Oil Filters?
- Thread starter Bags
- Start date
Thejoyofdriving
New member
- Jun 10, 2007
- 1,166
- 0
I was talking to my friend last week about this, and he said to never use after market oil filters because it will mess with the oil circulation. I dont know if he is right but it is worth investigating. they just started coming out with these new nano fiber filters which filter 10x better, but it probably restricts your oil flow 10x slower. One thing i recomend is to take 4 or more strong magnets, and put them in a circle around the oil filter, the magnets will atract metal particals to the outside of the container, it works magic, i cant wait to try it. you can find oil filter magnets online if you wish, just type in oil filter magnets in google.Im the MAN:awesome:
Last edited:
Gnarboots11
New member
- Jun 1, 2007
- 204
- 0
uh, I had a 1990 Nissan Maxima that went for 350k miles before I gave it away and all I did was keep it clean and change the oil and other normal maintenance. I used whatever name brand oil was on sale, never used synthetic before, and I used Fram oil filters, the regular old Fram oil filters, same goes for my parents 1995 T-bird which went for 250k miles with no issues, my brothers 1992 Toyota Truck, other brothers 1995 F150. I am a believer that all those fancy filters and things are just hype and not really necesarry. If a car is going to have issues it will have issues regardless of the oil filter you choose, just my opinion.
Gnarboots11
New member
- Jun 1, 2007
- 204
- 0
06CivicSi said:
O and changing the oil every 3k miles is completely unecesarry. In fact, newer cars are coming with built in oil life indicators to tell you when to change your oil and they are programmed to change your oil up to every 12k miles. This was done for environmental reasons because people are changing their oil way to often and causing too much waste. This is one of the ways the car industry is trying to "Go Green". Anyways, I changed my oil every 6k miles, 3k miles is crazy!
- Thread starter
- #9
Interesting views. I read somewhere that honda changed its filters and the new ones aren't that great. Some people say they get better milage and performance with synth oil as opposed to conv oil. The accord has 28,000 miles on it. So it's not only dirt but metal the filter has to remove. Maybe I should have asked if the aftermarket products are really worth it. K & N air filters, synth oils, high pro plugs etc...
klumzypinoy
New member
- Jan 30, 2007
- 3,265
- 0
I've seen Purolator being talked about on BITOG. I'm thinking of going to those
Tropicality
New member
- May 30, 2007
- 75
- 0
As far as aftermarket filters restricting the oil flow that is something that you would have to find out if your vehicle manufacturer approves of that such filter or not.
Lots of these things depend on if you are still under warranty or not, if you are under warranty you have to do what the manual says if you don't want to void it. This includes following the recommended drain intervals even when using a synthetic oil, which for even my brand new 07 Mz3 is still 5000km (3000miles). And as far as what kind of filter/oil to use, as long as it is approved by your vehicle manufacturer (all are different) then it is ok.
For example on my new '07 Mazda3 GT that I just did the first oil change at 2100km (oil was very black and I'm glad I did not wait any longer to change it, if I'd have waited until 5000km I think my engine would have blown up or at least shaved a good 50,000k or more off of its life, besides, who knows what kind of crap oil they used in there or if the dealer changed it themselves and used the wrong oil etc etc. Feel's much better knowing that I did it myself). I put in Mobil 1 which the dealer said is fine to use as long as it is 5w20 which the manual calls for. On my car it is also the new canister filter style (to cut down on waste I guess) where you only replace the actual filter element (like an air filter) [I used a Wix] and O-rings so there ends up being no real difference no matter what kind of filter you use. I'm actually really liking that recommendation up above for using magnets, only problem is that my housing is Aluminum so I'd have to tape them up there but I'd still have to wipe down the area in front of the magnet with something to remove anything that is there each time I replace the filter though, at least this way I'd actually be able to SEE the buildup of whatever the magnets attract as opposed to a closed filter canister style.
Check this link out for alot of info on synthetics: More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
If its too much for you at least read the summary at the end.
Lots of these things depend on if you are still under warranty or not, if you are under warranty you have to do what the manual says if you don't want to void it. This includes following the recommended drain intervals even when using a synthetic oil, which for even my brand new 07 Mz3 is still 5000km (3000miles). And as far as what kind of filter/oil to use, as long as it is approved by your vehicle manufacturer (all are different) then it is ok.
