The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

Hi Mike,

Once again, thank you for a very good article.
I followed this guide and polished my Dodge Wayfarer Business Coupe '49 during this winter, and I am quite satisfied with the results.
The picutres don't justify the amazing results, but nevertheless, here are a few pictures.
 
... I have attached two more pictures, one a close up of one of the fenders - and the other one showing the edge near the front window. I am interested in how you would treat these areas on a car that shows signs of rust.

EDIT: it is hard to see when the picuters get uploaded, will try to get some better picutres and upload during the weekend.
 
... I have attached two more pictures, one a close up of one of the fenders - and the other one showing the edge near the front window. I am interested in how you would treat these areas on a car that shows signs of rust.

I'd rub them down with the number #7 and do the best you can then seal with wax and enjoy the ride. Not more you can do outside of trying a compound and if you do this becarful you don't rub through the paint to primer or steel.


EDIT: it is hard to see when the picuters get uploaded, will try to get some better picutres and upload during the weekend.

I think you're "Attaching" your images. Try "uploading" them to your gallery and then "insert" them. That's how I do it and while it takes a little thinking to figure it out I do have how-to articles on this topic and I can even help you to figure it out.


:)
 
Hi Mike,

Thank you for your reply, I have tried to upload some better pictures (hope this will work :-) )

This picture shows the edge at the roof above the driver's door.
IMG_18492.JPG


As you cleary can see, a lot of 'rust' has gathered here through the years.

Here is a picture of my right front fender..
IMG_18513.JPG


...and a close up:
IMG_18522.JPG



How would you treat the fender ? - and would you still use #7 to remove the rust in the first picture ?

...and should I be concerned when I rub out #7 on my left front fender when it looks like this ?
IMG_18504.JPG



Thanks for the tip about uploading pictures instead - seems to work - and thank you for your time.

Best Regards
 
"As you cleary can see, a lot of 'rust' has gathered here through the years."
Try IRON-X on the rust then put on a top coat of your liking.Just putting off the inevitable. Now-a-days it`s called PATINA.
 
Hi Mike,

Thank you for your reply, I have tried to upload some better pictures (hope this will work :-) )

This picture shows the edge at the roof above the driver's door.

As you cleary can see, a lot of 'rust' has gathered here through the years.

would you still use #7 to remove the rust in the first picture ?


First, thanks for getting back to me...


Second, just this last week I shared a tip on cleaning out the drip rail on classic cars and streetrods before machine polishing, here's the link to what I wrote on our Competition Ready Facebook page.


Air currents


While the tip doesn't specifically apply to what you're trying to do it does apply to working the area you're going to work and that's the drip rail.

The rust you show inside the drip rail is common on old cars with old paint and here's what I would do. I would get a piece of terry cloth toweling, that is take a terry cloth bath towel, hand towel or wash cloth and cut out a chunk about 5" square.

Fold this piece of terry cloth in half and then dribble some #7 into the channel of the drip rail and then start rubbing the piece of terrycloth along the inside of the drip rail.

This will do three things,

1. Loosen and remove any loose paint that are chipping off. This is to be expected and by removing any loose paint you can now get to the surface below to clean and polish it.


2. Remove any rust residue. You'll have to rub a lot as surface rust on metal doesn't come off as easily as oxidized paint.

3. Restore a polished surface to any paint left inside the drip rail.


Then like the rest of the car, simply maintain this area using the same technique.


:)
 
Hello Mike,

What do you recommend using instead of the M80 speed glaze? I think it is discontinued as I cannot find it anywhere.

John
 
Hello Mike,

What do you recommend using instead of the M80 speed glaze? I think it is discontinued as I cannot find it anywhere.

John


Hi John,

I created for you, your very own thread. When you tag a question onto a thread that already has over 200 replies and almost 4 hundred thousand views it can get kind of lost.

Here's the link to your thread and I've posted a lot of info to help you restore the original paint on your 1969 Oldsmobile 98


How to restore original paint on a 1969 Oldsmobile 98




:xyxthumbs:
 
Dear Mike,

Can you tell me what to use instead of the M80 speed glaze as it does not appear to be available any longer and is no longer on the McGuiar's website.

All the best,

John G.
 
Dear Mike,

Can you tell me what to use instead of the M80 speed glaze as it does not appear to be available any longer and is no longer on the McGuiar's website.

All the best,

John G.
 
Dear Mike,

Can you tell me what to use instead of the M80 speed glaze as it does not appear to be available any longer and is no longer on the McGuiar's website.

All the best,

John G.


Dear Mike,

Can you tell me what to use instead of the M80 speed glaze as it does not appear to be available any longer and is no longer on the McGuiar's website.

All the best,

John G.


I did!

I posted the below right above your last two posts...



READ THE WORDS AND CLICK THE BLUE LINK


Hi John,

I created for you, your very own thread. When you tag a question onto a thread that already has over 200 replies and almost 4 hundred thousand views it can get kind of lost.

Here's the link to your thread and I've posted a lot of info to help you restore the original paint on your 1969 Oldsmobile 98


How to restore original paint on a 1969 Oldsmobile 98 <--CLICK THIS BLUE LINK



:xyxthumbs:
 
BigBillM said:
...my next project, a 1968 Dodge Charger that has been sitting in the garage for just over 30 years.

It has been my father in law's car since he was in high school, and it needs a few things to be road-worthy again, but for years he has believed that it needs new paint and body work.

He is going on vacation next week, and I intend on surprising him when he gets home with a car that looks better than the day he bought it.

I will post plenty of before/during/ and after photos once I start Tuesday after work. Since he doesn't know about this, I was only able to get a few pictures ahead of time, and they don't show too much.

Sorry for the quality of the pictures, once I get it outside I will take plenty more. I didn't even want to wipe away any of the dust yet. Hopefully when he sees what a nice car he actually has, he'll let me help him get it back on the road again.

.
.

Any updates on this one?

Certainly I'm not the only one that would enjoy seeing some 'after' shots of this car.

.
.
 
Getting ready to do 1967 chrysler new yorker. What is the replacement for the M80.
 
Getting ready to do 1967 chrysler new yorker.

What is the replacement for the M80.


There is no replacement for M80

Use Meguiar's #7 with a cotton terrycloth wash cloth.


Like I show here,

The #7 Rub Down Technique by Mike Phillips


Remember to take GREAT before pictures of your 1967 Chrysler New Yorker. Once you polish out the paint you can never go back in time to get the before pictures.

It's the before pictures that make the "after" pictures so powerful.....


:)
 
Thanks for sharing all of this information.

I used two application of Meguiar's #7 on my 87 911 followed up by polish and wax and the difference is amazing.

Pics in my gallery, but here is an example of before and after:

before210.JPG


after213.jpg





:)
 
hi mike. I have job restoring the paint on a Tucker Snow Cat. My question has to do with temperature. Snow is coming soon, will the products be less effective or not work at all in temps below 50 degrees?

Thanks Dan (hot sauce guy) Smith CD , D&M Detailing, Vail Colorado, 970 376 2964 [email protected]
 
***Update***

So far today, I have received 3 Private Messages on

How to restore single stage paint. I love it.


Most important...


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots

:Picture: :Picture: :Picture: :Picture: :Picture: :Picture: :Picture:


Why?


Because you cannot go back in time and get the before shots. Then it's just your WORD when you tell people how bad the paint was.


So take a few moments to stop whatever it is you're doing, read the above article for tips and then take some pictures.



Trust me on this.... been there... done that....


:)
 
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