My Method with Megs #105

Wow! thanks a lot sir!

Really got an insight from your post(#14) on how the pad priming works!

I'll be getting my M105 on Monday I guess, I'll definitely try out your method!

Thanks again! :D
 
Ok, so the first pic of the primed pad, shows excess product?

And the second pic shows a primed pad with less product?
 
kronos said:
Ok, so the first pic of the primed pad, shows excess product?

And the second pic shows a primed pad with less product?
Click to expand...

Yes.

After you've primed, apply a circle, X, or dots of product to the pad and polish!

Clean the pad occasionally to remove abraded residue, reprime, and apply circle, X, or dots again.

While not everyone sees the benefit or cares to try this... for me it works fantastic.

This is for DEFECT removal, by the way.

For final polishing, you still prime, but then remove excess product by placing the pad onto a microfiber towels and run the machine a few seconds. This will minimize the chance that abrasive clumping might occur as the blobs of M105 fall out of the pores. Apply a bit of M105 to the pad, and polish using a slow speed setting (enough speed so that the pad still rotates, but only 1 or 2 turns per second), move the pad about 1-inch per second, and keep an ample amount of pressure on the machine- just enough so you are sure that the face of the pad is absolutely in contact with the paint surface. Don't decrease pressure off at the cycle.
 
Guys....like I said in post #3, I really think the Kevin Brown Method is a "must use" for M105.

Read Kevin's posts (thanks Kevin!) in this thread and give them heed!
 
Rob T said:
Guys....like I said in post #3, I really think the Kevin Brown Method is a "must use" for M105.

Read Kevin's posts (thanks Kevin!) in this thread and give them heed!
Click to expand...

Thank YOU, sir! :dblthumb2:
 
Just my luck, this thread was being written today after I had so many problems yesterday. I will reread this and give M105 another chance but would still like to try something else with a longer working time.
 
nothing wrong with your method , but in texas u get a good 1-3 months with 100+F outside and it flash way faster than when you work at 75F for example.
few days ago i work with 205 in 72F and i almost work twice as much than when i polish at 100F , even if you work in the shade the heat still cuts working time.

Cosmin
 
Kevin Brown said:
Yes.

After you've primed, apply a circle, X, or dots of product to the pad and polish!

Clean the pad occasionally to remove abraded residue, reprime, and apply circle, X, or dots again.

While not everyone sees the benefit or cares to try this... for me it works fantastic.

This is for DEFECT removal, by the way.

For final polishing, you still prime, but then remove excess product by placing the pad onto a microfiber towels and run the machine a few seconds. This will minimize the chance that abrasive clumping might occur as the blobs of M105 fall out of the pores. Apply a bit of M105 to the pad, and polish using a slow speed setting (enough speed so that the pad still rotates, but only 1 or 2 turns per second), move the pad about 1-inch per second, and keep an ample amount of pressure on the machine- just enough so you are sure that the face of the pad is absolutely in contact with the paint surface. Don't decrease pressure off at the cycle.
Click to expand...

Subscribed...

Also been using much of this same technique, however instead of cleaning pads on the fly I change and prime them often...
 
Lasthope05 said:
You know what method works really well to combat M105's short working time? Mineral oil(baby oil.)

I learned this trick when I first ran into a car with a sticky clear coat. I looked around and found 2 ways to combat the polish from gumming up and that was switch to a DA polisher or use a drop of mineral oil every 2-3 new sections.

When the customer returned for a follow up and I tested the two methods. DA works well but the mineral oil gave me the biggest surprise. Put some mineral oil in a pump sprayer and used 1 mist every 2-3 sections, cleaning the pad between each new mist. Let me tell you, it made working with M105 a dream. The pad was so smooth and buttery, similar to working with OP II, and working time was really long. You could basically work it forever if you wanted. It still dusted but not as much as it usually does and I saw no real lost in cutting ability. Use mineral spirits vs IPA to remove the oils and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

This is an interesting option and I might give it a try.

I hear mineral spirits is used for "other" problems but it may have found another home in the shop! Three drops for you and a tablespoon for me!! Not enough Oooooo's in smooth! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
 
BobbyG said:
This is an interesting option and I might give it a try.

I hear mineral spirits is used for "other" problems but it may have found another home in the shop! Three drops for you and a tablespoon for me!! Not enough Oooooo's in smooth! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Click to expand...

I am sure you were thinking oil but you said spirits.
 
Rob T said:
I think the Kevin Brown Method for priming the pad is a must with M105.

This helped greatly in terms of giving me a longer working time before flashing.
Click to expand...


Can you please give me an idea of the KB method as I cannot use 105 witgh the short work time.
 
JSFM35x said:
Can you please give me an idea of the KB method as I cannot use 105 with the short work time.
Click to expand...

Uhh.. :idea: Read this thread? :dunno:

If it doesn't help, read this: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21634-what-s-kbm-method.html#post268303

There's a gaggle o' guys posting here on AG that have had great success playing with priming and pressure and speed and pads... they always happily chime in.

Some guys are happy with the results they get just by slapping a pad on the machine, applying some product, and turning it on and gettin' to the business of polishing!

Not trying to pull you away from this forum, but there's a TON of info in regards to methedology and general discussion about random orbital theory on another detailing forum based somewhere... where in the world was it... in the UK I think... :props:
 
Kevin Brown said:
Uhh.. :idea: Read this thread? :dunno:

If it doesn't help, read this: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21634-what-s-kbm-method.html#post268303

There's a gaggle o' guys posting here on AG that have had great success playing with priming and pressure and speed and pads... they always happily chime in.

Some guys are happy with the results they get just by slapping a pad on the machine, applying some product, and turning it on and gettin' to the business of polishing!

Not trying to pull you away from this forum, but there's a TON of info in regards to methedology and general discussion about random orbital theory on another detailing forum based somewhere... where in the world was it... in the UK I think... :props:
Click to expand...

:haha:
 
I love M1015, used with what I have learned from Mr Brown it is a great product. I would really be interested in seeing what a 2.0 would offer.
 
I gave up on M105 a long time ago.

If only Ultimate Compound was sold in gallons.

Besides, in a few years there will be something bigger and better than M105.
 
Grizzly said:
I gave up on M105 a long time ago.

...If only Ultimate Compound was sold in gallons...
Click to expand...


The full pop price for a 16 oz.bottle is $10.
Street price is about $8. 16 ounces x 8 = 1 gallon. So... $8 x 8 bottles = $64.

The full pop price for a gallon of M105 is $98.99. Street price is about $69.

There you go... save $5 buying a gallon of Ultimate Compound. :props:
 
Kevin Brown said:
Uhh.. :idea: Read this thread? :dunno:

If it doesn't help, read this: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21634-what-s-kbm-method.html#post268303

There's a gaggle o' guys posting here on AG that have had great success playing with priming and pressure and speed and pads... they always happily chime in.

Some guys are happy with the results they get just by slapping a pad on the machine, applying some product, and turning it on and gettin' to the business of polishing!

Not trying to pull you away from this forum, but there's a TON of info in regards to methedology and general discussion about random orbital theory on another detailing forum based somewhere... where in the world was it... in the UK I think... :props:
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will read and explore!
 
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