Is there any hope for this paint??

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mastrjeff1

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Mike-

The single stage paint job on the hood of my '91 Mustang looks extremely oxidized (please see attached photo). I used Megs No. 7 on it, and it looked absolutely stunning until the next morning (it rained and I didn't use any LSP, so I don't know if that caused it). The oxidation (or whatever you call that white film) came back, but not as bad. I noticed that one part of it that I really worked the polish into with a lot of pressure looked better than the rest, but still not as good as right after the initial application. I'm not sure if the paint has become "unstable" or not. Any tips? Also, would it be more beneficial to use a PC 7424 to really work in the polish good and let it sit for a while (as per your article on restoring single stage paint jobs), or does it have to be by hand? Thanks in advance!
 
I would certainly say that there is some hope left for it.

However, you'll need to use a real polish to get rid of that oxidation. No. 7 is a glaze with fillers and minor polishing abilities. Try M105/M205 or Meguiars D151. They should have it looking brand new :)
 
cobalt9123 said:
I would certainly say that there is some hope left for it.

However, you'll need to use a real polish to get rid of that oxidation. No. 7 is a glaze with fillers and minor polishing abilities. Try M105/M205 or Meguiars D151. They should have it looking brand new :)
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I'll try those two products. It's worth a shot, especially since it is the original paint job. I would hate to have a non-original paint job since the car is immaculate, other than the paint, and only has 30k on the clock. Really hope that does the trick... Thanks for your input.
 
Yes, from what I can see it is savable....

Meguiar's #7 is a great product but this is a glaze. Glazes contain oils and fillers that "temporarily" fill minor defects and offers no protection at all, thus the reason for the overnight change.

What you should be using is something like Meguiar's M105 and Meguiar's M205.

Use a Lake Country Yellow 5 1/2" Flat Pad with Meguiar's M105 on a speed of 5. Work on a 2' X 2' section using a crisscross pattern and work the section. Do this over the entire hood then switch to an orange pad and repeat.

Use a Lake Country White 5 1/2" Flat Pad with Meguiar's M205 on a speed of 5. Work on a 2' X 2' section using a crisscross pattern and work the section. Do this over the entire hood the change to a gray pad and repeat.

This is basically working the panel from course to fine so that the panel finishes glassy smooth.
 
mastrjeff1 said:
I'll try those two products. It's worth a shot, especially since it is the original paint job. I would hate to have a non-original paint job since the car is immaculate, other than the paint, and only has 30k on the clock. Really hope that does the trick... Thanks for your input.
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No problem :props:

Meg's No. 7 is mostly oil and fillers. That is probably why you saw an improvement in your paint and then a return to its original state the next morning.

When a real polish is used, it will actually remove a thin layer of the oxidized paint. If you use the M105/205 combo with a PC7424XP, Griot's Garage Dual Action, or even by hand (though I SERIOUSLY suggest you use a dual-action polisher instead) and regular waxing, it is likely that you will wake up to a gleaming paint job better than new every morning Im the MAN



Feel free to research as much as you want on pads and polishers as there are mountains of information on them here, but if I were you and just starting out, I'd suggest this for restoring your hood and front bumper:

Griot's Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher, Dual action buffer, DA polisher
(Griot's Garage Buffer)
lake country 5 inch backing plate, 5 inch backin plate, 5 inch hook and loop backing plate
(5" Backing Plate used to hold foam pads of 5.5" diameter)
Lake Country Hydro-Tech 5.5 x 1.25 Inch Foam Pads, hydrotech foam buffing pads, dual action foam pads
(Lake Country Hydrotech Pads; I'd suggest pairing M105 with Cyan pads and following with M205 with Tangerine pads)
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound 32 oz. New D.A. Version
(Meguiar's M105 Compound)
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish, final polish, Meguiars polishes, car polish, 205 FP
(Meguiar's M205 Polish)

Autogeek is also running a pretty good special on these items right now so you'll get a pretty good deal on them :props:

Good luck, and make sure you check out these helpful articles and videos before attempting!

Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate,

Auto detailing clay, detail clay bar, clay lubricant, Pinnacle Poly Clay, Wolfgang, auto detail clay, meguiar's detailing clay, auto clay bar
 
Yes there is hope! It's going to look amazing when you get it done.
 
BobbyG said:
Yes, from what I can see it is savable....

Meguiar's #7 is a great product but this is a glaze. Glazes contain oils and fillers that "temporarily" fill minor defects and offers no protection at all, thus the reason for the overnight change.

What you should be using is something like Meguiar's M105 and Meguiar's M205.

Use a Lake Country Yellow 5 1/2" Flat Pad with Meguiar's M105 on a speed of 5. Work on a 2' X 2' section using a crisscross pattern and work the section. Do this over the entire hood then switch to an orange pad and repeat.

