Poli-seal, Opti-Seal and OCW performance

charlestek said:
It is possible I screwed up the dilution. I have to check if my pail is 3 gallon or 5 gallon, I filled it up halfway and used 4 bottle caps per gallon as instructed (thinking I was using about 2 gallons of water). The Meguiars gold class shampoo is supposed to be ok: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...t-good-inexpensive-car-wash-soap-shampoo.html

I did use about 2-3 coats of opti-seal. The combo of all 3 should be darn protective.

I now have some Optimum Waterless Wash, which I will use going forward.

However, I do have to re-seal the car. It looks like the Wolfgand Glaze is the best, but I need a garage to remove the swirls and a garage for 12 hours to let the glaze cure, which I may or may not be able to get. I don't have a garage in my house. This is why I was thinking about the Klasse AIO, it would take out some swirls, and I hope it cures faster.
Click to expand...

Wolfgang finishing Glaze is a finishing polish. You may be referring to Wolfgang Sealant. You already have the Optimum quality products... I would give it another go if even on just one small test spot before giving up on it. Something had to be wrong in the prep, application, or environment. If you're determined to be done with it then the WG sealant is a terrific product.
 
Oops, sorry, you are right. There are too many products and I hate to use abbreviations.
 
Regarding dilution of car shampoo, I have found it necessary to double-check the measurement lines on my bucket. The gallon markings were in fact way off. I have also found it helpful to use a small measuring cup to measure out the shampoo. I think I am now getting a more accurate dilution than I was.

I find it doubtful that the Gold Class shampoo is the culprit here, if properly measured.
 
With the new Gold Class bottle I have, the cap is small, and I remember quickly dumping shampoo into it until it overflowed then putting it in the bucket. I'm sure I overfilled the cap, but by how much, I don't know.

Oh well. Does anyone have a large garage in the Boston area they want to rent??
 
charlestek said:
However, I do have to re-seal the car. It looks like the Wolfgand Glaze is the best, but I need a garage to remove the swirls and a garage for 12 hours to let the glaze cure, which I may or may not be able to get. I don't have a garage in my house. This is why I was thinking about the Klasse AIO, it would take out some swirls, and I hope it cures faster.
Click to expand...

Why do you need to take out the swirls again if you just took them out? If you just need to re-seal, just reseal, there is no polishing/swirl removal required. You're not the only guy on this forum without a garage. Wash the car, wipe it down with IPA if you'd like, and apply your sealant. Done.
 
I sealed the car close to 2 months ago. There are swirls again in the finish, unless they are in the sealant or OCW. Doesn't make sense to seal over swirls.
Plus the Wolfgang sealer can't cure near any moisture, like condensate that would happen overnight. The instructions say it needs 12 hours in a dry place to cure. While it is curing you can't have any dusk, dirt, leaves etc. land on it.

Tech Note: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is a water-based, oxygen activated paint sealant. After buffing off the sealant, the remaining coating needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully bond to the paint. Exposure to moisture during this time will drown the polymers. For the best results, allow 12 hours of curing time.



So I do need a garage.
 
I think you're making this too hard. What's wrong with sealing over swirls? They'll still be there waiting for you in the spring, along with some fresh ones from winter washing. If you're going to go mental over sealant curing, just put some Collinite 476 on, that'll be good to go about 2 minutes after you put it down, will mask your swirls somewhat, and last all winter.
 
See the world's greatest sealant test: The Biggest Sealant Test ever! - Detailing World

61 Sealants were tested.

Collonite was not tested.

"After 4 months, the following sealants are still protecting the paintwork:

Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

I do not know the other sealants in the list, but Klasse AIO and Wolfgang are listed.

So Klasse AIO should be another good choice because you don't have to wait for it to cure. But from what I've read Klasse is nearly impossible to get off the finish.
 
i would take collonite 845 over any of those. it will outlast wolfgang. i put two coats of 845 on my truck before every winter and it lasts throughout no problem. These are Michigan winters to boot which are similar to yours.

also klasse AIO is not a sealant, but a cleaner wax type product that you would use before the sealant glaze.

I know all the choices can be overwhelming when it comes to protection, but don't overthink it. fart around too much longer and winter will be here and it wont matter anyway.
 
The AG page for Klasse AIO says : Acrylic is the Solution. Acrylic is different than wax, silicones, and polymers. This polish will bond to your car’s surface just like the previously mentioned treatments

So it is an acrylic.

I agree I'm beating some of this to death, but that is the only way to find out a majority opinion.

Unfortunately the autopia review did not test the collonite, so forgive me, but based on doing searches in AG for winter protection and the autopia tests, I would narrow it down to Wolfgang or Klasse

But anyway, it did well in the test. There are lots of choices, and I thought I had the right thing with the Poli-Seal and Opti-Seal and OCW, so naturally I want to pick the right product the second time. If you do a search for winter protection in AG forums, you generally come up with more recommendations for Wolfgang Sealant.
 
proudpoppa said:
I know all the choices can be overwhelming when it comes to protection, but don't overthink it. fart around too much longer and winter will be here and it wont matter anyway.
Click to expand...

