Lesson Learned... Still Not Over It..

WOW... where to start. :rolleyes:

Now I don't detail full time, (and thankfully don't need to). But my GOD!

How in the world a full time shop could be in the position to have a CUSTOMER come into the shop and show them not only HOW to do a job but DO IT BETTER is freaking beyond me! :eek:

I consider myself for instance a darned good handyman. I studied architecture in school and have a fairly comprehensive grasp of home building. Doing work around the house is second nature, I am detail orientated, and I have a ton of tools. But I know how to work within my limits. I just replaced a water heater for instance that has copper piping and sweat joints. Replaced everything from new ball valves to a recirculation system and even a new expansion tank. However I'm not going to put a new roof on, even though I know how it SHOULD be put on therefore I'll supervise and watch to see they are not cutting corners during the job and hopefully learn something along the way. Then if I *DO* happen to learn something along the way I consider that a win.

Yet if I don't know how is SHOULD be done I certainly wouldn't even attempt to do it, or say a word along the way. Seems these guys really don't know how things SHOULD be done when the paint system changes from one to another, but are taking the approach that they just treat everything the same and that'll be good enough.

As good as D300 (and the system) is it isn't the only thing out there, especially on paint that has proven to be 'soft'. Then to not use a finishing polish on it is just stupid AND lazy. But moreover what gripes my arse is "no paint readings" and jumping right on wet sanding! Now I'm not saying it COULD have been corrected without sanding, but stranger things have happened. I would have done test spots (plural) and am willing to bet, especially as they are working with MF pads that they could have done quite a bit of correction. And on soft paint it could be all you ever needed. :dunno:

The owner has no defense for his actions. He should be offering you a discount, or a refund, or both. You should be asking him how much YOUR time is worth and if he would be interested in paying you for your time! Maybe in the context of; "So hey, have you ever taken any detailing classes? You have? So how much do they cost? That much! Hmmmmm, So here's my bill for teaching you. I hope you had a good time, and feel free to call my secretary to schedule your next class." :props:
 
WOW... where to start. :rolleyes:

Now I don't detail full time, (and thankfully don't need to). But my GOD!

How in the world a full time shop could be in the position to have a CUSTOMER come into the shop and show them not only HOW to do a job but DO IT BETTER is freaking beyond me! :eek:

I consider myself for instance a darned good handyman. I studied architecture in school and have a fairly comprehensive grasp of home building. Doing work around the house is second nature, I am detail orientated, and I have a ton of tools. But I know how to work within my limits. I just replaced a water heater for instance that has copper piping and sweat joints. Replaced everything from new ball valves to a recirculation system and even a new expansion tank. However I'm not going to put a new roof on, even though I know how it SHOULD be put on therefore I'll supervise and watch to see they are not cutting corners during the job and hopefully learn something along the way. Then if I *DO* happen to learn something along the way I consider that a win.

Yet if I don't know how is SHOULD be done I certainly wouldn't even attempt to do it, or say a word along the way. Seems these guys really don't know how things SHOULD be done when the paint system changes from one to another, but are taking the approach that they just treat everything the same and that'll be good enough.

As good as D300 (and the system) is it isn't the only thing out there, especially on paint that has proven to be 'soft'. Then to not use a finishing polish on it is just stupid AND lazy. But moreover what gripes my arse is "no paint readings" and jumping right on wet sanding! Now I'm not saying it COULD have been corrected without sanding, but stranger things have happened. I would have done test spots (plural) and am willing to bet, especially as they are working with MF pads that they could have done quite a bit of correction. And on soft paint it could be all you ever needed. :dunno:

The owner has no defense for his actions. He should be offering you a discount, or a refund, or both. You should be asking him how much YOUR time is worth and if he would be interested in paying you for your time! Maybe in the context of; "So hey, have you ever taken any detailing classes? You have? So how much do they cost? That much! Hmmmmm, So here's my bill for teaching you. I hope you had a good time, and feel free to call my secretary to schedule your next class." :props:

I wouldnt say I was more skilled than him by any means. He certainly has more experience. But I will say that I think he slipped on my car a little bit and didnt detail to his fullest potential. If it was a lambo Im sure he would had done a fine job. It doesnt make it right though....

And he did do a finishing polish in the Optimum Prep stuff... It just didnt get all the way wiped before applying OC.
 
I wouldnt say I was more skilled than him by any means. He certainly has more experience. But I will say that I think he slipped on my car a little bit and didnt detail to his fullest potential. If it was a lambo Im sure he would had done a fine job. It doesnt make it right though....

And he did do a finishing polish in the Optimum Prep stuff... It just didnt get all the way wiped before applying OC.

