The RUPES LHR21ES Random Orbit Polisher and Polishing System by Mike Phillips

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for the quick reply. Wow!

I'd say its 80% daily drivers and 20% show cars.

I'd say that's a pretty normal ratio for most detailers.

I've recently teamed up with a local automotive restorer so I expect the ratios to change slightly. I have a few years experience all on the PC and I'd like to think I have good technique. (Will post an intro with pics of my work). Hope that's enough info. Based on that criteria what would you purchase?

Thanks
Eric

Since you already have a polisher with a free spinning drive mechanism, I'd lean towards the Flex 3401 which is forced rotation, forced oscillation.

You cannot stop the pad on a Flex 3401 from rotating. Can't be done. This means no matter what the shape of the body panel, if you're doing correction work or polishing work, two steps that abrade the paint to make it look nicer, then the tool is working.

Anytime a pad stops rotating or rotating enough to not abrade the paint then no work is being done.

The above is just an observation about the differences between the Flex 3401 and ANY tool that has a free rotating drive action.


That said, the best way to figure out which tool you're going to like is to test them all out by buffing on real cars. You get to do this at all my detailing boot camp classes.

If you like, I can post picture after picture showing my students using all the tools, that's easy enough to do. Here's a few pictures from a recent boot camp class of the tools everyone used...

My next Detailing Boot Camp Class is at the end of September. This class always fills up fast and you'll get a chance to use all the popular tools on the marked, a wide variety of product lines and you'll also get to learn how to wetsand by machine.


The link to sign-up is at the top of every page, just click on the graphic at the top of each page or click on the graphic below.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Getting to use the Rupes Bigfoot Polishers at Autogeek's Detailing Bootcamp Classes....



Removing Swirls and Scratches

Next up, the guys are going to get some hands-on time behind the pneumatic 15 and pneumatic Mini Polishers.

Rupes 21
Giving Mike a little hands-on training on arm speed, pattern and downward pressure, this is the first time Mike had ever used the Rupes 21 polisher...

Rupes 15
Working with Derek and the Rupes 15 Polisher...

Both guys have experience using Porter Cable and Griot's Garage DA Polishers and picked up really quick on how to use the Rupes polishers...

For getting the thin panel between the hood and the stainless steel trim we used the Rupes LHR75 3 Inch Pneumatic Random Orbital Polisher

:buffing:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Getting to use the Flex 3401 at Autogeek's Detailing Boot Camp Classes...

A little hands-on training to show how much downward pressure and arm speed for moving the tool over the surface.

Here we're inspecting the results using the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light and it's pretty easy to see the swirls and scratches are now gone and what remains is swirl-free finish.

Derek and Mike finished the front so now they're testing out the Flex 3401's for the first time and now they can compare how these tools work as compared to the Rupes they just used on the front clip.

:buffing:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike,
I am currently using a wet-sand then compound with a Flex rotary. 2-3 stage. Then da polish then seal or wax .

That's very tired and true process that works really well and one I use myself.

Obviously this is the most aggressive possible, so can the rupes follow wet sanding?

Yes. You can use the Rupes Bigfoot polishers to remove sanding marks. My recommendation would be to finish out at the highest grit level you can manage to make removing the sanding marks as easy as possible.

Here's what I say all the time about this topic and I even say it in this video here,

Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!


It already takes a long time to complete sand down a car and then remove 100% of the sanding marks using a rotary buffer, (the most powerful tool), why would I want to do it in any way that would make the process take longer?


Point being, when I have to remove sanding marks I want to get in and get done and the fastest, most effective way to remove sanding marks is by using a rotary buffer with a wool pad and an aggressive compound.

Also can it really replace the cutting power of a rotary?

The way you worded the above question the answer is "yes".

If I re-word the question like this,

"Is the Rupes Bigfoot polisher as powerful as a rotary buffer?"

Then the answer is no and that also goes for ALL other tools we all currently use to machine polish paint including, the Porter Cable, the Cyclo, the Flex 3401, the Meguiar's G110v2, the Griot's Garage DA Polisher.

Make sense?

You use a rotary buffer, you know how much power this tool has to remove paint quickly.

I do think you can sand, then cut out the sanding marks using a rotary and the switch over to a Rupes for the final polishing steps to ensure a hologram free finish and that is the goal of any true professional.

and lastly have you tested other compound lines with this tool? Meg., Menzerna.

I've been asked to show the Rupes polishers with Rupes chemicals and pads and since we've brought this line in that has been what I have faithfully done. I have let my Thursday night guys use them with other chemicals, but normally the Rupes pads and have seen nothing but good results.

One of my jobs here at Autogeek is to represent other companies and stick to their message. Forum members are free to do as they will, they are not under any restrictions or obligations.

Thanks your the time you put into your write ups it is truly helpful. :dblthumb2:

Thank you and your welcome...