Rupes Mille vs 3401 - UPDATED Thoughts

mbpress01 said:
First thank you for your unbiased review of the various tools used in your detailing business.

Based on what you have written I have recently purchased 2 of the Rupes Mille and their pads (I already have 2 of the Flex 3401) and given that time is always an issue for me (and not being a detailing professional) I am constantly exploring the most efficient way to have great looking family cars with only a one step process and then a coating. Since I bought the Rupes Mille liquids my plan was to polish my Black Lexus GS350 with the Mille polishes (either fine or extra fine), then coat with Opti Gloss Coat. 2 years ago I used Flex with Menzerna SF3500 and then Opti Coat and the car looked excellent but I wanted a smoother tool since the Flex is beast and just beats my hands up terrible.

I was wondering if you have a preferred process for the Rupes Mille with CarPro Essence since that product combines a polish with a coating and that just seems to be an unbelievable combination, if I can dial it in right. I see you have used Essence with the Mille and any thoughts on technique (how many passes, tool speed, product usage) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for these amazing write-ups - they were very informative.
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TTQ B4U said:
I won't go with a non-forced rotation unit. I see no issues with finishing on either unit and have zero interest in working with a unit that isn't forced.
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Question/statement was not for you.
 
Rsurfer said:
Since you have a 3401 that took care of the heavy work..why didn't you go with the Mark 11 15, instead of another forced rotation? IMO the Mark 11 finishes better than any forced rotation.
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Excellent question and the answer is I don’t have good technique with the rupes big foots. I had the mark I, the griots boss and the rupes 21, rupes duetto, and the trusty old porter cable and not once was I able to keep the pad spinning on curved panels.

I have explored this issue in depth and the jury is still out. Many forum members claim they never stall with the rupes mark 1 or 2 and a bunch of other members say it stalls every time it hits a curved panel (this is my experience). Instead of over thinking it, I just go with forced rotation and just figure the right pads and liquids. Mike P says (paraphrase) that it’s the abrasive technology that make the difference - not the tool - so get the right abrasive technology for the job and pick the tool that suits you best. Now that rupes really has proven to be the leader in tools - although flex is great who really needs a battery operated tool - I am all in with rupes. Companies that innovate get my dollars. Current setup - 2 rupes Mille, the mini rupes, ibird nano, all their pads and liquids and their little swirl finder light for good measure. I will test it all out and see how it goes and report back if anything occurs out of the ordinary. Thx for the question.
 
mbpress01 said:
Excellent question and the answer is I don’t have good technique with the rupes big foots. I had the mark I, the griots boss and the rupes 21, rupes duetto, and the trusty old porter cable and not once was I able to keep the pad spinning on curved panels.

I have explored this issue in depth and the jury is still out. Many forum members claim they never stall with the rupes mark 1 or 2 and a bunch of other members say it stalls every time it hits a curved panel (this is my experience). Instead of over thinking it, I just go with forced rotation and just figure the right pads and liquids. Mike P says (paraphrase) that it’s the abrasive technology that make the difference - not the tool - so get the right abrasive technology for the job and pick the tool that suits you best. Now that rupes really has proven to be the leader in tools - although flex is great who really needs a battery operated tool - I am all in with rupes. Companies that innovate get my dollars. Current setup - 2 rupes Mille, the mini rupes, ibird nano, all their pads and liquids and their little swirl finder light for good measure. I will test it all out and see how it goes and report back if anything occurs out of the ordinary. Thx for the question.
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Use the Mini and ibred for curves and tight areas, the Mark 11 should take care of the rest.
 
mbpress01 said:
Excellent question and the answer is I don’t have good technique with the rupes big foots. I had the mark I, the griots boss and the rupes 21, rupes duetto, and the trusty old porter cable and not once was I able to keep the pad spinning on curved panels.