So again, I have never used this Optimum Primer stuff, but if the paint looked hazy, it isn't from polishing residue. You said it looked like a true 50/50 difference after using SF4500... this picture shows the difference between aggressive compounding that hasn't been polished vs. a section that has been properly finished. If that is anything like what you saw, then it DEFINITELY wasn't from residue lol

1229978_295788043892655_922521644_n.jpg


Here is the same section outside in daylight...
999854_295788363892623_1781229120_n.jpg


If you noticed a difference after polishing with SF4500, that was from removing DA haze. It is possible that the Primer could have left haze if it does in fact cut like Optimum Hyper Polish depending on the pad it was used with. HP has significantly more cut than Sf4500.

Again... this would have been remedied with a proper game plan that included test spots and proper inspection along the way.
 
Yeah it looked like your picture sadly...
 
Yeah it looked like your picture sadly...

Guess what compound was used in that picture?

D300/M105 on MF Pads :dblthumb2: and that was on harder GM paint! as a fellow IS250 owner, I can tell you it is much harder than your black paint.
 
I think non metallic black paint is what separates detailers. It is one thing to do a decent job on a light color, but with Jet Black, you can not cut corners and will take longer to do the job right. I can understand why he didn't check the paint in the sun, or with lights. It would show him things he didn't want to see, and naturally would have slowed him down. As far as the residue, if it was just that and OC removed it, then now you can start praying that OC actually lasts long enough for you.

I'll call David next week and find out how durable OC is in that case. I'll let you know. Hyper Polish can finish really well on most paints. When you get the car back (or do you have it already) put some flash light on it for all to see. Also, I'd be looking for missed high spots.
 
Guess what compound was used in that picture?

D300/M105 on MF Pads :dblthumb2: and that was on harder GM paint! as a fellow IS250 owner, I can tell you it is much harder than your black paint.

:bowdown: wow... that certainly is a good example then. :bowdown:

One thing I should note is that his employee was the one who applied the entire polish stage... Which was certainly worrysome to watch..

The Menzerna finished out so nicely though...
 
It is Hyper Polish - same product.

So again, I have never used this Optimum Primer stuff, but if the paint looked hazy, it isn't from polishing residue. You said it looked like a true 50/50 difference after using SF4500... this picture shows the difference between aggressive compounding that hasn't been polished vs. a section that has been properly finished. If that is anything like what you saw, then it DEFINITELY wasn't from residue lol

1229978_295788043892655_922521644_n.jpg


Here is the same section outside in daylight...
999854_295788363892623_1781229120_n.jpg


If you noticed a difference after polishing with SF4500, that was from removing DA haze. It is possible that the Primer could have left haze if it does in fact cut like Optimum Hyper Polish depending on the pad it was used with. HP has significantly more cut than Sf4500.

Again... this would have been remedied with a proper game plan that included test spots and proper inspection along the way.
 
I think non metallic black paint is what separates detailers. It is one thing to do a decent job on a light color, but with Jet Black, you can not cut corners and will take longer to do the job right. I can understand why he didn't check the paint in the sun, or with lights. It would show him things he didn't want to see, and naturally would have slowed him down. As far as the residue, if it was just that and OC removed it, then now you can start praying that OC actually lasts long enough for you.

I'll call David next week and find out how durable OC is in that case. I'll let you know. Hyper Polish can finish really well on most paints. When you get the car back (or do you have it already) put some flash light on it for all to see. Also, I'd be looking for missed high spots.

He is re-applying opti-coat 2.0 today and I am picking car up tomorrow. He uses a sprayer to apply opti-coat so he says he cant get high spots. It looked pretty cool the way he applied it.

Is spraying a real method to avoid high spots?
 
I think non metallic black paint is what separates detailers. It is one thing to do a decent job on a light color, but with Jet Black, you can not cut corners and will take longer to do the job right. I can understand why he didn't check the paint in the sun, or with lights. It would show him things he didn't want to see, and naturally would have slowed him down. As far as the residue, if it was just that and OC removed it, then now you can start praying that OC actually lasts long enough for you.

I'll call David next week and find out how durable OC is in that case. I'll let you know. Hyper Polish can finish really well on most paints. When you get the car back (or do you have it already) put some flash light on it for all to see. Also, I'd be looking for missed high spots.
^OP said the installer is spraying it... I assume that means airbrushing, which should not leave any high spots. Given his current track record with this job though, you never know what will happen.

:bowdown: wow... that certainly is a good example then. :bowdown:

One thing I should note is that his employee was the one who applied the entire polish stage... Which was certainly worrysome to watch..

The Menzerna finished out so nicely though...
^Sounds like he needs to go over some things with his other guy. Hopefully a proper IPA wipedown was done after SF4500? That stuff definitely leaves an oily residue.

It is Hyper Polish - same product.
^good to know

He is re-applying opti-coat 2.0 today and I am picking car up tomorrow. He uses a sprayer to apply opti-coat so he says he cant get high spots. It looked pretty cool the way he applied it.

