Megs MF DA System Problem

Marc08EX said:
Wait a sec.. You're turning the tool on at speed 3 or 4 while hitting it with compressed air to clean it? If so, then you're doing it wrong. the tool should be turned off when hitting it with compressed air. If the pad doesn't have anything against it and you turn on the tool @ sped 4 then the pad will surely fly off.
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Good to know now. :laughing:

My cleaning process was actually with a brush. For the compressed air I was just commenting based on what I saw in the video. Could be remembering it wrong.

I turned the machine down to 4 when cleaning on the first pad. It flew off while the brush was touching the pad. If it spun with no load at any time it was only for a split second. It flew off the 4th or 5th time I was cleaning it. The same thing for the second pad only I had kicked it down to 3 when cleaning that time around.

I will just have to be more careful the next time around. :xyxthumbs:
 
tommythecat said:
The problem I have is that you are supposed to spin the pad with no load when using the compressed air...which is what they do in the video. Following the directions seems like what caused the failure. I was turning my DA down to 4 when cleaning the first time it failed...down to 3 the second time it failed.
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When cleaning the pads with compressed air you DO NOT want to turn the machine on. The air itself with cause the pad to rotate if you simply angle the stream of air on the pad. I can't say for sure that is the cause of your failure, but it's a place to start.


Edit: Just read your other post so never mind. :D
 
I've had a couple 3" MF pads fail on me. I think the problem was I used too much pressure and they became too hot. All my 5.5" pads have been fine. Regardless, these pads are revolutionary as far as performance, IMO.
 
So let's see if I have this right: when cleaning the MF pads with a brush, not air, the machine should be rotating slowly, like speed 1-2, then gently touch the pad with the brush to fluff the fibers. Is that right, close, or way off the mark?
 
Cleaning the MF pad with a a pad brush is relatively worthless. Try using a MF towel with the polisher on, or the best, compressed air. It is VERY important with the MF pads that you keep them clean.
 
I'll use a towel, no compressed air available. Thanks Mark.
 
You know a few things

Kevin Brown does say and other Meg Rep that a batch of these cutting pads have been failing and it was an error in the manufacturing process. Give a call to Megs or to Kevin Brown and they will take care of it.

Megs and other reps does state that you should clean your pads after every panel and should rotate them. Pad Brush, Bug Sponge, Compressed air or Megs/Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer.

Megs does state with their very own G110v2 to never go beyond speed setting 4 (4800opm). The GG6 is a MUCH more powerful machine and they state to never go past speed 4 also with this machine. The PC is a weaker of the two but speed 4 is whats recommended.

I've noticed that a lot of people have gone passed Speed 4 and even speed 5 (myself included), that leads to the failure. Not only that not cleaning the pads = heavier pad + pressure = fail. And some people have even stated that when cleaning with the pad brush they turned on their machine to around speed 2 which lead to the failure.
Which brings me to this point;

Saturated pad + heavy load = fail
high speed + no load = fail

Should just follow simply guidelines of cleaning the pads as often as you can and keeping the speed low and load right you should get many cars out of a pad.
 
No problem. Place the MF towel on the face of the pad, turn the polisher on. This is better than using a pad conditioning brush.
 
Rei86 said:
Megs does state with their very own G110v2 to never go beyond speed setting 4 (4800opm). The GG6 is a MUCH more powerful machine and they state to never go past speed 4 also with this machine.


.
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I wouldn't say the GG is MUCH more powerful, but it is noticeable. I'd stay at speed 3.5 with the GG. Also, when increasing the OPM's more than recommended, you're no just dealing with a higher % pad failure, but also heavier marring.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I wouldn't say the GG is MUCH more powerful, but it is noticeable. I'd stay at speed 3.5 with the GG. Also, when increasing the OPM's more than recommended, you're no just dealing with a higher % pad failure, but also heavier marring.
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Speed 5 it was working fine for me and never noticed it going to fail. I didn't notice a heavier marring either at this speed. However did do it wrong and dropped my speed to four and the pads been fine still.
 
It's also a good idea to check the temps of the pad often. If you feel it's getting hot then switching to a new pad would be a good idea.