Use a Lake Country White 5 1/2" Flat Pad with Meguiar's M205 on a speed of 5. Work on a 2' X 2' section using a crisscross pattern and work the section. Do this over the entire hood the change to a gray pad and repeat.

This is basically working the panel from course to fine so that the panel finishes glassy smooth.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply. I have the lake country pads, but they are CCS pads. I have a set of flat pads that came with the buffer, though. I have the gray one for the final application, but I'm not sure if the other three are the ones I need. One is orange and says Medium Polish, the other is green and says polish, and there is a blue one that says glaze/final polish. Can I use the CCS pads, or should I try with the flat pads I have? Here is the link to the pads I have (I don't have the yellow one, though): 5 Pack: Uber Foam Pad 5.5 inch . Thank you!!!
 
This comes from a rank amateur, but you should be good with the flat pads you have. Use the 105 with the orange pad and finish with the 205 on the green.
Of course, as Mike says, use the least aggresive method, so maybe start with the green / 205 and see what you get.
Use the M7 with the gray pad and then top with the LSP of your choice.
 
Should easily be able to buff that out nicely. How, and what you use is entirely up to you. There's mulitple ways to go about it. I would set up some test spots and take the least aggressive route. Just make sure you end with a nice sealant. :dblthumb2:
 
soonervette said:
This comes from a rank amateur, but you should be good with the flat pads you have. Use the 105 with the orange pad and finish with the 205 on the green.
Of course, as Mike says, use the least aggresive method, so maybe start with the green / 205 and see what you get.
Use the M7 with the gray pad and then top with the LSP of your choice.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to look over my post. I will try getting the M105 and M205 tomorrow and using the pads as you suggested. Thanks again!
 
mastrjeff1 said:
Thanks for taking the time to look over my post. I will try getting the M105 and M205 tomorrow and using the pads as you suggested. Thanks again!
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I really don't think 105 is necessary in this case. You don't want to strip too much paint off being that it's single stage. The oxidation is just dead paint.

You should be fine with 205, or even just Megs #7. Just make sure you put a good sealant on cause #7, or 205 offer no protection.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I really don't think 105 is necessary in this case. You don't want to strip too much paint off being that it's single stage. The oxidation is just dead paint.

You should be fine with 205, or even just Megs #7. Just make sure you put a good sealant on cause #7, or 205 offer no protection.
Click to expand...

This is a very good point. Two things you'll need to do before the whole hood:

1-Do a test spot
2-Start with the least aggressive polish first

Since you already tried No.7, I'd say start with M205 and a tangerine pad. I think you'll be fine with this level of aggressiveness.


The M205 may very well get rid of your oxidation, however, a test spot will answer better for you than any of us can speculate :)
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I really don't think 105 is necessary in this case. You don't want to strip too much paint off being that it's single stage. The oxidation is just dead paint.

You should be fine with 205, or even just Megs #7. Just make sure you put a good sealant on cause #7, or 205 offer no protection.
Click to expand...

cobalt9123 said:
This is a very good point. Two things you'll need to do before the whole hood:

1-Do a test spot
2-Start with the least aggressive polish first

Since you already tried No.7, I'd say start with M205 and a tangerine pad. I think you'll be fine with this level of aggressiveness.


The M205 may very well get rid of your oxidation, however, a test spot will answer better for you than any of us can speculate :)
Click to expand...

Yes, I will try M205 first. Thank you very much.
 
cobalt9123 said:
This is a very good point. Two things you'll need to do before the whole hood:

1-Do a test spot
2-Start with the least aggressive polish first

Since you already tried No.7, I'd say start with M205 and a tangerine pad. I think you'll be fine with this level of aggressiveness.

The M205 may very well get rid of your oxidation, however, a test spot will answer better for you than any of us can speculate :)
Click to expand...

I'm with him :iagree:
 
I got the M105 nd M205 from Albert Kemperle this morning for $50. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for everyone's help!
 
For single stage paint it would be much better to go with M80 and not M205. M80 has about the same cut as m205 but it contains the same polishing oils as M07 so you are killing two birds with one stone(polishing and feeding). For single stage paints my combo has always been M95/M80. Single stage paints tends to be dry because it is much more porous than BC/CC paints, so I find that m95/m80 are both so high in oils that there is usually more than enough lubrication in them even if the paint absorbs some of the carrier lube from the polishes.

M105 is not always the case for single stage paints. Because of its short work time and low amount of carrier oils/solvents it is not always a good choice for highly oxidized paints as M105 would dry out much faster from the paints leaching effects.
 
I buffed everything out wit the blue pad and M205 (didn't even need the M105). Heres the final result (before and after). I just hope it doesn't come back again! I will know by tomorrow if it will come back, but I'm pretty sure this will solve it. Thank you for all your help!
 
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