what's the last car care/detailing video you've just watched?

DFB said:
My posts have been in reference to the nozzle tip orifice, but you are correct, a foam cannon also has an orifice which can be changed. In both cases, the orifice affects how the motor and pump work.

For a nozzle, if you go too small to boost pressure, you risk overworking the motor and pump, often it will trip a breaker but if you continue doing this, it will blow the thing up. Going too big will relieve the pressure and boost flow, but it doesn't pose the same risk to the machine. Again, this is different to the spray pattern or angle of the nozzle.

For the basic un-shrouded nozzles, you can't swap out a nozzle orifice, rather you replace the whole nozzle. On a shrouded nozzle, you can swap out the nozzle tip. When I did my wall mount with a KHD/10, I found I had to open up the nozzle tips to dial back the pressure, going from a 4.0 to 4.5.







For foam cannon, it works in a similar way. If you use a small orifice on a powerful machine, you will be tripping breakers and burning up your machine. Go too big though and it won't foam properly. The foam cannon orifice is located behind the inlet fitting, to remove/clean/replace, it requires removal of said inlet fitting and to gain access. You really shouldn't need to mess with these unless you buy a different pressure washer. Most low to mid-market machines use the 1.1 orifice, for higher flow machines you should have the 1.25 - 1.5 fitted.





I know most don't like him, but the below link is a very good pressure washer setup resource -
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Again excellent info. I run regular spray tips so i didnt know you could change orfices in the covered tips.

I knew about the foam cannon as i changed my mtm to 1.25 for my gas karcher runs 2.5 gpm. But my little electric ar blue is only 1.4 gpm i think, it still foams fine

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I watched about 6 seconds of some dude trying to explain what a grit gaurd was.
When I realized I had another 59 minutes and 54 seconds I turned it off
Junkman2000 is much better at explaining things
 
DFB said:
The master at work on his own car....................................

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Good video, I like how he described the product leaving some tac behind, so its not slick, slippery or shiny. This is exactly what I was trying describe with Cockpit Premium on steering wheels, they're not sticky, they're just nice and grippy. There is nothing worse than doing an interior detail and getting in the car the next day and the steering wheel is too slippery.
 
Big Dave said:
Good video, I like how he described the product leaving some tac behind, so its not slick, slippery or shiny. This is exactly what I was trying describe with Cockpit Premium on steering wheels, they're not sticky, they're just nice and grippy. There is nothing worse than doing an interior detail and getting in the car the next day and the steering wheel is too slippery.
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My father is a smoker, every time he borrows my car, it ends up with a tacky/sticky residue from the nicotine on the steering wheel, shifter, door handles, keys.
 
DFB said:
My father is a smoker, every time he borrows my car, it ends up with a tacky/sticky residue from the nicotine on the steering wheel, shifter, door handles, keys.
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I'm pretty sure the previous owner of the FJ was a smoker too, it had a hint of that odour in it when I got it, mostly hidden under whatever the dealer flooded it with. I did the aircon decontamination bomb the same as in the video, but mine was from Einzett, I also bought the one that comes with the 50cm extension hose to feed down all the vents, to really kill the odour. For about a week after it smelt very disinfected.
 
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DFB said:
My father is a smoker, every time he borrows my car, it ends up with a tacky/sticky residue from the nicotine on the steering wheel, shifter, door handles, keys.
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I'm surprised you allow ANYONE to smoke in any of your cars

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DFB said:
He wouldn't dare smoke in one of my cars, but the nicotine residue from his hands ends up on whatever he touches.
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I had a feeling that was going to be the answer. My sister in law smokes, and denies smoking in the car, but when I point out all the ash inside the car she just gets annoyed with me. It's a filthy habit, but it is an addiction, and a legal one at that. Doesn't mean I have to give them a pass though.
 

I've used fiero a few times now. It is oily which suprised me but you can work it down and it wipes(circles) off very nice. Leale is nearly effortless however IME.
 
I like this guy's review. This is just something about his delivery that is not like the YT reviewers.
 
DFB said:
This is a common misconception, the angle or spray pattern of the nozzle does not influence the pressure leaving the gun. The exception to that would be with 15 and below angles, which doesn't apply to car washing anyway. The only reason why you would go below 40 degrees would be to narrow the spray coverage for when cleaning wheels, in which case a 25-degree is perfectly fine.
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I actually use the Orange 15 degree nozzle about 95% of the time I use the power washer for anything vehicle related. I love the amount of punch it provides especially for cleaning wheels and also for pre rinsing a dirty vehicle before a wash.

Post wash I also prefer it over the 25 & 40.
I borderline dislike the 40 degree nozzle. It feels inadequate at times. The lack of punch feels like a big drawback for me + the garden hose easily trumps it when it comes to water output resulting in me almost never using the 40 degree nozzle tip.
 
Featuring one of the best sport sedans ever made, the E39 M5, this is an excellent video on engine bay cleaning.


I've said this before, but his content is so well done. I just wish he hadn't fallen for the Giraffe pressure washer thing, I'm pretty sure they sent it to him. For someone so professional, it's a little jarring to see him lumbering around with that goofy gun setup.

Completely unrelated, his shoes get my approval.
 
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