Nardo Grey Audi RS3 - Detailed by Lawrence

Joe@NextLevelDetail said:
Fantastic job, what made you go with pf2300 ?

Was you only doing a one step , or this just worked best ?
Click to expand...

Thank you very much Joe.

Well I am an avid Menzerna user and find when paired with the Flex 3401 and the Hybrid pads just seem to work on German paint, which is predominantly what I deal with. In principal I wanted to do as little as I could get away with from a polishing perspective on such a new car, but the owner wanted the defects out, and although would have 'prefered' to get away with something less aggressive like SF4000 (SF4500 is not readily available over here), my test spots with both the grey and white Hybrid pads did almost nothing with it in terms of removing the defects.

PF2300 removed just enough paint to get most of the defects out (not quite enough with a white pad, but enough with the orange) so I chose to one step it with the orange... the value of the additional refining step would have been lost on the owner, so I chose not to do it and went straight to waxing.
 
Stunning job Lawrence! Amazing what a skilled detailer can accomplish!
 
lawrenceSA said:
in fact if you look at the afters of the B-pillar correction you can see there is still some haze in the paint, albeit that the paint here is MUCH softer than the baked OEM clear coat, and so would mar more easily, but I doubt that the customer would be able to identify this, even out in the sun.... not everyone 'sees' what us detailing nuts do.
Click to expand...
Yep, I saw the marring. However, you're 100% right about most will definitely not see what we do.

Your work is always top notch! I ALWAYS click on your Show n' Shines.
 
Thanks for the post.
I just spent the last 4 days doing the works on my Nardo gray Audi S3. This was my first time doing a full on detail with wash, decon (chemical and autoscrub), paint correction, prep, coating, etc. It was pretty frustrating to say the least.

Even after working on my paint for several days I just don't understand this paint and how it behaves to correction, is it soft, is it hard? I could not for the life of me correct it as much as I would have liked (wanted to use least aggressive method), nor could I get it to finish as nice as I would have liked. I used a combo of PC DA, and mostly one step, rupes yellow pad and sonax perfect finish. I had to use Jescar correcting compound with Meguiars Microfiber cutting disc on the hood to see what the difference would be, it was a bit better, but not dramatic, so i stuck with one step.

Seems like this paint likes to mar/scratch really easy. After the hard work of paint correcting, simply rubbing off the paint coating with a gyeon bald wipe, eagle edgeless, or esoteric final wipe microfiber towels would instill fine scratches (new and once washed towels). The whole thing drove me batty!! Hard paint should be difficult to correct and easy to finish, soft is easy to correct but difficult to finish right? I was never able to figure it out. Now I know why detailers charge so much to do this. My back is on fire! LOL.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top