Well not exactly. Yes you can remove clearcoat much but to burn paint with da is much more unlikely with da because the pad makes two kind motion. With rotary you are only spinning the pad and it creates more heat.
Rotary VS Dual Action for Compounding
- Thread starter jslym777
- Start date
Well not exactly. Yes you can remove clearcoat much but to burn paint with da is much more unlikely with da because the pad makes two kind motion. With rotary you are only spinning the pad and it creates more heat.
And you are assuming that the Rupes operator is making mistakes. Cutting paint and burning paint is two different things.
mwoywod
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- Apr 3, 2016
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Burning through paint when cutting with a rotary and wool/lambswool pad is sort of a non issue for those of us proficient with the rotary. Detailers as a whole are not only more educated on proper techniques, but the rotary polishers are now capable of being dialed down to 600rpm's. Also, modern cutting compounds don't dry up as quickly and provide more lubrication which helps to keep the paint cooler throughout the cutting process.
I know this and i also have Festool Shinex on my arsenal.
mwoywod
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Personally for 2-step compounding jobs I always use rotary and either the LC Lambswool cutting pads or Hybrid Wool pads for my initial cutting step. Because it finishes so well, for my second step I generally use a GG6 and a white polishing pad with HD Polish+.
coles_paint_correction
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- Dec 27, 2012
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Well it really depends on how bad the vehicle is honestly, if it's real bad i would just rotary cut it and then da but
if it's not that bad and you want to save clear the da can preety much achieve what a rotary can imo.. but in the end it's honestly just
opinion of what you like and prefer. The da will be the safest and still preety close to the rotary with everything out now a days but
not to say that theres no need for a rotary. Also not everything needs to be cut with a wool pad and rotary or microfiber and a serious cutting agent.
My choice is the da most of the time but do love to use rotary.
if it's not that bad and you want to save clear the da can preety much achieve what a rotary can imo.. but in the end it's honestly just
opinion of what you like and prefer. The da will be the safest and still preety close to the rotary with everything out now a days but
not to say that theres no need for a rotary. Also not everything needs to be cut with a wool pad and rotary or microfiber and a serious cutting agent.
My choice is the da most of the time but do love to use rotary.
dlc95
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- May 18, 2013
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You need to be more specific as to what kind of d/a, and to how It's set up.
You talking random orbital (what orbit stroke?) or forced? You talking microfiber / wool pads and heavy cut compound? New, modern compounds, or old technology.
Give specifics.
It comes off like you already know your answer and are looking for a fight.
Calendyr
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- Jun 9, 2013
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I have a rotary and pretty much never use it. It's in my arsenal just in case I can't do what I need with the DA.
Right now, if you use either a long throw DA like the Rupes 21 or a Forced Rotation DA like the Flex 3401, and you use a microfiber cutting disk with D300 compound, it is very close to what a rotary with wool can do. But it is safer. The one downside is that the microfiber cutting disk wear out really fast. I have not been able to do more than 4 cars with one. Also D300 is very expensive compared to other compounds. So there is a higher cost to the safety.
I have nothing against Rotaries, but for me, I really don't see a reason to take the risk of burning an edge to save what... 30 minutes out of the entire buffing process?
But in the end, I think you should use what you are most comfortable with. If you like using the rotary for paint correcting, then using the DA for polishing, then do that. It's probably the fastest way to go about it if you do a 2 or 3 step correction. In my world 1 step is king. People with daily drivers are usually not interested in having a 2 day correction done.
Right now, if you use either a long throw DA like the Rupes 21 or a Forced Rotation DA like the Flex 3401, and you use a microfiber cutting disk with D300 compound, it is very close to what a rotary with wool can do. But it is safer. The one downside is that the microfiber cutting disk wear out really fast. I have not been able to do more than 4 cars with one. Also D300 is very expensive compared to other compounds. So there is a higher cost to the safety.
I have nothing against Rotaries, but for me, I really don't see a reason to take the risk of burning an edge to save what... 30 minutes out of the entire buffing process?
But in the end, I think you should use what you are most comfortable with. If you like using the rotary for paint correcting, then using the DA for polishing, then do that. It's probably the fastest way to go about it if you do a 2 or 3 step correction. In my world 1 step is king. People with daily drivers are usually not interested in having a 2 day correction done.
jslym777
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- Oct 26, 2010
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- #35
1 - In what case do you use it that you can't achieve results from your DA?
2 - How is it safer if the operator is proficient with each tool and takes all necessary preliminary steps?
3 - We are only talking about 2 step corrections in this discussion (not a one step) because even if you use a heavy cut with microfiber pad, there will still be some DA hazing from this process that you need to finish off.
It can level defects faster without burning paint. Leveling a defect and burning through are two different things, burning is excessive heat which is not related to cut.
Sanding a piece of wood and setting it alight are different things, both generate some form of heat, get the picture?
mwoywod
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Faster than cutting with a rotary? I believe that the 21 MKII offers the more correction than a rotary on open flat panels, but the 21mm orbit still makes it completely impractical for correcting every surface on most modern vehicles. Unless you're working out of a body shop and all the panels are disassembled? If not, I assume you're using a multi-tool approach which for me takes a lot more time.
Yeah, i wonder how many times it has to be said.
jslym777
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I would always expect to do a second step after using a wool pad on a rotary, so this doesn't follow my chain of discussion, nor does it show an even comparison. I would always agree that if it is light polishing a single step is the way to go. But, what we are talking about here is heavy compounding (two step process).