McKee's 360

[DetailZeus]

what pads are you guys using? maybe too abrasive and it's wearing off the protectant? I've only used the green AIO CCS pads.

Just your basic LC white flat pads, and I'm laying it down heavy.

 

[Belo]

Just your basic LC white flat pads, and I'm laying it down heavy.

I wonder if that's why we see the discrepancy. I know many use a white pad for an AIO, and it shouldn't be an issue. Using a less aggressive pad like the green maybe I'm "saving" some protectant and with the white you're burning more of it off? I have no idea how the science behind an AIO works, but it's interesting to note, maybe that's the variable.

 

[Eldorado2k]

what pads are you guys using? maybe too abrasive and it's wearing off the protectant? I've only used the green AIO CCS pads.

I wonder if that's why we see the discrepancy. I know many use a white pad for an AIO, and it shouldn't be an issue. Using a less aggressive pad like the green maybe I'm "saving" some protectant and with the white you're burning more of it off? I have no idea how the science behind an AIO works, but it's interesting to note, maybe that's the variable.

I used a Red foam finishing pad which is equivalent to a Lake Country Black pad. Soft and Little to no cut. I also applied plenty of the 360. 3 separate sections for just half the roof.

I did everything except bless the panel with holy water and even then I still doubt it would’ve beaded water after 2 weeks.

 

[Mikem3574]

IME trying to immediately top an AIO with a dedicated liquid sealant doesn’t work out so well, as theres simply too much interference to allow the sealant to properly bond, resulting in a breakdown of any solid protection. It was as if the AIO brought it down to its level...

However when I let it stand alone for a week or 2 [in this case HD Speed] and then began a steady topping with Beadmaker as a drying aid after every wash it worked seamlessly and that protection lasted over 6 months and I have no doubt it would’ve lasted a whole year without allowing contaminants to bond to the paint.

I’m talking baggie test passing smooth as glass paint! Real protection. BeadMaker can truly do it, but it must be used frequently. I’m still using it on my current daily driver. It’s so slick to wipedown the paint when there’s no bonded contaminants.

What would you recommend for the best process/product to protect paint from harsh desert conditions/uv rays. I have a black truck, parked outside in the Las Vegas sun. Gloss is great but im really trying to protect the clearcoat from ever reaching failure. Thx

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[Eldorado2k]

What would you recommend for the best process/product to protect paint from harsh desert conditions/uv rays. I have a black truck, parked outside in the Las Vegas sun. Gloss is great but im really trying to protect the clearcoat from ever reaching failure. Thx

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TBO the liquid sealant I personally use and what I consider to be the best liquid sealant ever created is a product that was discontinued about 5yrs. ago... I was able to predict it would be discontinued just before it happened and managed to pick up enough to last me the rest of my life.

It’s the same stuff you see beading on the passenger side of the roof in the experiment I posted earlier in this thread.

How was I able to predict it would soon be discontinued? Easy, it was too good to be true. And when you have that then you also have the risk of the manufacturer somehow being dumb enough to discontinue it and that’s exactly what they did... Same exact thing happened to the TW Endura Tire Coating and there still doesn’t exist a tire product that can match what it was pound for pound.

I’ve never found another liquid sealant that can match it all things considered.. But if I were to recommend something that Should work I guess things like Collonite come to mind? However I’m pretty sure that’s technically a durable carnuba wax and therefore wouldn’t pair best with my other recommendation to go with it, which is Beadmaker.

So because of that I guess I’d probably recommend something like Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish as a base layer then topped with Beadmaker as a drying aid every single time the truck is washed [that includes quik detail wipedowns and waterless washes] Every 1-2 weeks with some Beadmaker and at least 4 times per year a dedicated base layer with the Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish.

That process Shouldn’t need any special reseting or re starting from scratch which is something I always like to not have to constantly do.

That’s exactly how I treat my own car. I just make sure to lay down that dedicated layer of sealant every 3 months, no special prep needed, I certainly don’t have to polish my car for the foreseeable future unless I have somekind of burning desire to have fun [which we can all relate to]


P.S. Based on your own current description saying that the “gloss is great” tells me that you maintain it washed and clean at most times and that alone will carry it much futher than the same truck left in the hands of an owner doesn’t care or have the time to keep their truck anywhere near as clean as yours.