Is spraying a real method to avoid high spots?
Air brushing OC Pro is a proven method to speed up the application process and reduce wasted product while leaving a perfect finish (no personal experience with this though)... here is Chris Thomas demonstrating the technique.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJn6pobk9pc]Opti Coat Pro via Airbrush - YouTube[/video]
 
The airbrushing was pretty cool to watch. If a customer saw you doing this to their car they would be very impressed. If that means anything lol...

And yes, we did an entire IPA wipedown after the Menzerna. It was very oily..I purchased the Menzerna Final wipe and didnt enjoy it as much as simple ISO. Anybody have any experience with this? I must of been doing something wrong, right?
 
The airbrushing was pretty cool to watch. If a customer saw you doing this to their car they would be very impressed. If that means anything lol...

And yes, we did an entire IPA wipedown after the Menzerna. It was very oily..I purchased the Menzerna Final wipe and didnt enjoy it as much as simple ISO. Anybody have any experience with this? I must of been doing something wrong, right?

Have never used Final Wipe... I either use diluted IPA or CarPro Eraser.
 
Air brushing OC Pro is a proven method to speed up the application process and reduce wasted product while leaving a perfect finish (no personal experience with this though)... here is Chris Thomas demonstrating the technique.

Opti Coat Pro via Airbrush - YouTube


Hmm.. maybe yet another reason to pull the trigger on a solid air compressor..
 
Spraying it is legit, but what do you mean by reapplying it? I hope that he re polished the paint first.

You can layer OC (3 coats max), but it has to be done in one sitting. 1 hour between each application.

The picture posted by the other user is what you call micro marring not hazing. Did you make sure that the paint was looking good enough for YOU before OC?



He is re-applying opti-coat 2.0 today and I am picking car up tomorrow. He uses a sprayer to apply opti-coat so he says he cant get high spots. It looked pretty cool the way he applied it.

Is spraying a real method to avoid high spots?
 
Air brushing OC Pro is a proven method to speed up the application process and reduce wasted product while leaving a perfect finish (no personal experience with this though)... here is Chris Thomas demonstrating the technique.

Faster, yes, but I question how evenly some people are laying it down after seeing a couple videos. The spray pattern on some of the air brushes being used are very narrow compared to that of an HVLP gun and it would be hard for someone who is not skilled in painting cars to lay it down evenly. I've been watching my old man paint cars all my life and even I'm not 100% comfortable doing this application on a whole car yet. However, for intricate wheels and grill it works great, though I prefer using my mini-HVLP gun.

Just my $.02
 
Hmm.. maybe yet another reason to pull the trigger on a solid air compressor..

An air brush system doen't need a typical air compressor like an HVLP gun would...

You just need a little setup like this: Amazon.com - Master Airbrush Brand Multi-purpose Professional Airbrushing System with 3 Airbrushes, G22 Gravity Feed, S68 Siphon Feed & E91 All Purpose Airbrushes, Airbrush Compressor, 6' Air Hose & Airbrush Holder All with Our 1 Year Warranty an

(This product was shown to me by another OC pro installer and trusted professional who uses this method on a regular basis)
 
Faster, yes, but I question how evenly some people are laying it down after seeing a couple videos. The spray pattern on some of the air brushes being used are very narrow compared to that of an HVLP gun and it would be hard for someone who is not skilled in painting cars to lay it down evenly. I've been watching my old man paint cars all my life and even I'm not 100% comfortable doing this application on a whole car yet. However, for intricate wheels and grill it works great, though I prefer using my mini-HVLP gun.

Just my $.02

I completely agree... I will continue to apply it traditionally. I don't trust myself with this type of spray method and have no complaints about the standard 'apply by hand' process.

Care to share what mini-hlvp you've got?
 
Spraying it is legit, but what do you mean by reapplying it? I hope that he re polished the paint first.

You can layer OC (3 coats max), but it has to be done in one sitting. 1 hour between each application.

The picture posted by the other user is what you call micro marring not hazing. Did you make sure that the paint was looking good enough for YOU before OC?

When I came to pick it up this morning I noticed the marks left from compounding. After that we corrected it (Menzerna 4500) and then he re-applied OC.
 
An air brush system doen't need a typical air compressor like an HVLP gun would...

You just need a little setup like this: Amazon.com - Master Airbrush Brand Multi-purpose Professional Airbrushing System with 3 Airbrushes, G22 Gravity Feed, S68 Siphon Feed & E91 All Purpose Airbrushes, Airbrush Compressor, 6' Air Hose & Airbrush Holder All with Our 1 Year Warranty an

(This product was shown to me by another OC pro installer and trusted professional who uses this method on a regular basis)

Thanks for link :props:
 
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