I have explored this issue in depth and the jury is still out. Many forum members claim they never stall with the rupes mark 1 or 2 and a bunch of other members say it stalls every time it hits a curved panel (this is my experience). Instead of over thinking it, I just go with forced rotation and just figure the right pads and liquids. Mike P says (paraphrase) that it’s the abrasive technology that make the difference - not the tool - so get the right abrasive technology for the job and pick the tool that suits you best. Now that rupes really has proven to be the leader in tools - although flex is great who really needs a battery operated tool - I am all in with rupes. Companies that innovate get my dollars. Current setup - 2 rupes Mille, the mini rupes, ibird nano, all their pads and liquids and their little swirl finder light for good measure. I will test it all out and see how it goes and report back if anything occurs out of the ordinary. Thx for the question.
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In my experience it just comes down to the technique some people enjoy or get used to using.

I can spin an original PC all over most curves and contours - no problem - Unless I'm using the traditional orange and white pads... Then it's a pain.

But the other things are pressure, and keeping the pad flat. I find that a lot of people who come to me for help polishing use too much, hold the tool at an angle without realizing it, or a combination of the two. Too much pressure, and they slow rotation down too much. Off canter, and they'll get almost no rotation. The combination gets no rotation. A lot of times the pad is just barely at an angle, and it goes unnoticed. When they address that issue, It's like they unlocked a mystery!

I like to encourage people to first address their technique, and if the habits can't be adjusted, then to go with a tool that suits their needs. Sometimes that mean stepping up to a forced rotation.
 
Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!
 
Krypt0n1te said:
Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!
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1. The blue foam will cut more than the yellow wool.

2. The yellow pad will definitely be able to remove hazing from the blue wool.

3. The yellow foam pad should finish without issue on 99% of paints. It's more so the polish used that will dictate finishing results.

For the most part, I don't think the blue foam is needed. The blue wool will take care of anything the blue foam would. The blue wool can be used as a 1-step on some paints.
 
Krypt0n1te said:
So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad? Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?
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I will defer to WRAPT as I've not used their Yellow Wool / compared it to the blue foam.
2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?
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Yellow will work just fine at removing the haze and will finish out beautifully. Just keep an eye on soft Honda or Subaru Paint and adjust your polish appropriately. Polish is more important than pad.


3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?
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Yellow will work just fine and finishes out great. I do have a full set of white pads for soft paints and for my own personal vehicles as I tend to enjoy refining their finish more than usual before coating them.



WRAPT C5Z06 said:
1. The blue foam will cut more than the yellow wool.

2. The yellow pad will definitely be able to remove hazing from the blue wool.

3. The yellow foam pad should finish without issue on 99% of paints. It's more so the polish used that will dictate finishing results.
Click to expand...
 
Krypt0n1te said:
Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!
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1. For me the Yellow wool cuts better, leaves a better finish and is more durable than the blue foam.
2. Yes
3. Yes
 
WRAPT C5Z06, TTQ B4U and Ronin47...Thank you so so much for your assistance and guidance, I really appreciate it. Most importantly I learned that compound/polish plays a bigger part than I originally thought.
 
Ronin47 said:
1. For me the Yellow wool cuts better, leaves a better finish and is more durable than the blue foam.
2. Yes
3. Yes
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Ronin47, if I may ask...

Which compound/polish do you use on the Yellow Wool pad? The Yellow or Blue Rupes compound that came with the kit or a different brand?

Thanks
 
Krypt0n1te said:
Ronin47, if I may ask...

Which compound/polish do you use on the Yellow Wool pad? The Yellow or Blue Rupes compound that came with the kit or a different brand?

Thanks
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All types of compounds but really liking Clear Cut.
 
Krypt0n1te said:
Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!
Click to expand...

1. Have a look at this chart - Foam vs. Microfiber vs. Wool: Polishing Pad Comparisons - RUPES USA and this video for info on the various pads and relative performance comparisons YouTube

2. In most cases any combo of blue for cutting/yellow for finishing (regardless of material) is going to be your go to with our system. On harder paints the yellow wool will finish perfect, but may haze on softer paints. In those situations finish with yellow foam.

3. Yellow is fine in most situations. The white is what I would consider more of a highly-specialized finishing foam for extremely soft paints, haze prone paints, or stuff thats just really difficult to finish.
 
