Who here DOES NOT like rinseless washes?

VP Mark said:
If you are having issues getting good results from a rinse less wash, either your technique is off or the vehicle is just too dirty. Having done hundreds close to thousands of them I can tell you that when your technique gets top notch your results will blow away 2bm and will save you tons of time, effort, and product.

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Provided you use all the correct techniques for both methods, the question becomes, which is safer? I tend to think it would be the traditional wash unless someone tells me that the rinseless will melt away the dirt and grim on contact. With a good foam and a rinse, you are pretty much knocking out much of what can cause the scratches off your paint before you even touch it.
Dont get me wrong, rinseless does provide the lubrication to minimize scratching to a certain point, but i still think the traditional wash with foam and rinse is safer.
 
c8n said:
Dont get me wrong, rinseless does provide the lubrication to minimize scratching to a certain point, but i still think the traditional wash with foam and rinse is safer.
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but how safe does it have to be?...I know of a 2.5 year old car that has never seen a hose and the paint is clear perfect using rinseless....As many said above, it's not "either - or" both water and RW are good, and have their place. I have found -properly done (GDWM)- that there is no scratch that will manifest itself over time with RW...
 
I have zero desire to use rinseless washes. Yes, I've tried it.

On a side note, generally speaking, does a bucket of rinseless wash have more lubricity than bucket of traditional wash?
 
It's not that I don't like rinseless, but for me it just takes longer and in the end, I'm using a hose for the wheels and tires. If it is very hot out and no shade is available, I will do a rinseless on just the paint and glass one panel at a time.
 
I finally got my paint to a point where I'm ready to try GDWM. I live in a high dust high pollen environment. So the day after I wash my truck is already dirty just from sitting outside all night. If GDWM is as easy and quick as it's touted to be then I'm all for it. Will be doing my first test run Friday. One thing I've never actually seen on YouTube is someone actually clean the wheels. That's my big question mark at this point. Any hints?
 
As long as my car isn't filthy I can live with a rinseless. I find it quicker and easier, especially with the GDWM. Don't mind washing some extra towels.
 
c8n said:
Provided you use all the correct techniques for both methods, the question becomes, which is safer? I tend to think it would be the traditional wash unless someone tells me that the rinseless will melt away the dirt and grim on contact. With a good foam and a rinse, you are pretty much knocking out much of what can cause the scratches off your paint before you even touch it.
Dont get me wrong, rinseless does provide the lubrication to minimize scratching to a certain point, but i still think the traditional wash with foam and rinse is safer.
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This is a good point. If you have a soft painted garage queen that is completely corrected, 2bm might be a safer bet. I only 2bm when I have a vehicle that is extremely dirty, or has lots of LSP on it that I need to strip before applying a coating.

Another side of this is are you a business owner, or a car owner? If you run a business you need to find the most economical, highest quality, and most efficient method to get washes done, and for me that is rinseless wash. I've run into perfect paint only a few times in my detailing career, and if it is that well kept a rinseless wash is more than sufficient to get it clean without marring.

A lot of people love the experience of the water pouring off the vehicle, big suds flying all over the place, etc.. Not me, this isn't a weekend pleasure wash, this is my third vehicle of the day, its 90+ outside, and I've got an Opti-Coat job to start early in the morning(examples here). Its time to get this stuff washed and looking amazing. Grab the gallon of ONR.
 
VP Mark said:
This is a good point. If you have a soft painted garage queen that is completely corrected, 2bm might be a safer bet. I only 2bm when I have a vehicle that is extremely dirty, or has lots of LSP on it that I need to strip before applying a coating.

Another side of this is are you a business owner, or a car owner? If you run a business you need to find the most economical, highest quality, and most efficient method to get washes done, and for me that is rinseless wash. I've run into perfect paint only a few times in my detailing career, and if it is that well kept a rinseless wash is more than sufficient to get it clean without marring.

