Sealant comparison

Cruzscarwash said:
Out of all these have you seen anything bead or repel water better then PNS?? I'm not seeing anything do better especially if you topped with BSD to prolong it.

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I haven't tracked beading, unfortunately. Perhaps I could do so over the summer. May be possible to check beading every other day with ~10 or so per day on the Rover hood. Will need to see if I have the time to do this.
 
My go-to for a drying aid on the Boxster is a Reload + Ech20 mixture. Last weekend I applied it to the Boxster minus the side where I had other sealants applied. I figured I may as well test this as well. I removed on vertical section on the passenger door so I could see when it's not performing relative to an area with no sealant. I applied DG Squeaky Clean between the blue tape with an MF applicator pad, then washed twice with Reset.

View attachment 70031

Rover (driver and passenger side)
  • CanCoat - clearing in ~10 seconds (or less)
  • DG coating - 10 seconds
  • Collinite 845 - about 12 seconds
  • Duragloss 104 - about 12 seconds
  • Red Mist - 1 second
  • MS #6 - 1 second
Seems I called MS #5 and DG coating done too early. They both seems to still be working on both sides of the Rover. I'll have to retest over winter again. MS #5 seems to have some potential to be a very long lasting sealant. As a wipe-on-walk-away it has good potential.

Sentra (driver and passenger side)
  • Aquawax - 10 seconds
  • Sonax High - 10 seconds
  • Bead Maker - 5 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 1 second
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 3 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 3 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 1 second
Boxster (driver and passenger side)
  • Hydro2 - 1 second
  • Meguiar's - 1 second
  • McKee's - 3 seconds
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 2 second
 
Checked the Rover and Sentra today. Boxster is at work with the wife until tomorrow or Friday. Both cars were washed with Carpro Reset before checking sheeting times. I sprayed with a pressure washer, washed with a BRS, and rinsed with a pressure washer.

Summary: everything that was working last time is still working well.

Rover (driver and passenger side)
  • CanCoat - clearing in ~8 seconds (or less)
  • DG coating - 8 seconds
  • Collinite 845 - about 10 seconds
  • Duragloss 104 - about 10 seconds
  • Red Mist - 3 seconds
  • MS #6 - 3 seconds
Sentra (driver and passenger side)
  • Aquawax - 8 seconds
  • Sonax High - 9 seconds
  • Bead Maker - 8 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 2 seconds
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 3 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 3 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 2 seconds
 
Got a chance to test sealants on the Boxster today. Pressure washed, washed with N-914 using Everest 800 MF towels, and rinsed with the pressure washer before testing.

Boxster (driver and passenger side)
  • Hydro2 - 2 seconds
  • Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic - 1 second
  • McKee's Hydro Blue - 2 seconds
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 3 seconds
These are all doing well and all very close. If I recall correctly the previous spray-on-spray-off products I tested went from working well to not working quickly.
 
I've been thinking about what to test next. Considering summer here is short and the Sentra is going to college with my kid in Sept, I have limited time to apply product.

Here's what I'm thinking for the rest of the year:

  1. Retest products that didn't last long to be sure
  2. Retest products that have high variability between
  3. Retest products that were only tested on horizontal surfaces (roof, hood, trunk)
  4. Retest the longest lasting products over winter
 
Checked the Rover a couple of days ago and the Boxster and Sentra today. Rover and Sentra were washed with Reset and a BRS. Boxster was washed with N-914 and my favorite rinseless towels (Everest).

Rover (video)
  • CanCoat - clearing in ~8 seconds (or less)
  • MS #6 - 3 seconds
  • Red Mist - 2 seconds
  • DG coating - 8 seconds
  • Collinite 845 - about 10 seconds
  • Duragloss 104 - about 6 seconds
Sentra (video)
  • Aquawax - 8 seconds
  • Sonax High - 6 seconds
  • Bead Maker - 8 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 2 seconds
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 3 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 3 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 2 seconds
Boxster (video)
  • Hydro2 - 2 seconds
  • Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic - 1 second
  • McKee's Hydro Blue - 2 seconds
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 3 seconds
The Boxster products are all working well. I believe Sonax Spray and Seal is shedding water the fastest.
 
Updates below. No big changes. Collinite 845 is slowing down. Most others are working well.