:dblthumb2:


Grab the DP, WG, Colli, or UPGP and call it a day :dblthumb2:
 
charlestek said:
The AG page for Klasse AIO says : Acrylic is the Solution. Acrylic is different than wax, silicones, and polymers. This polish will bond to your car’s surface just like the previously mentioned treatments

So it is an acrylic.

I agree I'm beating some of this to death, but that is the only way to find out a majority opinion.

Unfortunately the autopia review did not test the collonite, so forgive me, but based on doing searches in AG for winter protection and the autopia tests, I would narrow it down to Wolfgang or Klasse



ok well at least you have narrowed it down. I highly advise you not to use an AIO ( all in one) product and expect it to make it through the winter. Another thing to take into consideration (maybe you have) is the location of the person doing the review. Someone who lives in an area with little to no snow and salt isn't really going to have the knowledge of what lasts in a northeastern type winter.

Whatever you decide I hope it works out for you, and have fun doing it.
Click to expand...
 
I did more reading and it appears that the Klasse AIO is more of a chemical cleaner than having abrasive swirl removing properties. However in the The Biggest Sealant Test ever! - Detailing World
tests Klasse Aio with Klasse Sealant lasted 4 months, and the combo is frequently recommended. Of course if the AIO doesn't really polish that much, I suppose it is an extra step that many not be needed. I hate to put down new sealants without taking out any minor swirling since a couple of months ago, but it is a large effort (at least for me) to polish out the swirls, not to mention needing a garage large enough for my 6'4" frame to get at all the body parts, so the previous recommendation of just putting down the stuff for the winter without polishing is probably right.
 
Charlestek, if durability is your decisive concern, then go with one of the following: Collinite 476s, Finish Kare 1000p, Klasse Hi Gloss Sealant, or Zaino.

Am I not right, guys? Are these not the four most durable waxes/sealants? The only one I think I may be overlooking is Duragloss 105.
 
charlestek said:
I hate to put down new sealants without taking out any minor swirling since a couple of months ago
Click to expand...

If you have more swirls after only a couple of months, you'd better take a look at your wash technique/materials, unless you have a black Honda, in which case I'll let you off the hook this time...:D
 
Setec Astronomy said:
If you have more swirls after only a couple of months, you'd better take a look at your wash technique/materials, unless you have a black Honda, in which case I'll let you off the hook this time...:D
Click to expand...

Haha! You must have a Honda, too. Oh the agony! I love my Honda but the swirls will always be with me. :)
 
Unfortunately it is a black 2003 Nissan Maxima with 45k miles. The swirls look light, I don't know how you tell if they are in the wax or the clearcoat. I have been using two Vroom microfiber drying towels, that might be the culprit. I ordered some Meguiar drying towels, but AG backordered them and they are coming late. I have been using an Autozone chenille microfiber sponge, so that could be suspect as well. I was going to order a couple Meguiars mitts, with my last order, but AG had them out of stock, so I got a Mother's lambswool mitt.
 
A few words of advice:

1. I switched to half-decaf a long time ago.

2. No one notices those swirls except you, everyone else thinks your car looks great.

3. It's only new for like a minute and a half, especially when it wasn't new to begin with.

4. As we used to say over at another forum, process > product. It's not so much about what brands you use but how you use them. Technique is more important than the products.

5. My winter LSP's are generally Collinite 476 or Meguiar's #16. I've used Collinite 845 on cars that aren't outside all the time. That's here in NJ where the roads usually look like the Bonneville Salt Flats all winter.

PS You don't have swirls in your wax.
 
akimel said:
Charlestek, if durability is your decisive concern, then go with one of the following: Collinite 476s, Finish Kare 1000p, Klasse Hi Gloss Sealant, or Zaino.

Am I not right, guys? Are these not the four most durable waxes/sealants? The only one I think I may be overlooking is Duragloss 105.
Click to expand...

+1

For durable sealants and waxes; FK 1000p, KAIO+KSG, Zaino, UPGP, Collinite 845, 476s, and 915, DG 601+105 and DG 501 are the way to go.
 
Charles, please listen carefully to Setec's sage advice. This ain't rocket science. It's just waxing. Your vehicle's salvation does not hinge on the decisions you make here. And as far as swirls, they will be with you forever! You may succeed in perfectly refining your paint surface, but I guarantee you you will be back dealing with swirls in six months. There are a few detailers who have mastered the swirl-free wash (Accumulator, fronten center); but most of us mortals have not. The best thing to do is to take three steps back and then admire your car, swirls and all. As Setec says, nobody but you is noticing your swirls. They think you have a great looking car.

Setec Astronomy said:
A few words of advice:

1. I switched to half-decaf a long time ago.

2. No one notices those swirls except you, everyone else thinks your car looks great.

3. It's only new for like a minute and a half, especially when it wasn't new to begin with.

4. As we used to say over at another forum, process > product. It's not so much about what brands you use but how you use them. Technique is more important than the products.

5. My winter LSP's are generally Collinite 476 or Meguiar's #16. I've used Collinite 845 on cars that aren't outside all the time. That's here in NJ where the roads usually look like the Bonneville Salt Flats all winter.

PS You don't have swirls in your wax.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top