A lot of people love the experience of the water pouring off the vehicle, big suds flying all over the place, etc.. Not me, this isn't a weekend pleasure wash, this is my third vehicle of the day, its 90+ outside, and I've got an Opti-Coat job to start early in the morning(examples here). Its time to get this stuff washed and looking amazing. Grab the gallon of ONR.
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Good post.

I'd be hesitant to use it on a heavily soiled car, but for maintenance washes it is the way to go.

Have you guys ever tried washing a black car out in the middle of the day in the sun? Water spots from hell with a traditional wash..

Rinseless on the other hand, problem solved.
Both techniques have pros and cons, use whatever you prefer.

Speaking of rinseless, can't wait for my gallon of duragloss rinseless wash w/aquawax to show up tomorrow!
 
VP Mark said:
This is a good point. If you have a soft painted garage queen that is completely corrected, 2bm might be a safer bet. I only 2bm when I have a vehicle that is extremely dirty, or has lots of LSP on it that I need to strip before applying a coating.

Another side of this is are you a business owner, or a car owner? If you run a business you need to find the most economical, highest quality, and most efficient method to get washes done, and for me that is rinseless wash. I've run into perfect paint only a few times in my detailing career, and if it is that well kept a rinseless wash is more than sufficient to get it clean without marring.

A lot of people love the experience of the water pouring off the vehicle, big suds flying all over the place, etc.. Not me, this isn't a weekend pleasure wash, this is my third vehicle of the day, its 90+ outside, and I've got an Opti-Coat job to start early in the morning(examples here). Its time to get this stuff washed and looking amazing. Grab the gallon of ONR.
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If i had to do this for a living... im with you 110%
 
glen e said:
but how safe does it have to be?...I know of a 2.5 year old car that has never seen a hose and the paint is clear perfect using rinseless....As many said above, it's not "either - or" both water and RW are good, and have their place. I have found -properly done (GDWM)- that there is no scratch that will manifest itself over time with RW...
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So safe that i would not have to do any more paint corrections... ever... other than those 1 or 2 spot corrections a year resulting from rock chip and the parking lot a-holes.
 
VP Mark said:
If you are having issues getting good results from a rinse less wash, either your technique is off or the vehicle is just too dirty. Having done hundreds close to thousands of them I can tell you that when your technique gets top notch your results will (4)blow away 2bm and will save you (1)tons of time, (2)effort, and (3)product.

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I get the same results, rinseless or traditional. And i know that both methods, when performed properly, will exhibit very little to no marring. That wasn't the problem.

1) Rinseless takes the same amount of time when using proper methods
2) Rinseless takes just as much, if not more effort. Especially when washing soiled areas such as the exhaust tips and rims.
3) I use just as much product going rinseless or traditional wash. ONR 0.5oz per gal vs. OCWash 0.5oz per gal.
4) And how does a proper rinseless wash "BLOW AWAY" the results of a proper traditional wash?

Not trying to convince anyone. These are just my findings.
 
For me personally I don't like the rinseless process itself. I'm not talking about the results but the process.

I don't like doing a panel at a time...presoak, wash, then dry. Then do the next panel and so on. I like doing the whole car before going to the next step. I don't like constantly switching process steps.

For winter I use the local touchless wash. I put down a sealant in the late fall that will not be removed by the touchless car washes. DG 105. Bullet proof. I got lazy last winter and abandoned my usual rinseless routine. I was pleasantly surprised this spring when doing my spring clay/ polish/seal routine to find that DG 105 was not removed by the touchless car wash. I only used the wash process and did not use the wax option at the car wash. The paint this spring looked great.
 
I did a rinse less wash for the first time a couple of days ago, it really came out nice but took long, I would have been better off just washing it by hand but I did find out it is possaible to wash my car without water so in the winter time I now know I can keep my car clean even on the coldest days.
 