I didn't follow my plan above and added two new products to the Rover: DP Spray Sealant and Wowo's Show Stopper. I polished that panel with Nanoskin Compolish (a fine polish) with an LC white pad followed by DG Squeaky Clean with an LC black pad. Then washed with CarPro Reset just to be safe.

View attachment 70129

I noticed that the lower section of the door with DG 104 + 601 (polish bonding agent) is working just as well as the section with 601 only. It seems that DG 601 gives less longevity with all the other products I tested it with. So far not with DG 104. Thought that was noteworthy.

Rover (video - I forgot to show MS #6 and Red Mist in the video - they're both clearing very quickly)
  • CanCoat - clearing in about 8 seconds
  • MS #6 - 3 seconds
  • Red Mist - 2 seconds
  • DG coating - 6 seconds
  • Collinite 845 - about 12 seconds - this seems to be slowing down
  • Duragloss 104 - about 10 seconds
Sentra (video)
  • Aquawax - 7 seconds
  • Sonax High - 6 seconds
  • Bead Maker - 8 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 1 seconds
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 2 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 2 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 1 seconds
Boxster (video)
  • Hydro2 - 3 seconds
  • Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic - 2 seconds
  • McKee's Hydro Blue - 2 seconds
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 2 seconds
 
Washed the Rover and Sentra with CarPro Reset and a Big Red Sponge. Washed the Boxster with N-914 as rinseless ratio using Everest MF towels.

Collinite 845, AquaWax, and Sonax High Speed wax are done. Duragloss 104 is slowing down. Spreadhsheet is updated.

Rover (video)
  • CanCoat - clearing in ~8 seconds
  • MS #6 - 3 seconds
  • Red Mist - 1 second
  • DG coating - ~9 seconds
  • Collinite 845 - took about 20 seconds - calling it done
  • Duragloss 104 - ~11 seconds
  • Showstopper - 3 seconds
  • DP Spray Sealant - 1 second
Sentra (video)
  • Aquawax - took ~16 seconds to clear - calling it done
  • Sonax High - took ~14 seconds, calling it done as well
  • Bead Maker - 6 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 2 seconds
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 2 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 3 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 2 seconds
Boxster (video)
  • Hydro2 - 1 second
  • Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic - 1 second
  • McKee's Hydro Blue - 1 second
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 3 seconds
 
Cruzscarwash said:
Out of all these have you seen anything bead or repel water better then PNS?? I'm not seeing anything do better especially if you topped with BSD to prolong it.

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Edit: I think the answer is MS #5. It did well for me and was very hydrophobic for months, if I recall. Did you ever try Dodo Future Armour?

Hi Cruz, just realized I had not replied to this. PNS is quite good. No question BSD over PNS is a great combo. I need to test PNS again on a vertical panel. I'll can likely get new products applied next weekend. Some are failing which will free up some room for me to add others.

The spray on, hose off products seem to repel water very well, but they don't last nearly as long as PNS in my testing. I have 4 of the SOHO going right now and water doesn't stay on them. The 3 new (to me) products on the passenger side of the Sentra are also repelling water very quickly, but they were applied less than a month ago, so I don't know how long they will last (EliXr, Barracuda, and BF Synthetic Wax). Red Mist which is currently on the Rover is also repelling water very well. It's also only about a month old so we'll have to see.
 
Washed the Rover and Sentra with CarPro Reset and a Big Red Sponge. Washed the Boxster with N-914 as rinseless ratio using Everest MF towels.

Rover (video)
  • CanCoat - clearing in ~8 seconds
  • MS #6 - 3 seconds
  • Red Mist - 1 second
  • DG coating - ~9 seconds
  • Duragloss 104 - ~11 seconds
  • Showstopper - 3 seconds
  • DP Spray Sealant - 2 seconds

Sentra (video)
  • Bead Maker - 5 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 2 seconds
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 2 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 4 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 2 seconds

Boxster (video)
  • Hydro2 - 2 seconds
  • Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic - 3 seconds
  • McKee's Hydro Blue - 2 seconds
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 2 seconds
 
Washed the Rover and Sentra with CarPro Reset and a Big Red Sponge. Washed the Boxster with N-914 as rinseless ratio using Everest MF towels.

DG 104 is done. CanCoat and DG coating have slowed considerably and are likely close to done. The 4 spray-on-hose-off products on the Boxster are doing remarkably well, Sonax Spray and Seal in particular. Very few spray on products will shed water this quickly for 10 weeks.

