Trashed Trailblazer 2: Work in progress
- Thread starter Hoytman
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #42
BobbyG
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- Dec 29, 2009
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Bill,
I don't think I've ever seen a car with this much decay even attempted. I am absolutely amazed/shocked at the results you've achieved. This clearly shows that combining the right skills, product, equipment and time what actually can be accomplished...
This isn't simply a restoration, it's more like a resurrection!
rops: rops:
Bravo Bill!!
I don't think I've ever seen a car with this much decay even attempted. I am absolutely amazed/shocked at the results you've achieved. This clearly shows that combining the right skills, product, equipment and time what actually can be accomplished...
This isn't simply a restoration, it's more like a resurrection!
rops: rops:Bravo Bill!!
CarolinasFinestDetailing
New member
- May 30, 2011
- 1,556
- 0
Wow....all I can say is wow!
Paul A.
New member
- Dec 21, 2007
- 5,276
- 1
I am incredibally impressed with that as well. Like others have said, i was absolutely wide eyed seeing the before and afters. As it started out, when i saw the befores, i thought to myself "this can't get too much better" and then proceeded to be STUNNED by the results. This post is downright inspirational and shows what can be done but is elusive to many of us.
We see many works of art by Mr. Phillips and many of the other pro's here but it's the Joe Plumbers like me that look at other Joe Plumber's work and dedication to achieving pro level work that blows me away! This is one of those instances.
That's why we're here and i thank you for sharing it.
We see many works of art by Mr. Phillips and many of the other pro's here but it's the Joe Plumbers like me that look at other Joe Plumber's work and dedication to achieving pro level work that blows me away! This is one of those instances.
That's why we're here and i thank you for sharing it.
soapboxpreacher
New member
- Feb 9, 2014
- 106
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Got any full car pictures of the finished car? The sections look awesome!!!
soapboxpreacher
New member
- Feb 9, 2014
- 106
- 0
It looks amazing!! How much time do you have invested in this project and what do you estimate your cost was?
- Thread starter
- #51
There is plenty of good information on this forum, via Mike Phillip's articles and videos, to put you on the right track to using a rotary. Not to mention that Mike is here for forum members when they have questions. Go for it and give it a try. Just do it on your own car or a panel from the junkyard and not someone else's car.
Bill,
I don't think I've ever seen a car with this much decay even attempted. I am absolutely amazed/shocked at the results you've achieved. This clearly shows that combining the right skills, product, equipment and time what actually can be accomplished...
This isn't simply a restoration, it's more like a resurrection!
Bravo Bill!!
Thanks for the kind words, Bob.
Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words, but it's not elusive to you or anyone else if you find a good mentor with knowledge they're willing to share with you and you put the time and effort into it.
Thanks for the kind words, but think of it this way. Had it not been for a good long distance mentor, Mike Phillips mainly, the student (me) could not have accomplished any of this.
Actually, I do not have any finished pictures yet because this is still a work in progress. My grandfather got very ill just after I finished the majority of the work in this project. I sort of dropped everything in order to 'be there' when I was needed. Grandpa passed last June and I simply had gotten too far behind on other things to finish this up.
I still need to fill in about 30 paint chips each on both the driver and passenger doors where someone stood up on the running boards to wash the top, or perform some sort of work or something. Anyway, they must have had a belt buckle on and they scratched the doors to pieces.
Just yesterday someone got the rear drivers door in the parking lot and now I have a large area of blue paint transfer on the door. Sort of reverse logic here...but I'm hoping (here's to hoping for such a rediculous thought) there was enough salt residue on te door to keep the blue paint from sticking to hard to my paint. Hopefully, it'll come off, but it looks like I've got another learning experience coming that I'll likely have to research, paint transfer removal. I'm sure there's information on here somewhere showing the best way to perform this task.
So, when I get the blue paint transfer off I'm going to repolish the entire Trailblazer, then I'm going to put Opti-Guard on it to see how well it will prevent this paint from re-oxidizing. I'm amazed at how fast (and how sorry) GM paint oxidizes on these particular vehicles. I've seen several that were not quite as bad as mine, but if they're left alone I can see them getting that bad.
Remember, this is still a work in progress. By that, I mean that I actually think this paint is toast, but I will be experimenting with Opti-Guard to see how long I can actually prevent a repaint...of which someone else will do at that time because I'll sell it at that point. But it'll be a test of sorts for us forum members to gain knowledge from. I'm sure we'll learn something from it.
