WRAPT C5Z06
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- Nov 12, 2009
- 12,615
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- #21
Exactly what I was thinking at the time.
Is this polish induced marring?!?! *{
- Thread starter WRAPT C5Z06
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TLMitchell
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- Oct 1, 2008
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Wow, your post does wonders for me.rops: I was getting really frustrated.
Look at the money you'll save on therapy if you keep the Brinkmann in the kitchen for power outages. :nomore:
TL
Great thread. This is very similar to what I see on the trunk lid of my "new" 2010 Camaro. I'm certain these ultra fine micro swirls are rotary induced, because they are PERFECT in simmetry. I'll have to send the dealership a thank you card.
I have tried my DA with a Meguiar's burgundy pad with Ultimate Compound and finished with a Meguiar's yellow pad and Swirlx, but they are still there under the right light. My hood and top are flawless with the same treatment so I'm thinking this was a dealer add-on for a scratch they attacked with a rotary.
I have tried my DA with a Meguiar's burgundy pad with Ultimate Compound and finished with a Meguiar's yellow pad and Swirlx, but they are still there under the right light. My hood and top are flawless with the same treatment so I'm thinking this was a dealer add-on for a scratch they attacked with a rotary.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Couple of comments...
If swirls are inflicted using a rotary buffer they will usually show up in in bright sunlight following some kind of pattern equal to the way the rotary buffer was moved over the paint.
Rotary Buffer Swirls, also called Rotary Buffer Trails and/or Holograms, are actually circular scratches in the paint and how deep or how shallow they are will depend upon,
While it can be hard in some geographical locations during some periods of time in a calendar year to have "bright sunlight overhead", if possible, inspect the paint using bright overhead sunlight and the sun will expose the swirl pattern like this,
When we talk about "Marring" on detailing discussion forums, this is usually connected to the tiny scratches or tick marks that are inflicted by the combination of oscillating action, foam formula and abrasives by DA Polishers. It's usually not in a pattern like you see with rotary buffer swirls but there can be a pattern or trail of haze following the direction the polisher was moved over the paint. Again, this is really best seen under bright sunlight and some artificial lights. It is easiest to detect when looking at a large, flat panel even though the problem can be on any portion of a painted panel. (It's just easier to see on the hood for example)
This is why it's so important that you do a TEST SPOT to any car pant that you have never worked on before to find and and make sure that the product you're using, the polisher you're using, the pads you're using and YOUR TECHNIQUE are working in a positive way to remove defect AND leave the paint looking GREAT. And if it's not, then you'll be so thankful you only worked on a small section and from this point forward you can start experimenting with different,
I don't have a picture of marring in this thread yet, but I'll try to get one today on our black testing panel.
Tracers Tracers - RIDS - Pigtails - Cobweb Swirls - Rotary Buffer Swirls - Holograms - Water Spots - Bird Drooping Etchings - Micro-Marring
Another factor that can affect how any specific paint system is polishing-out or not polishing-out is the paint itself.
Some paints are more polishable than others and you won't really ever find this out until you start doing some testing.
If a paint is very soft, soft enough that gentle wiping will induce toweling marks, then no matter what you do this paint is going to be hard to polish out 100% clear and defect free because anytime you touch it you leave a mark.
One trick I've used that has worked for me is after removing the defects and polishing the paint to the smoothest, highest gloss possible is to then get a very slick wax laid down to make the surface slick and dry. Cleaner/Waxes and Cleaner/Sealants tend to dry very fast and leave a dry, hard shine, it's a different type of shine than a WOWO wax or sealant will leave behind, it's not as wet looking but instead very bright with a hard shine. Not sure how else to explain it.
In the past whenever I've come across paint like this I've used the Meguiar's M20 Polymer Sealant and it's worked every time that I can remember.
Apply a thin coat, allow it to fully dry till it Swipes Clear and then remove very gently using your softest, microfiber polishing towels. When applied using a light, or thin coating, M20 wipes off incredibly easy.
After the M20 has been removed, you will have a hard, dry, slick shine that will resist toweling marks.
Later if you like you can top it with a finishing wax. If possible, try to wait for 12 to 24 hours to let the polymers fully set-up otherwise applying a new wet product as the act of rubbing a wet product with some type of application material can disrupt the polymers that have not fully set up.