Rover (video)
  • CanCoat - clearing in ~13 seconds
  • MS #6 - 5 seconds
  • Red Mist - 4 seconds
  • DG coating - ~11 seconds
  • Duragloss 104 - ~17 seconds - calling it done
  • Showstopper - 4 seconds
  • DP Spray Sealant - 5 seconds

Sentra (video)
  • Bead Maker - 6 seconds
  • CarPro EliXir (QD) - 2 seconds
  • Scholl Concepts Barracuda - 2 seconds
  • BF synthetic spray wax - 4 seconds
  • DG 931 as a QD - 2 seconds

Boxster (video)
  • Hydro2 - 2 seconds
  • Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic - 2 seconds
  • McKee's Hydro Blue - 2 seconds
  • Sonax Spray and Seal - 1 second
  • Reload + Ech20 - 3 seconds
 
Rippy, have you noticed any of the longer lasting products that seem to do well or poorly with water spots and etching? I've had too many etching problems with coatings so I'm looking to switch to one of the more durable sealants.
 
NoMoreBlackCars said:
Rippy, have you noticed any of the longer lasting products that seem to do well or poorly with water spots and etching? I've had too many etching problems with coatings so I'm looking to switch to one of the more durable sealants.
Click to expand...
I haven't really noticed any big differences in spotting or etching with sealants. I believe that replacing a sealant as needed will help with spotting on the paint. Really haven't tracked this closely, but that seems to be the case. I have the same issue with coatings, especially on horizontal panels: spotting and etching that have to be removed with polish, which also removes the coating.
 
RippyD said:
I haven't really noticed any big differences in spotting or etching with sealants. I believe that replacing a sealant as needed will help with spotting on the paint. Really haven't tracked this closely, but that seems to be the case. I have the same issue with coatings, especially on horizontal panels: spotting and etching that have to be removed with polish, which also removes the coating.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that makes sense to me. I just had Can Coat over CSL leave etched spots (tried all chemical removal options with no improvement) after the first drive 3 weeks after coating, topped with Reload to protect while curing. Car was covered until yesterday, no rain or other water exposure that I saw evidence of, and yet there is etching, as I had with another coating last year. I'm hoping a durable sealant and a lighter topper will do better. No durable protection product is worth it on black paint if it leaves spots.
 
Added a few products to the Rover. I removed the old sealants with Duragloss Squeaky Clean and a black LC pad, then washed twice with CarPro Reset. Here's a video of the sheeting action (a lack of) before I reapplied any products.

Note that when I apply spray sealants I'm waiting a few seconds before buffing them off. I want to make sure they have a chance to bond before I remove them. When doing a full panel most of the product will be on the paint before it's wiped off. I'm trying to ensure I simulate this usage.

6 products added for additional testing, all with relatively poor results. I'm trying to ensure they are really as low as I measured them. Trying Rupes P808 for a 6th time because I've seen high variability with it.

Products added
  • Prima Hydro Max
  • Sonus Acrylic Glanz
  • Rupes P808
  • Mothers Speed Spray Wax
  • Mystery Sealant #1 (check spreadsheet to see what this is)
  • Chemical Guys V07

View attachment 70489

I fixed some display issues with the spreadsheet charts. When a new series gets added to the chart it doesn't always format correctly. Got those issues fixed at the charts showing product tests by duration now how consistent symbols and colors.
 
Just about to decide what products I'll be using for the next year, and it would be so much more difficult, uncertain, and needle-in-haystack without your testing. Thank you! It helps that I'm near Seattle so essentially the same conditions.

The pains you've taken to get your spreadsheet data sorted only highlights how much physical work you've done and how detailed your notes have been. Hats off.

I am leaning toward FK1000 although the better durability and water behavior of Col 845 as well as easier application really gives me pause. Maybe I will divide my hood between FK1000, Col 845, PNS, and DG 111 (I still have a little of the latter 2). I am struggling to see record of whether FK1000 was ever applied without DG 601—can you clarify?

What's certain is that I'll go with DG AW and 931 for maintenance/drying aid, based entirely on your reporting and the praise here from others. I'll get both because they're cheap and decide which I prefer for my process and results. I may so play with a super hydrophobic SOHO like Wetcoat on lower panels in the cold months to see if it offers improved resistance to road grime.
 