You'll have to go back and read the links I provided at the beginning of the thread because I think I recorded my time on those threads. However, from memory I think I had somewhere around 22-30 hours in just the roof alone. I'm certain a true pro could have considerably reduced the hours.
The hood took me just a tad over 6 hours, and gain I think a pro could have reduced this.
I had to change work locations a couple of times, so that added some time as expected. However, with washing, taping, compounding/polishing/sealing, I'de conservatively say I had around 55-60 hours to get it where it's at now, but without looking at the other thread links that's just a best guess...and I'm not yet finished.
I didn't really have any true professional grade products to use before I joined this forum, so naturally I ended up buying a lot of products to start this project, more than I actually needed or used.
So, I'll just estimate from the products I did use (pads included, tape, etc.)and give you an approximate cost of about $115. Had I already had pads it would have only cost me 2.5 rolls of 3M tape, 1.5 bottle of compound, and some polish...approximately $60.
You have to realize that the oxidation combined with a wool pad simply devoured the compound making the grunt work quite a bit more expensive. I probably used less then 6 ounces of polish though I'd have to check the bottle to be certain.
Thanks for the kind words.
Actually, you bring something up that really concerned me about how I described doing this project because I didn't want to mislead anyone, so I tried to be very careful with my words. Here is what I said...
Oh yeah...I forgot to tell you guys there's something else special about all of this thread.
My first time...
Posting a project with pictures.
My first...
Detail on paint...and black paint no less.
My first...
Using a rotary on paint.
Got the
In other words, this was my first attempt at machine paint correction of any kind on paint...and it was on black paint. Also, my first attempt at using a rotary on paint.
So, my point in mentioning that it was black paint was to highlight what is possible for a newbie. If a person employs the many tips and techniques (changing the action of the machine...going from a rotary for grunt work, to finishing with a Dual Action machine for a hologram free finish) from articles and video's on this great forum they too can share in success. It's a testament to having a great teacher as black paint will show my mistakes.
I have used the rotary numerous times on gel-coat details, though I still probably only have less than 50 hours with a rotary polisher. At first I'm sure I didn't know what I was doing, but I improved my technique on boats because the many articles and video's by Mike Phillips and others were there for me. So, it was time to put what I had learned and apply those skills to paint.
I still have a long way to go with regard to using the rotary, but let's not forget I proceeded slowly and cautiously, focusing on the task at hand.
My main objective, aside from making my Trailblazer look better, was to highlight what the combination of a good teacher and student can accomplish. That is...if you pay close attention and can comprehend what's being instructed, you too can be successful when using a rotary and you don't have to fear it.
I didn't fear using the rotary nor did I fear trying to finish with it, but I knew that I could be successful and avoid holograms by changing the action of the tool and using the dual action polisher, as is recommended by Mike Phillips so many times before on this forum. I accomplished everything I set out to do thanks to this forum and its members.
- Thread starter
- #52
I went back and tried to find at least a partial answer for you...
HateSwirls
New member
- Jun 24, 2013
- 3,632
- 0
Where to begin......
First look at the car I was like no way I'd tackle this one. Lol
The paint was one of the worst I've seen , ever.
No shine, just dead paint is what I saw.
Then little by little I saw how you started to bring it back from the dead, really, the paint looked like you had no shot at even making it shine even after watering it down with a hose.
I'm impressed with your work but more so your courage to take on something like this.
I applaud you man, to say you made it look better would be an understatement x 1000
Goes to show one doesn't have to have a high dollar machine, good products and a heart for detailing is much more important.
You're the man of the week my friend IMO
Congratulations on a job well done:dblthumb2::dblthumb2:
:urtheman:
First look at the car I was like no way I'd tackle this one. Lol
The paint was one of the worst I've seen , ever.
No shine, just dead paint is what I saw.
Then little by little I saw how you started to bring it back from the dead, really, the paint looked like you had no shot at even making it shine even after watering it down with a hose.
I'm impressed with your work but more so your courage to take on something like this.
I applaud you man, to say you made it look better would be an understatement x 1000
Goes to show one doesn't have to have a high dollar machine, good products and a heart for detailing is much more important.
You're the man of the week my friend IMO
Congratulations on a job well done:dblthumb2::dblthumb2:
:urtheman:
Vegas Transplant
Active member
- Oct 11, 2011
- 4,447
- 3
Time to put my boots on and saddle up.