Keep that in mind and you’ll see you have almost nothing to actually worry about.

 

[Mikem3574]

That process Shouldn’t need any special reseting or re starting from scratch which is something I always like to not have to constantly do.

That’s exactly how I treat my own car. I just make sure to lay down that dedicated layer of sealant every 3 months, no special prep needed, I certainly don’t have to polish my car for the foreseeable future unless I have somekind of burning desire to have fun [which we can all relate to]


P.S. Based on your own current description saying that the “gloss is great” tells me that you maintain it washed and clean at most times and that alone will carry it much futher than the same truck left in the hands of an owner doesn’t care or have the time to keep their truck anywhere near as clean as yours.

Keep that in mind and you’ll see you have almost nothing to actually worry about. [/QUOTE]

Right on! Thx for the imput!! I used Megs D166 recently (about a month ago) to correct some trail rash and Ive been maintaining it weekly with Megs Quik Detail and then the Megs Quick Wax. Ill definitely take your advice in a couple months when its time to lay down another base coat of wax. Appreciate ya.



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[Eldorado2k]

Right on! Thx for the imput!! I used Megs D166 recently (about a month ago) to correct some trail rash and Ive been maintaining it weekly with Megs Quik Detail and then the Megs Quick Wax. Ill definitely take your advice in a couple months when its time to lay down another base coat of wax. Appreciate ya.



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If you find yourself going through many bottles of Meguiars Quik Detailer along with their Quik Wax to maintain your truck... You should definitely consider investing in a gallon of Meguiars D115 Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax Concentrate.

It combines both of the products you’re using into this higher quality version that comes in a concentrated gallon allowing you to decide how to mix it to your needs.

Meguiars Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax D-11501, rinseless car wash, rinseless wash and wax

It’s basically the gallon concentrate version of this great product which they sell over the counter in rtu 24oz. bottles.

The great thing about the stuff in that gallon is that Meguiars recommends diluting it anywhere from 4:1 all the way down to 20:1

Meaning that if you really wanted to use it at it lowest recommended dilution that single gallon could actually yield 21 gallons of detail spray/waterless wash.

At the very least that gallon will yield 5 whole gallons when diluted @4:1 which is how I always used it.

I recommended that gallon to a good friend of mine who used to bucket wash his car religiously every 5-7 days and after he bought himself a gallon to mix up he literally never bucket washed his car ever again and it basically never gets dirty now because he simply uses that product to quickly wipedown his car every 2-4 days.

That was over 4yrs. ago. That’s how much he likes it.

 

[acuRAS82]

I polished off the back roof, which isn’t a huge area (‘panoramic’ moonroof on this car), but should be plenty sufficient to keep even Eldo content.

Same process as front roof driver’s side:
GG6, Pinnacle Compound, hand wipe with prep polish (totally unnecessary), LC white pad for 360. I did drivers side on speed 4.5 (more aggressive) and passenger side with speed 3 (more sealant friendly). Not sure it’ll make a difference but we’ll see.

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I’ll have this in the garage sometimes, outside sometimes. If/when it’s outside it’s going to accumulate heavy pollen until first wash in 2 weeks. I’ll try to avoid rain, but no guarantee if my wife needs the car. If it gets rain, it represents the northeast spring experience.

Update 5/22 (7 days since 360 application)

The Q5 has been in the garage 3 days, outside 4.5 days. It had a good layer of dry pollen on it as of last night. Today was the first it saw of rain. It was driven 10 miles in the rain and has been in the driveway under the rain since. The rain washed away most the pollen. 360 is going strong to this point (can’t believe I need to point this out after 7.5 days):

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We’re still a week away from it’s first wash for this mini-test, but couldn’t help giving a quick update.

 

[Belo]

I used a Red foam finishing pad which is equivalent to a Lake Country Black pad. Soft and Little to no cut. I also applied plenty of the 360. 3 separate sections for just half the roof.


I did everything except bless the panel with holy water and even then I still doubt it would’ve beaded water after 2 weeks.

well shoot, there goes that theory then... unless you're too soft and leaving abrasive behind hahahahahah

oh man idk...

