Wax won't come off car

Collinites can be tough when you have applied too much. I have not used the Fleetwaxes, either the 885 paste or the 870 liquid, but I do have experience with 845, 476 and 850, and 920. They don't necessarily behave well when they are laid down too thick.

I will reiterate what others have said and try to reapply some more product to a small section to loosen it up and then immediately remove. Like does dissolve like, after all. Best of luck. This sounds like it's going to be a chore. Make sure you have adequate beverages on hand.
 
Just leave it on there and take your jeep offroading in the woods like it was made to do.

Either the tree branches or the collinite will win that battle...
 
Apply some more of the Wax to just
a small (12"X12") area...at a time.

This is what's known as an application of:
"Like dissolves Like"


Bob
 
I would try taking some more of the same product you originally applied and reapply to a small section. Then buff it off immediately. The reapplication of fresh product should soften up what's already on there.

Apply some more of the Wax to just
a small (12"X12") area...at a time.

This is what's known as an application of:
"Like dissolves Like"


Bob



I too would recommend trying to re-liquefy the current wax with the same product.

Sometimes like dissolves like will work. The solvents in the fresh wax just may work to dissolve and re-liquefy the dried wax on your Jeep.


This is a non-cleaning wax, or what I call a finishing wax. Waxes like these also tend to be what are called hard or heavy waxes. Has to do with their molecular make-up. Key thing is, once they dry they dry hard. This one is kind of like the old Meguiar's M16 Professional Paste Wax which was a hard wax.

If applying fresh wax won't dissolve the old wax to enable you to wipe the whole mess off then you're going to have to,

1. Bite the bullet and carefully wipe the dried wax off probably using cotton terry cloth as the stoutness of the fibers will help you to remove the dried wax.

2. Use a strong solvent to dissolve the wax. This could be a straight solvent like mineral spirits or lacquer thinner or a compound or polish or even cleaner/wax that contains some form of Stoddard Solvent or Naptha.


If this wax was new to you, here's an article I wrote to help people AVOID this mistake when using waxes that are new to them. Of course a person would have to know where this article is located to read it. I wrote it so I know where it's at. :D

A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you




Good luck with this mess and keep us updated as to how you finally remove it as your experience may help someone in the future.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions. So, I'll definitely try by reapplying the wax and then remove with the buffer. Buffer should be here by this afternoon, will try then and post some updated pics and info.
 
Apply some more of the Wax to just
a small (12"X12") area...at a time.

This is what's known as an application of:
"Like dissolves Like"


Bob

Bob, you beat me to it. I'm a major proponent of 'like removes like.' Especially if he has a buffer, it will make applying the fresh coat of wax and removing the hardened layer a lot easier.
 
Bob, you beat me to it. I'm a major proponent of 'like removes like.' Especially if he has a buffer, it will make applying the fresh coat of wax and removing the hardened layer a lot easier.

Should I apply the new wax with the buffer also? Spread a little onto the foam pad and apply? Then use a clean foam pad to remove it?
 
Apply with the buffer and remove by hand with a MF or cotton towel as Mike suggests.
 
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Is it me or the wax and paint application is similar?
 
I won't lie, I've used too much wax in the past (when I frist started), and I found it wasn't any harder to remove. As it's black I'd let it sit in a parking lot for an hour or two (to soften the wax) and use some quality microfibers (you'll need up to 2 towels per panel) to knock it down or a PC-7424 with a microfiber bonnets over a 5.5inch or 4inch finishing pads.
 
UPDATE:

Ok, so the orbital - is amazing! It was real easy to get the wax off. What I did was use a 6" foam waxing pad and added wax to it, then I sprayed the area (1 panel at a time) very lightly with Griots spray-on car wash just to give it a little lubricant since the wax was dried on hard. Then just went over it, very lightly, didn't apply any pressure and it took maybe 2-5 passes for it to basically re-wax with a really thin nice coat. I waited about 2-3 minutes, then buffed it off with a microfiber cloth, very easily. It took maybe 2 hours to do the whole car, really not bad at all, it was impossible by hand.

The car now looks amazing, there's a few crevices that I still need to go at, but will do that later.

Here's a pic now, the camera has some spots on the lense itself, but in person it looks really nice.

xpTPFGz.jpg



Before I waxed it, I had applied CG Black Light, so I have that, the wax, and after I used some spray on CG V7 polish. It's looking good! Also, I know the directions on the wax say not to use it on glass, but I did the windows... and it worked great! Thanks everyone for all the help!
 
Well done sir! Lookin' great now - glad everything worked out for you...
 
UPDATE:

Ok, so the orbital - is amazing! It was real easy to get the wax off. What I did was use a 6" foam waxing pad and added wax to it, then I sprayed the area (1 panel at a time) very lightly with Griots spray-on car wash just to give it a little lubricant since the wax was dried on hard. Then just went over it, very lightly, didn't apply any pressure and it took maybe 2-5 passes for it to basically re-wax with a really thin nice coat. I waited about 2-3 minutes, then buffed it off with a microfiber cloth, very easily. It took maybe 2 hours to do the whole car, really not bad at all, it was impossible by hand.

The car now looks amazing, there's a few crevices that I still need to go at, but will do that later.

Here's a pic now, the camera has some spots on the lense itself, but in person it looks really nice.

xpTPFGz.jpg



Before I waxed it, I had applied CG Black Light, so I have that, the wax, and after I used some spray on CG V7 polish. It's looking good! Also, I know the directions on the wax say not to use it on glass, but I did the windows... and it worked great! Thanks everyone for all the help!

So you didn't learn your lesson about following the directions? :nomore:

It looks like it turned out ok for you. :xyxthumbs:
 
I've spread a bunch of 885. It's no different than 476, probably the same stuff in a different tin, IMO. Don't be afraid of it just 'cause you had to learn the hard way how to apply it properly. Just remember thin, thin, thin to win. If you feel you have no more product on your applicator, just dab it on a window for a true picture. Applied properly, you can remove it the next day without breaking a sweat.

Bill
 
Collinite Waxes are awesome IMO. That being said if you put on a lot of wax it is a biatch to remove. That is Collinite's Achile's heel. Based on your photo...you put on way too much. I put on too much 915 on a small section (bad lighting so I could not gauge the amount I put on at my friends garage). My point being it was very hard to remove. Looking at your picture....you put on way more than I did. Maybe an ISP solution could help remove that...I do not know...but at least give that a try. Or use the DA to remove the wax...maybe a White pad and start all over.

Good luck and please let us know so we can all avoid something like this in the future.
 
jeepz I read your post update. Thank you for sharing your information. This is great information for future use with Collinite. I have 476, 915 and 845. They are great waxes, however, can be finicky at times....again, thanks for the heads up how to remove a thick coat of Collinite waxes.
 
To be honest once I stopped laughing, I said to mysef...sucks to be him. Try quick detailer?
 
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