I had a wonderful visit. Thank you and the Mrs. for the great dinner and conversation. Maybe next time we can get to spin a wheel on some paint or aluminum. I'll
Be sure to have everything on board soon. Just haven't spent enough time at home yet to get things organized.
Keep up the good work and you'll make your mark in the industry.
Happy trails...
I had a wonderful visit. Thank you and the Mrs. for the great dinner and conversation. Maybe next time we can get to spin a wheel on some paint or aluminum. I'll
Be sure to have everything on board soon. Just haven't spent enough time at home yet to get things organized.
Keep up the good work and you'll make your mark in the industry.
Happy trails...
- Thread starter
- #56
Since I've been so busy doing other things the time passing has allowed me the opportunity to neglect this paint quite a bit and I think for testing purposes this journey will be interesting to many of you when I get a chance to update this thread with more pictures.
Hoping to update soon.
Hoping to update soon.
RTexasF
New member
- Jun 2, 2006
- 2,582
- 0
I've no idea how I missed this remarkable return from the grave project. Quite honestly it is THE best thing I've ever seen on here......period. I had no idea that such results were even possible with a canvas that was so far gone.
Your perseverance, skill, and documentation are to be admired, and should be! :bowdown:
Your perseverance, skill, and documentation are to be admired, and should be! :bowdown:
- Thread starter
- #60
A little update to this thread.
Below was some of my opening comments in this thread.
As you can see above, I knew for this SUV's paint to be perfect it would have to be re-painted. That was why I said this thread wouldn't be your typical show-n-shine, but a thread where myself as well as all forum members could learn something...especially newbies like me.
TuscaroraDave can vouch for the comments below because he and I talked extensively as to how to proceed after some testing via time...time of some neglect of the paint, but not total neglect.
I told Dave because of personal reasons that I wouldn't have much time to care for this vehicle after the initial compounding/polishing. That would allow me time to see what would happen to the paint over time.
We also discussed coating the SUV, and it's Clear Coat failure and fracturing, with Optimum Opti-Coat as a way to simply help preserve the paint and keep it shiny for the rest of it's short life. Meaning it won't be but a few more years I'll replace this vehicle. Dave's recommendation would be later confirmed by a phone call to get Optimum's recommendation as well. Good advice Dave.rops:
UPDATE 10/19/2015
Findings: Clear coat failure is exactly that, failed paint...re-paint is the ONLY way to permanently FIX it. Of course, I already knew this, but re-paint wasn't and still isn't something I'm willing to do for this vehicle. In some rare cases it can be made to look better, but it's certainly only temporary at best and this was the goal in this case. Remember? My goal was only to make this paint shine again. All other knowledge learned during this experience was a side benefit of the process of obtaining that goal...shiny paint...shiny but certain defects remain.
The fracturing of the hood has indeed reared it's ugly head as well as the cloudiness. I didn't take any pictures because I didn't feel it was worth it. I did feel it relevant to mention it had returned to its fractured/failed state.
Some conclusions from previous compounding and polishing.
I feel that M105/M205 is either more oily or has more fillers than most pro's will lead you to believe. In fact, I've basically come to that conclusion with many other brands of compounds/polishes. Perhaps that's a bold statement, but I made it and until I see otherwise...I'll stick to it.
I made no attempt to strip the paint after compounding polishing back then. I simply applied Opti-seal to seal it up.
I've also noticed that the rubber window trim oxidizing and leaching down onto the doors is what caused the doors to return somewhat to their previous oxidized state...though it wasn't truly oxidation but that same black residue leaching down onto the doors like the black residue you get when cleaning your tires or wipers. My wife and I have notice many Trailblazers that have hull oxidized looking paint. Some was true oxidation, but mostly I think it's window trim residue or clear coat failure depending on what part of the SUV you're looking at. Doors, rubber residue, then the horizontals of the roof and hood are likely failing clear coat.
I've recently re-polished with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and/or Polish. That took the paint back to the nice shine you seen in the above pictures. Although I didn't plan on getting as aggressive as before, for obvious reasons (saving my paint), some tel-tale signs of fracturing and stains are again visible. I'm going to live with that. Again, my main goal of this thread was to get the vehicle to shine and hopefully learn something in the process.
The plan was to continue as Tuscarora had suggested...to continue with Opti-coat. However, I've run into a slight snag.