Guess I don't understand how a rinseless wash takes longer. I can do my CRZ in about 45-1 hr and that's doing the whole car and tires/wheels with the left over. From what I've read I can understand why the GD method can take a bit longer but bringing up having to wash the mf towels doesn't factor into the time it takes to wash the car though. As far as heavily soiled cars go, well what I'd do in this case is make up a bit more cleaning product and rinse water and keep more on my Aqua sponge. Now, if the car is VERY dirty, caked on dirt, I would head to the quarter carwash and rinse it down first and then head back home and knock it out with the rinseless wash. I would love to be around someone who doesn't like the rinseless wash, mainly because I would like to see how they do it and hear why they don't like it, I just don't understand any of this!

Oh and Silverfox, you can do the entire car using rinseless and then dry it, I do because its in the garage and that's key. As far as pre-soak, well I've only done this in the winter time because of all the salt on the car but in reality you could do what I mentioned above on a dirty car and/or VERY dirty car too.

You can watch all the vids on YouTube all you want but doing the rinseless wash for yourself in the flesh is the key for anyone on the fence, once you see it/try it, its a whole new world, I will never do a traditional wash ever again (no access to a hose but even still, no need)

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I AM a fan of the rinseless car wash method. Its a great time saver and quite efficient.... i feel it has its place in the arsenal just like anything else..... mainly for well maintained cars that have low-mild soil levels on them.

When a vehicle is over the 10 day mark [general guideline of course, which is weather dependent also] there are so many more contaminants [gunk/grime/bugs et etc] layerd upon itself that i, personally, dont find as effectively removed with the rinseless wash method.

You can definitely do the hybrid rinseless/bucket wash.... but i can literally wash and dry my whole car, including wheels, and a qd spray, in 40 min flat that once it gets to medium soil i just cannon + 2bw
 
I like rinseless using Ultima WW if the car isnt super dirty..I do it the gary dean method. I have no idea how it takes you longer to do rinseless then reg hose wash. I can be 100% done in about 45min with rinseless and takes me about 2hrs with a hose wash to dry it fully and get all the water out of the seams with my blower and such. Rinseless is so much faster. I will say I did not like ONR at all but with the Ultima I like doing rinseless
 
anonymoususer said:
I get the same results, rinseless or traditional. And i know that both methods, when performed properly, will exhibit very little to no marring. That wasn't the problem.

1) Rinseless takes the same amount of time when using proper methods
2) Rinseless takes just as much, if not more effort. Especially when washing soiled areas such as the exhaust tips and rims.
3) I use just as much product going rinseless or traditional wash. ONR 0.5oz per gal vs. OCWash 0.5oz per gal.
4) And how does a proper rinseless wash "BLOW AWAY" the results of a proper traditional wash?

Not trying to convince anyone. These are just my findings.
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It blows it away because the polymers used to lubricate the paint give an amazing shine and appearance. I have had many people come out after I'm done with the wash step thinking ive already polished and waxed. I tell them about onr and they go make an order. I've converted almost every client I have that washes their own vehicle by hand to onr washes.

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beachkidcb said:
I AM a fan of the rinseless car wash method. Its a great time saver and quite efficient.... i feel it has its place in the arsenal just like anything else..... mainly for well maintained cars that have low-mild soil levels on them.

When a vehicle is over the 10 day mark [general guideline of course, which is weather dependent also] there are so many more contaminants [gunk/grime/bugs et etc] layerd upon itself that i, personally, dont find as effectively removed with the rinseless wash method.

You can definitely do the hybrid rinseless/bucket wash.... but i can literally wash and dry my whole car, including wheels, and a qd spray, in 40 min flat that once it gets to medium soil i just cannon + 2bw
Click to expand...

VP Mark said:
It blows it away because the polymers used to lubricate the paint give an amazing shine and appearance.

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Click to expand...

That reminds me, i still use rinseless was with my honeydew for that EXACT lubrocity and water conditionig that VP Mark is talking about..... I mix them in the foam gun....Its an incredible combo

:dblthumb2:
 
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