I only use compressed air to clean my pads and I do it after every section. I'm confident that cleaning with compressed air helps cool the pads too. I can typically do a whole car with one pad, and the test pad that I've been using since December before it's release has probably done a dozen cars or so by now, and it's still going strong. :props:
 
Compressed air is out of the question for me, because of space and funding. Because I would like to purchase a good one instead of buying something that works for now. So I'm going to go ahead and purchase the Girt Guard pad washer to keep them cool and clean for me anyways.
 
tommythecat said:
Good to know now. :laughing:

My cleaning process was actually with a brush. For the compressed air I was just commenting based on what I saw in the video. Could be remembering it wrong.

I turned the machine down to 4 when cleaning on the first pad. It flew off while the brush was touching the pad. If it spun with no load at any time it was only for a split second. It flew off the 4th or 5th time I was cleaning it. The same thing for the second pad only I had kicked it down to 3 when cleaning that time around.

I will just have to be more careful the next time around. :xyxthumbs:
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I hope this fixes your issues Tommy. :)

Like what Chad (RaskyR1) said, the pressure of the compressed air hitting the pad will make the pad rotate by itself. The tool is switched off and it's not making the pad rotate at all.

Also, the hook and loop system of the W67DA is very short compared to other backing plates such as the LC 5" one. This is what allows cool operating temperatures and this is mainly the reason why Meguiar's recommends using their backing plate. The drawback to this is that the BP wouldn't hold on to your pad as strong as something with a longer hook and loop fingers. This is probably what's causing your pads to fly off when nothing is against it.

The reason why I know this is because of first hand experience LOL! When I first got my G100 back in 2004, I was trying to spin dry my W9006 finishing pad and just with speed 3, the pad flew off!!! LOL!


Belair said:
So let's see if I have this right: when cleaning the MF pads with a brush, not air, the machine should be rotating slowly, like speed 1-2, then gently touch the pad with the brush to fluff the fibers. Is that right, close, or way off the mark?
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That could work but you can also brush the pad with the tool switched off. Just hold on to the pad/BP and brush away.
 
I have a LC 5" BP and the hook and loop fingers are the same as the Meguiar's one /dunno
 
RaskyR1 said:
I only use compressed air to clean my pads and I do it after every section. I'm confident that cleaning with compressed air helps cool the pads too. I can typically do a whole car with one pad, and the test pad that I've been using since December before it's release has probably done a dozen cars or so by now, and it's still going strong. :props:
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+1
I know a lot of people don't have air but if you can get it, it's very worth while.

I only use air to clean my foam pads now too. The pad brush is too harsh and rips the foam apart at times and using a towel doesn't seem to get the pad as clean as I'd like and takes longer.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I've had a couple 3" MF pads fail on me. I think the problem was I used too much pressure and they became too hot. All my 5.5" pads have been fine. Regardless, these pads are revolutionary as far as performance, IMO.
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I definitely don't have a problem with the performance. I am loving the defect removal ability of these things. Now if only I could get some decent before/after/50/50 pictures...stupid greystone metallic...
 
Thank you all for chiming in on this issue. This experience has been educational.

A few more general questions...

I have been cleaning after each section pass...too often?

How much product should I realistically be using after each section pass? 2 pea sized drops...3?

How can I tell if the pad is oversaturated? Will it start to show product in the foam backing?

Thanks again! :dblthumb2:
 
tommythecat said:
Thank you all for chiming in on this issue. This experience has been educational.


I have been cleaning after each section pass...too often?
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Absolutely not too often, that's perfect.

tommythecat said:
How much product should I realistically be using after each section pass? 2 pea sized drops...3?

How can I tell if the pad is oversaturated? Will it start to show product in the foam backing?
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After priming the pad, if you're only adding 3(even large) pea sized drops, you're not over saturating the pad by any means. As you were doing before, clean the pad after each section.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Absolutely not too often, that's perfect.


After priming the pad, if you're only adding 3(even large) pea sized drops, you're not over saturating the pad by any means. As you were doing before, clean the pad after each section.
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I was having this problem with saturating the back of foam on the pad with product and causing some pad failure. I was having to reach for a new pad too often and after speaking with Rasky about it, I was using too much product after cleaning each section.
 
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