Dylan@RUPES said:
1. Have a look at this chart - Foam vs. Microfiber vs. Wool: Polishing Pad Comparisons - RUPES USA and this video for info on the various pads and relative performance comparisons YouTube

2. In most cases any combo of blue for cutting/yellow for finishing (regardless of material) is going to be your go to with our system. On harder paints the yellow wool will finish perfect, but may haze on softer paints. In those situations finish with yellow foam.

3. Yellow is fine in most situations. The white is what I would consider more of a highly-specialized finishing foam for extremely soft paints, haze prone paints, or stuff thats just really difficult to finish.
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Thank you for the links! Good stuff.

What are your thoughts on the green pads on the Mille? I have a full set but have not tried them.
 
Dylan@RUPES said:
1. Have a look at this chart - Foam vs. Microfiber vs. Wool: Polishing Pad Comparisons - RUPES USA and this video for info on the various pads and relative performance comparisons YouTube

2. In most cases any combo of blue for cutting/yellow for finishing (regardless of material) is going to be your go to with our system. On harder paints the yellow wool will finish perfect, but may haze on softer paints. In those situations finish with yellow foam.

3. Yellow is fine in most situations. The white is what I would consider more of a highly-specialized finishing foam for extremely soft paints, haze prone paints, or stuff thats just really difficult to finish.
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Hi Dylan, IIRC, on a past chart, Rupres did not recommend the white pad for soft paint.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Hi Dylan, IIRC, on a past chart, Rupres did not recommend the white pad for soft paint.
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Indeed. Todd did suggest yellow or UHS for finishing. Blue and green combos for more cut. White wasn't mentioned for OEM Soft.

Could be personal preference for Dylan.
 
Rsurfer said:
Bump for Rupes Mille vs Flex 3401.
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Have used my Mille on a number of details since starting this thread. Brief thought in addition to what I've shared thus far:

Pros:
  • Smoother and quieter when using Rupes pads vs the 3401 with Hybrid Force Pads
  • Slightly quieter or at least the sound is more tolerable
  • 25+ ft cord. At first I was like Meh....but since, I really like that I can work with it more easily
  • Smaller orbit is easier to use in tighter areas but then the Flex is still small to me compared to long throw units
  • Speed selector on the Rupes is nicer than on the flex and location is better too
  • After using it for a while then going back to the Flex, the Mille does prove to correct faster. It rotates noticeably faster even though on paper it doesn't seem like a huge difference. Makes it great for AIO/polishing.


Downsides:
  • Ergonomics on the Flex are way better. The trigger on the Rupes locks in place but it's way too easy to trip/bump thus requiring it to be re-locked on. Never had that issue with the 3401 because the trigger is more recessed. The grip on the Flex is nicer too. I tend to hold triggers in my right hand when operating thus my left hand is for downward pressure and controlling the pad. The Rupes requires I grip around the bad as the handle/foot on that side is too small and not easily gripped. I don't have big hands either, just average. (no Trump jokes please) as I do have big feet :)
  • The Rupes is also taller thus under spoilers, front air dams, grills, etc. the Flex fits but the Rupes doesn't. It's also a little longer and feels a little heavier but that could just be in my head.
  • I also think Rupes pads are more limited. I have been using the UHS system and their Green pads.....both of which are thicker and not necessary directed to be used on the Mille but they do work well on it. The downside is they take a beating and in the short time I've had it, I've had to replace two UHS Pads and I have two green pads that are about to be replaced and I actually already have two new ones. I'm suspecting they aren't as strong as the hybrid force pads thus the torque is hard on them.
  • I'm okay and understand that and may in the end just not use them but will continue to use the UHS Polish as it seems to work really really well. that said, I find the blue coarse pads horrible for splatter. If there's a trick to using them with compounds and not splattering I've not found it. Instead I just use my flex with wool and call it a day. Not sure I'll ever use the blue pads honestly as the splatter is stupid bad.
  • I've tried the Medium wool pads on the Mille and they work....but honestly, the LC Purple and blue wool on the Flex work way better thus I won't be using the Mille for compounding. Just polishing and AIO jobs.


I'm sure there's more but it's late and I'm tired. Hope the above helps.
 
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