Don't know if this is too deep but there you go....
I've recently created a listing of all the "Paint Protection Products" Autogeek carries and you can find the M20 listed there under Hybrid Cleaner Waxes/Sealants
A good topper would be something like Pinnacle Souveran in the Finishing Waxes category or Wolfgang Fusion in the Hybrid Finishing Waxes/Sealants
category. Or any of the products in the Finishing Waxes, Finishing Sealants or Finishing Hybrid categories.
Here's the link to the thread,
How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project
If swirls are inflicted using a rotary buffer they will usually show up in in bright sunlight following some kind of pattern equal to the way the rotary buffer was moved over the paint.
Rotary Buffer Swirls, also called Rotary Buffer Trails and/or Holograms, are actually circular scratches in the paint and how deep or how shallow they are will depend upon,
- The pad used
- The abrasives used
- The downward pressure applied to the buffer
While it can be hard in some geographical locations during some periods of time in a calendar year to have "bright sunlight overhead", if possible, inspect the paint using bright overhead sunlight and the sun will expose the swirl pattern like this,
When we talk about "Marring" on detailing discussion forums, this is usually connected to the tiny scratches or tick marks that are inflicted by the combination of oscillating action, foam formula and abrasives by DA Polishers. It's usually not in a pattern like you see with rotary buffer swirls but there can be a pattern or trail of haze following the direction the polisher was moved over the paint. Again, this is really best seen under bright sunlight and some artificial lights. It is easiest to detect when looking at a large, flat panel even though the problem can be on any portion of a painted panel. (It's just easier to see on the hood for example)
This is why it's so important that you do a TEST SPOT to any car pant that you have never worked on before to find and and make sure that the product you're using, the polisher you're using, the pads you're using and YOUR TECHNIQUE are working in a positive way to remove defect AND leave the paint looking GREAT. And if it's not, then you'll be so thankful you only worked on a small section and from this point forward you can start experimenting with different,
- Pads
- Products
- Techniques
- Sometimes tools - depends upon whether you have more than one polisher
I don't have a picture of marring in this thread yet, but I'll try to get one today on our black testing panel.
Tracers Tracers - RIDS - Pigtails - Cobweb Swirls - Rotary Buffer Swirls - Holograms - Water Spots - Bird Drooping Etchings - Micro-Marring
Another factor that can affect how any specific paint system is polishing-out or not polishing-out is the paint itself.
Some paints are more polishable than others and you won't really ever find this out until you start doing some testing.
If a paint is very soft, soft enough that gentle wiping will induce toweling marks, then no matter what you do this paint is going to be hard to polish out 100% clear and defect free because anytime you touch it you leave a mark.
One trick I've used that has worked for me is after removing the defects and polishing the paint to the smoothest, highest gloss possible is to then get a very slick wax laid down to make the surface slick and dry. Cleaner/Waxes and Cleaner/Sealants tend to dry very fast and leave a dry, hard shine, it's a different type of shine than a WOWO wax or sealant will leave behind, it's not as wet looking but instead very bright with a hard shine. Not sure how else to explain it.
In the past whenever I've come across paint like this I've used the Meguiar's M20 Polymer Sealant and it's worked every time that I can remember.
Apply a thin coat, allow it to fully dry till it Swipes Clear and then remove very gently using your softest, microfiber polishing towels. When applied using a light, or thin coating, M20 wipes off incredibly easy.
After the M20 has been removed, you will have a hard, dry, slick shine that will resist toweling marks.
Later if you like you can top it with a finishing wax. If possible, try to wait for 12 to 24 hours to let the polymers fully set-up otherwise applying a new wet product as the act of rubbing a wet product with some type of application material can disrupt the polymers that have not fully set up.
Don't know if this is too deep but there you go....
I've recently created a listing of all the "Paint Protection Products" Autogeek carries and you can find the M20 listed there under Hybrid Cleaner Waxes/Sealants
A good topper would be something like Pinnacle Souveran in the Finishing Waxes category or Wolfgang Fusion in the Hybrid Finishing Waxes/Sealants
category. Or any of the products in the Finishing Waxes, Finishing Sealants or Finishing Hybrid categories.
Here's the link to the thread,
How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project