Just about to decide what products I'll be using for the next year, and it would be so much more difficult, uncertain, and needle-in-haystack without your testing. Thank you! It helps that I'm near Seattle so essentially the same conditions.

The pains you've taken to get your spreadsheet data sorted only highlights how much physical work you've done and how detailed your notes have been. Hats off.

I am leaning toward FK1000 although the better durability and water behavior of Col 845 as well as easier application really gives me pause. Maybe I will divide my hood between FK1000, Col 845, PNS, and DG 111 (I still have a little of the latter 2). I am struggling to see record of whether FK1000 was ever applied without DG 601—can you clarify?

What's certain is that I'll go with DG AW and 931 for maintenance/drying aid, based entirely on your reporting and the praise here from others. I'll get both because they're cheap and decide which I prefer for my process and results.
I may also play with a super hydrophobic SOHO like Wetcoat and a nonSiO2 topper like BSD on lower panels in the cold months to see if they offer improved resistance to road grime.
 
NoMoreBlackCars said:
Just about to decide what products I'll be using for the next year, and it would be so much more difficult, uncertain, and needle-in-haystack without your testing. Thank you! It helps that I'm near Seattle so essentially the same conditions.

The pains you've taken to get your spreadsheet data sorted only highlights how much physical work you've done and how detailed your notes have been. Hats off.

I am leaning toward FK1000 although the better durability and water behavior of Col 845 as well as easier application really gives me pause. Maybe I will divide my hood between FK1000, Col 845, PNS, and DG 111 (I still have a little of the latter 2). I am struggling to see record of whether FK1000 was ever applied without DG 601—can you clarify?

What's certain is that I'll go with DG AW and 931 for maintenance/drying aid, based entirely on your reporting and the praise here from others. I'll get both because they're cheap and decide which I prefer for my process and results.
I may also play with a super hydrophobic SOHO like Wetcoat and a nonSiO2 topper like BSD on lower panels in the cold months to see if they offer improved resistance to road grime.
Click to expand...
Glad to read it's helpful to you. Yes, FK1000 was applied without DG 601. When I applied the longer term sealants to the Rover last year I did them without 601 on the top 1/2 of the doors and with 601 on the bottom. In all cases they had shorter durations with 601, except for DG 401 which seemed to do the same.

The last tests I did from these sealants had the following results:

[table="width: 250, class: grid"]
[tr]
[td]Product[/td]
[td]Duration (weeks)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Collinite 845[/td]
[td]47[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]DG 104[/td]
[td]49[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]FK 1000[/td]
[td]38[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Collinite 915[/td]
[td]28[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
 
NoMoreBlackCars said:
....the better durability and water behavior of Col 845 as well as easier application really gives me pause.
Click to expand...

Don't sleep on Collinite 476s. It is easy to apply as well, just a little differently.

You can apply 845 to the entire car/truck, and go out and have lunch at your local deli. It will wipe off like a dream when you get back home.

With 476, you apply to one panel (or half a panel if it is large) and then wipe off. :)
 
Thanks Rippy for the clarification. It's suprising to me that in your test FK1000P didn't do as well as 845 and that 915 was so far back from them, since the majority opinion (rarely, it seems, based on back-to-back testing) is that FK1000P, Collinite 476, and DG 111 are the most durable, with 915 a step back and 845 even more. I could see how the difference could be due to wet vs. hot & dry climate, or due to just lack of controlled testing aside from yours.

PaulMys, thanks for the tip. I prefer the 476 application process as you describe it so I'll opt for that over 845.

So I'm gearing up for a 4-way test of 476, 1000P, 111, and PNS on the hood. Will be testing for durability through the rainy NW fall/winter, but also, in order of priority, for water spotting, contaminant resistance, dirt and dust shedding, and water behavior. On the adjacent fenders I have Gtechniq CSL topped with Can Coat, applied only 3 weeks ago, so that will be fascinating to compare alongside the sealants.

A big part of what I'm testing for is how pristine these protectants will keep the finish on my soft jet black paint. Coatings are great in a few ways, including a little bit of marring resistance and preventing contaminants from etching into the clear coat, but in my limited experience they are themselves fragile in terms of susceptibility to etching from water spots, and even, in some cases, bug guts and bird bombs, which makes them like a thin fragile clear coat that must be protected as much if not more than the clear coat itself.
 
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