 

[acuRAS82]

It’s been 2 weeks since my 360 application. I won’t wash fir another day or two but wanted to provide a free preview. The car has been outside 9 days, garaged 6 days. This is the second moderate-heavy raining it’s been under.
I must admit the beading looked a little too good this morning and I was worried that CanCoat was the horror villain who won’t die away (even after compound?!?). But reality kicked in after rain had ended, the roof started to show its ‘sealanty’ water traits as the beads flattened out and became a bit NIS-shaped during the drying process. But it’s still there, for sure.

Below are pics an hour or so after rain stopped this afternoon.

Front:
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Back:
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Next update after washing this weekend!

 

[Eldorado2k]

Thanks for the free preview.

 

[WaxMaster1]

TBO the liquid sealant I personally use and what I consider to be the best liquid sealant ever created is a product that was discontinued about 5yrs. ago

I’ve never found another liquid sealant that can match it all things considered

You better text me that secret sealant!

 

[briarpatch]

TBO the liquid sealant I personally use and what I consider to be the best liquid sealant ever created is a product that was discontinued about 5yrs. ago

I’ve never found another liquid sealant that can match it all things considered

What?? Did Chemical Guys really stop making JetSeal 5 years ago??? Say it ain't so!!!!


:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[acuRAS82]

Update 5/30/20:

Beads after rain on 5/29/20:
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Then this morning I washed the roof with HyperWash. The following pictures were taken after hose rinse, about every 2-3 seconds:
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After 30 seconds:
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The front roof sheets a little slower (pics every 2-3 seconds) and it’s obvious which parts are still CanCoat:
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So from what I can see, 360 is still present at 16 days and a wash. It’s doing the best on the back panels where less contaminants are probably hitting it during drive time. It’s not as strong as when first applied. It takes about 12–15 seconds to fully sheet during a standstill with ‘shower’ setting on the hose. It still beads fairly well during rain.

I’ll monitor a bit longer and it may get washed again since it light rained after this initial wash and I want the car clean for weekend driving.

 

[Eldorado2k]

This indicates failure in my book...

As does this.

IMO if/when a panel is truly beading, it’s beading from the moment the water hits it, never allowing water to pool like it is in those pictures.^

I like an lsp to show beading from the moment the water hits the panel.

Anything less is a big compromise that’s not worth settling for.

 

[acuRAS82]

Eldo, I have much respect for you. But when the terms and conditions of an outcome are based on what you decide and not reality, it makes me very glad I’ve never places big money bets with you.

Not all sealants have the same water behavior. And not all hose spray patterns promote the same type of water behavior. By your definition, M21 fails from the moment it’s applied. In my definition, protection is protection. And that roof is still clearly protected.
And I don’t understand what the compromise is that’s is settling. Within 12-15 seconds these panels are 98% rid of water. And the panel looked completely clean the other day as all the pollen washed off from a moderate rain. There’s no risk of water spots.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Eldo, I have much respect for you. But when the terms and conditions of an outcome are based on what you decide and not reality, it makes me very glad I’ve never places big money bets with you.

I’ll have to test out the water behavior of McKee’s 360, along with some other AIO’s to see how they react 12hrs. after application.

My guess is they’ll exhibit good water beading within that time.

 

[Eldorado2k]

What?? Did Chemical Guys really stop making JetSeal 5 years ago??? Say it ain't so!!!!


:laughing::laughing::laughing:

No it’s not Jet Seal. This stuff will completely destroy Jet Seal. Lol.

 

[acuRAS82]

I’ll have to test out the water behavior of McKee’s 360, along with some other AIO’s to see how they react 12hrs. after application.

My guess is they’ll exhibit good water beading within that time.

I agree that the beading will be better right after application. I also agree that it’s currently present on my roof based on beading during rain and sheeting during spray down. Third, I agree that those water characteristics at two weeks might not please some people and could make them want to top or try something else.

You should publish the name of your sealant here, if you feel comfortable. Autogeek shouldn’t care about mention of a discontinued product that has no link or sales pitch. But understood if you prefer not to fit whatever reason.

Stay healthy and safe.

 

[Eldorado2k]

You should publish the name of your sealant here, if you feel comfortable. Autogeek shouldn’t care about mention of a discontinued product that has no link or sales pitch. But understood if you prefer not to fit whatever reason.

I prefer not to, because it has the potential to cause a s***storm. Lol.

And I’m glad you didn’t take my opinion personal, because I’ve got nothing but love for you, brother.