Tips for using the Flex 3401

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thatick

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Hi there. So i was using my flex today for only the 2nd time and while doing the hood was easy, i am really struggling with controlling it while doing the doors and other vertical sections. I dont know if its the weight, power or my technique. Any tips on using the flex would be appreciated.
 
As I have been told and seen first hand.
#1-Use 2 hands
#2-Keep the pressure even. The pad must be kept flat against the paint. Otherwise it will try to walk away. On the vertical panels it can be interesting at first :) I still need a little more practice on the vertical panels myself.

See the following 2 links as well

This first link is some of the guys that helped me out when I was asking for tips before I got my Flex.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/22407-flex-3401-da-tips-please.html

In the second link Mike Phillips using the Flex shows you in one of the videos about proper stance and a few other things.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...me-makeover-flex-3401-wolfgang-smackdown.html
 
Practice, practice, practice thatick. I find the easiest position of the Flex is 10:00 and 4:00 (right handed), 2:00 and 8:00 (left handed). Are you using the trigger lock feature? That also makes it easier to hold on to with your trigger hand.
 
yeah i use the trigger lock. It just seemed really difficult to use while doing the doors on my mazda6. I just need to keep trying. Worked well on hood just hard to handle on side panels. I got frustrated and switched to my old pc and was even considering buying the new pc but i really would like to just be able to use the flex.
 
Keep at it for a bit. With a few more sessions I think you'll get comfortable with it. Just have to keep that pad flat with even pressure.
 
Try switching hands. I use both hands but I switch back and forth which one is leading, partly to reduce fatigue but also to gain leverage (and better control) on vertical surfaces depending on my stance.
 
You could consider sitting on a "scooter stool" as well. Gets you at just the right height for those vertical panels.
 
where do i get a scooter stool. Funny but ive never really seen on for sale



found some online. wow they are more than i thought they would be around 50.00
 
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You can also look into one called the Racatac Creeper.I just find myself seating on the floor and putting my legs under the car to get into some from of a comfortable position.I agree with one thing except for a DA your vertical panels take some getting used to getting them right.
 
I like the rolling chairs, in fact I was using this one on the Elky last night when using the 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer to edge the panels.

Kreepstool Rolling Utility Seat


It has wheel locks which help keep you in place because if you push hard against the car you roll away from it. :D


I often see guys recommend to be loose with the rotary buffer but if you want more control, bring the tool closer to your chest and flex your arm and shoulder muscles, that way your body has leverage over the tool, if you hold any tool away from you the distance of your arms will give the tool leverage over you.

Make sure you're using ample product so the surface is lubricated, when you lose lubrication the pad will become more grabby on the paint and you'll experience this and harder to control.

And as others said... hold the pad flat at all times.


:)
 
Fwiw. I bought a Goodyear Shop Mechanics Seat Stool W/ Trayhttp://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=3828567 at Sams for around $20.00 or so bucks not long ago. They may still have some on sale.

It's perfect for scooting around the vehicle waxing, and washing the body panels, tires/wheels etc.
 
thatick said:
Hi there. So i was using my flex today for only the 2nd time and while doing the hood was easy, i am really struggling with controlling it while doing the doors and other vertical sections. I dont know if its the weight, power or my technique. Any tips on using the flex would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hey man, I think a "grip" that might help you with control is the following:
(I am right handed by the way)

I hold the trigger side with my left hand, just like you probably do, but instead of simply grabbing the bail handle "loosely" so to speak, I essentially press my entire forearm against the top side of the Flex and grab the bail handle in kind of a "claw" fashion. The ridge of the bail handle hits right at the inside of my knuckles, and the machine is pointed sideways, which means I work up and down, but from a sideways position

I only do this on vertical panels, mainly because that is the only time I have found it necessary (or comfortable), so this may solve your control issue.
 
The forced rotation of the Flex 3401 makes it harder to control compared to a "true" DA, generally speaking.
 
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07 z-oh-6 said:
The forced rotation of the Flex 3401 makes it harder to control compared to a "true" DA or rotary, generally speaking.
Click to expand...
In my opinion and since i own all three type machine the Flex is so much easier to use on side panels then a Rotary any day of the week.Only time i feel the Rotary is slightly easier to use is when i'am using wool.
 
Harleyguy said:
In my opinion and since i own all three type machine the Flex is so much easier to use on side panels then a Rotary any day of the week.Only time i feel the Rotary is slightly easier to use is when i'am using wool.
Click to expand...
:doh:

Don't know what I was thinking! Flex 3401 is definitely easier to control than a rotary, but not a DA. I've tried all 3, and a rotary was the hardest to control for me, no doubt.
 
Mobolworks, thanks for the suggestion. Ill have to try your "claw grip" :)
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
The forced rotation of the Flex 3401 makes it harder to control compared to a "true" DA, generally speaking.
Click to expand...

Generally speaking you are correct. But just generally. Because generalized statements often result in questions that point out specifics should not be ignored when making them, like:

1. Which speeds you made those conclusions at? In other words, is Flex harder to control when compared to "true DA" (whatever that might be) when both are running at same "corrective level power" (which is not same speed)?

2. Is Flex in general harder to control for _everybody_? Or just for those that don't know how to handle it?
 
I have been spoiled by the Rupes 15 and now trying to learn the flex is tricky. It feels like the pad is so big. I notice people applying lots of pressure. I guess I need practice.
 
Let me suggest little to no pressure but watching closely to maintain 100% pad contact to the surface. Do this for a few section passes and you'll start to get the feel of it. The machine is self teaching in that if your technique is less than perfect, it starts to walk. IMO, I actually like this feature. Once comfortable, try adding back a little pressure - but 15 lbs of pressure is actually not much and is all that's needed when using the Flex-let the machine, pad and polish do all the work. Once you get the hang of it, you won't want to use anything else. :props:
 
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