For example on my new '07 Mazda3 GT that I just did the first oil change at 2100km (oil was very black and I'm glad I did not wait any longer to change it, if I'd have waited until 5000km I think my engine would have blown up or at least shaved a good 50,000k or more off of its life, besides, who knows what kind of crap oil they used in there or if the dealer changed it themselves and used the wrong oil etc etc. Feel's much better knowing that I did it myself). I put in Mobil 1 which the dealer said is fine to use as long as it is 5w20 which the manual calls for. On my car it is also the new canister filter style (to cut down on waste I guess) where you only replace the actual filter element (like an air filter) [I used a Wix] and O-rings so there ends up being no real difference no matter what kind of filter you use. I'm actually really liking that recommendation up above for using magnets, only problem is that my housing is Aluminum so I'd have to tape them up there but I'd still have to wipe down the area in front of the magnet with something to remove anything that is there each time I replace the filter though, at least this way I'd actually be able to SEE the buildup of whatever the magnets attract as opposed to a closed filter canister style.
Check this link out for alot of info on synthetics: More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
If its too much for you at least read the summary at the end.
07SteedaQ335
New member
- Apr 25, 2007
- 151
- 0
Amsoil ALL the way.
Try there EA filter line
Try there EA filter line
Al-53
New member
- Mar 4, 2006
- 1,710
- 0
I have been using Amsoil and Puralator Pure1 filters...I go 10,000 miles between changes with a Used oil analyse at 5000 when I change the filter....and the test comes back perfect...saying my oil has not yet reached half life..and no engine wear detected...Amsoil is fine oil....they claim 25.000 on it but I change it at 10,000...its a group IV and V oil meaning pure synthetic base stock....not group III like mobil...
it is very important to use a good air filter to keep contaminants out of oil...I use a Pure 1 there also....I was told not to use a K&N since it does not filter well and the oil can mess with the MAF sensors....
When I had to have my oil pan gasket changed under warranty at 34,000 miles..the mechanic came out and told me the engine was as clean as new and told me to keep doing what I was doing....I even brought my own oil when gasket was replaced so it would be put in instead of thier oil...
as far as filters...the good ones are
Wix
Pure1
K&N...but need a 1inch socket for them to remove and put on....
Napa gold
Baldwin
Motorcraft
Bosch
Amsoil which I believe is a Hastings or Baldwin
those were listed as the best constructed and best filter media...with non restricted flow...
I recommend a used oil analsyst to any one who drives a car hard or any performance car....at least once a year.....they range fro 20.00 to 30.00 a test...well worth it...may find something wearing that you do not know about...
AL
it is very important to use a good air filter to keep contaminants out of oil...I use a Pure 1 there also....I was told not to use a K&N since it does not filter well and the oil can mess with the MAF sensors....
When I had to have my oil pan gasket changed under warranty at 34,000 miles..the mechanic came out and told me the engine was as clean as new and told me to keep doing what I was doing....I even brought my own oil when gasket was replaced so it would be put in instead of thier oil...
as far as filters...the good ones are
Wix
Pure1
K&N...but need a 1inch socket for them to remove and put on....
Napa gold
Baldwin
Motorcraft
Bosch
Amsoil which I believe is a Hastings or Baldwin
those were listed as the best constructed and best filter media...with non restricted flow...
I recommend a used oil analsyst to any one who drives a car hard or any performance car....at least once a year.....they range fro 20.00 to 30.00 a test...well worth it...may find something wearing that you do not know about...
AL
trlblazer3
New member
- Dec 3, 2006
- 617
- 0
I use Mobil 1 and K&N filter currently. I order my filters in bulk from a site sponser over on the Colorado board, we get a nice discount on them.
wytstang
New member
- Apr 29, 2006
- 4,216
- 0
Well said I use Black Stone Labs for my oil analysis using Motorcraft (MC) 10w30 I can go 6,000 mile between changes (using MC FL1A) on my lil o'l 5.0 with 136,000 mile and I drive it like I stole it. The Fusion gets MC 5w20 and goes 5,000 using MC 820S filter. Both oils are synthetic blends, you can uses MC oil in any car and @ 2.35 a quart MC oil is hard to beat. Paper filter Wixs for me. One oil filter that hasn't been mentioned as has scored high on BITOG is AdvanceAuto brand filter they are good. K&N is good just price compared to others that perform just as good if not better. Here was the last sample I sent out and what it scored (they like my V8Al-53 said:
)
