time to "cure" per say to the paint. The veterans of the group...will need to be clayed to remove the "head/nub", then agitated with your finger nail to break into what seems to be an inner layer of the fungus.

Once you see the layer break (you will see the stain break apart, or change in shape), you can either continue with your nail till it's gone, or clay.

From my experience, it's VERY time consuming. You can clay for well up to 2-3 hours or more in severe situations.

Tips for faster removal:

- Get your mind right, ha. Seriously though, this requires a calm mental state, and great patience. Keep it cool, and just keep moving. Once that step is over...it's smooth sailing.

- Using APC will help break the stains down for a faster claying process. But, expect to be tossing that clay bar afterwards, cause the APC will probably soften it to a useless glob.

- You may laugh...but I always keep my thumb finger nails not perfectly groomed. Sounds absolutely ridiculous...but that little bit of nail will save your life, and move things along real quick. I've done so much of this now...that I actually think of this when I'm cutting my nails, ha.

- Attack the worst panels first. You'll be glad you did down the road.


That's all I can think of right now. I just wanted to chime in...cause I do see this quite a bit. If you can avoid ever doing it all together...more power to ya! lol
 
May be a far cry. Would wd40 work?
I have no clue but suggesting because it has so Many uses
 
Kristopher1129 said:
Just came across this thread. Thought I'd share a bit on how I get rid of these spots. I'm over in New Hampshire...and I'm not sure if it's just more common around here, but I see a LOT of artillery fungus around here.

To my knowledge, there's nothing that can be done during prep/washing that will help, or rid of these spots. So, going about a normal wash will do.

For me, it's ALL in the claying process. Claying will not remove all of these spots. It will though, remove the ones that have not had time to "cure" per say to the paint. The veterans of the group...will need to be clayed to remove the "head/nub", then agitated with your finger nail to break into what seems to be an inner layer of the fungus.

Once you see the layer break (you will see the stain break apart, or change in shape), you can either continue with your nail till it's gone, or clay.

From my experience, it's VERY time consuming. You can clay for well up to 2-3 hours or more in severe situations.

Tips for faster removal:

- Get your mind right, ha. Seriously though, this requires a calm mental state, and great patience. Keep it cool, and just keep moving. Once that step is over...it's smooth sailing.

- Using APC will help break the stains down for a faster claying process. But, expect to be tossing that clay bar afterwards, cause the APC will probably soften it to a useless glob.

- You may laugh...but I always keep my thumb finger nails not perfectly groomed. Sounds absolutely ridiculous...but that little bit of nail will save your life, and move things along real quick. I've done so much of this now...that I actually think of this when I'm cutting my nails, ha.

- Attack the worst panels first. You'll be glad you did down the road.


That's all I can think of right now. I just wanted to chime in...cause I do see this quite a bit. If you can avoid ever doing it all together...more power to ya! lol
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Very good tips Kris. When I was working at dealership, we would see a lot of artillery fungus. It is very time consuming, we would use the most aggressive clay (purple) and just go to town with it. If a car is heavily contaminated we would have two people working on it. And if claying didn't remove most of it we would use out thumb to remove what ever left. Then we used M105 to even out the paint.

If there is something else that can make this process easier let us know! :props:
 
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If you don't want to get artillery fungus don't park next to mulch beds. That is where the majority of it comes from. I use clay and my finger nail to remove them.
 
Chris, these things are a cursed spawn of evil. I use a bug and tar sponge with Tar X. The ones that don't come out I use my fingernail.

Well, as a matter if fact only one vehicle I have dealt with had it all over one side but that was what I did. Worked well. Just attacked them one at a time.


Da Fats said:
Even worse news... the spores are shot towards bright spots... like light color'd house siding.... and the suns reflection off your perfectly polished car
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Exactly right!
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Are these hard to use? Are they expensive?

The FK system is a little stronger, acid wise, than AI's de-con system.....Not hard to use (just follow directions)...Perhaps the kits, or certain elements of them, may have some effect on the spores.

Once removed...It's the spores "staining" they leave behind that's also a PITA, IMO.

But I was thinking: Aren't artillery fungus spores an above/atop the surface paint contaminates?


KAIO doesn't work. IDK if the vehicle was exposed a long time or what, but these had to be sanded. The majority came off with clay, but a mark the exact size and shape of the projectile was left that could not be felt with a fingernail.
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Hi Chris...

Another info source:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...83-black-spots-my-truck-artillary-fungus.html

:)

Bob
 
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