Meanwhile, a decision is being made whether to continue with the coating or to simply scrap that idea and use another sealant and maintain it from there.
If I decide to use a regular sealant, then this thread is finished and you'll have the answers or at least some information as to how to proceed with a vehicle with clear coat failure when re-painting isn't an option.
If I decide to go ahead and coat the SUV with Opti-coat then this thread will continue and the focus will change to how long the coating can maintain the paint before and absolute repaint...if I keep the suv that long.
I'm not going to get crazy at this point with taking pictures, but I am taking a few for documentation purposes for this thread, which I will post later.
Just received a suggestion for my little snag. Now I've got a decision to make. Will update this thread again after I make a decision.
Below was some of my opening comments in this thread.
As you can see above, I knew for this SUV's paint to be perfect it would have to be re-painted. That was why I said this thread wouldn't be your typical show-n-shine, but a thread where myself as well as all forum members could learn something...especially newbies like me.
TuscaroraDave can vouch for the comments below because he and I talked extensively as to how to proceed after some testing via time...time of some neglect of the paint, but not total neglect.
I told Dave because of personal reasons that I wouldn't have much time to care for this vehicle after the initial compounding/polishing. That would allow me time to see what would happen to the paint over time.
We also discussed coating the SUV, and it's Clear Coat failure and fracturing, with Optimum Opti-Coat as a way to simply help preserve the paint and keep it shiny for the rest of it's short life. Meaning it won't be but a few more years I'll replace this vehicle. Dave's recommendation would be later confirmed by a phone call to get Optimum's recommendation as well. Good advice Dave.
rops:UPDATE 10/19/2015
Findings: Clear coat failure is exactly that, failed paint...re-paint is the ONLY way to permanently FIX it. Of course, I already knew this, but re-paint wasn't and still isn't something I'm willing to do for this vehicle. In some rare cases it can be made to look better, but it's certainly only temporary at best and this was the goal in this case. Remember? My goal was only to make this paint shine again. All other knowledge learned during this experience was a side benefit of the process of obtaining that goal...shiny paint...shiny but certain defects remain.
The fracturing of the hood has indeed reared it's ugly head as well as the cloudiness. I didn't take any pictures because I didn't feel it was worth it. I did feel it relevant to mention it had returned to its fractured/failed state.
Some conclusions from previous compounding and polishing.
I feel that M105/M205 is either more oily or has more fillers than most pro's will lead you to believe. In fact, I've basically come to that conclusion with many other brands of compounds/polishes. Perhaps that's a bold statement, but I made it and until I see otherwise...I'll stick to it.
I made no attempt to strip the paint after compounding polishing back then. I simply applied Opti-seal to seal it up.
I've also noticed that the rubber window trim oxidizing and leaching down onto the doors is what caused the doors to return somewhat to their previous oxidized state...though it wasn't truly oxidation but that same black residue leaching down onto the doors like the black residue you get when cleaning your tires or wipers. My wife and I have notice many Trailblazers that have hull oxidized looking paint. Some was true oxidation, but mostly I think it's window trim residue or clear coat failure depending on what part of the SUV you're looking at. Doors, rubber residue, then the horizontals of the roof and hood are likely failing clear coat.
I've recently re-polished with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and/or Polish. That took the paint back to the nice shine you seen in the above pictures. Although I didn't plan on getting as aggressive as before, for obvious reasons (saving my paint), some tel-tale signs of fracturing and stains are again visible. I'm going to live with that. Again, my main goal of this thread was to get the vehicle to shine and hopefully learn something in the process.
The plan was to continue as Tuscarora had suggested...to continue with Opti-coat. However, I've run into a slight snag.
Meanwhile, a decision is being made whether to continue with the coating or to simply scrap that idea and use another sealant and maintain it from there.
If I decide to use a regular sealant, then this thread is finished and you'll have the answers or at least some information as to how to proceed with a vehicle with clear coat failure when re-painting isn't an option.
If I decide to go ahead and coat the SUV with Opti-coat then this thread will continue and the focus will change to how long the coating can maintain the paint before and absolute repaint...if I keep the suv that long.
I'm not going to get crazy at this point with taking pictures, but I am taking a few for documentation purposes for this thread, which I will post later.
Just received a suggestion for my little snag. Now I've got a decision to make. Will update this thread again after I make a decision.