Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

I know this is fairly old post. Regarding using Spar or probably Marine exterior varnish, all of the polyurethane varnishes have a slight to med amber color - which usually increases w/ age. You don't notice it over darker wood, but will over light colored wood & certainly over clear plastic (eventually). How much & if / how will affect light allowed thru lens - dunno.

Depending on brand, EXTERIOR urethanes often have UV protection. If doesn't say so on can, probably doesn't. But, they still are not "crystal clear", as some brands say. Some can get quite yellow / amber after a few yrs. Been this way for decades.

Only the water based polyurethanes do NOT have a tint or turn darker, BUT... so far, haven't seen a water based one recommended for exterior use.

Did find one "Clear, non yellowing, UV protection" spray can made by Rustoleum at Home Depot. Looked in several stores - but there's always more to check. Every can / spray can of clear, exterior finishes I checked either had nothing about UV protection, or they mentioned noticing sl. amber color over light / white surfaces. In many cases I've seen over decades, their "slight yellowing / amber" is really "extremely yellow."

If anyone's used a regular spar polyurethane, marine varnish & NOT noticed it kinda yellow - esp. after yr or 2, let me know the brand/ product name, cause I'd like to look at it.

There's always the expensive ones available online made for headlight lenses. Like most people here, I think they're WAY over priced. Even $10 / can would be pricey & most I've seen are 3x that, & still no guarantee they'll last > couple yrs.

BTW, if U still want to use one of these, if you can remove the headlight & prop it up so parallel to ground before brushing / wiping it on, won't be nearly as many sags / drips. These varnishes are NOT made to be thinned 50%, even for spraying. Thinned that much, they're very likely to run some. I question how much protective layer there'd be after thinning 50%.
 
If anyone's used a regular spar polyurethane, marine varnish & NOT noticed it kinda yellow - esp. after yr or 2, let me know the brand/ product name, cause I'd like to look at it.
These varnishes are NOT made to be thinned 50%, even for spraying. Thinned that much, they're very likely to run some. I question how much protective layer there'd be after thinning 50%.[/QUOTE]

The original poster has tested this method and shown his findings to us along with up-dates for well over a year. I think he has proved this method provides the most bang for the buck as they say. I haven't seen any yellowing complaints from any of the forum members that have tried this process since the original post back in 09. I personally would like to thank Hotrod for sharing this process with us and keeping us up to date with his findings as time goes on. :dblthumb2: Paul S
 
I was thinking of maybe coating the head and tail lamps with cquartz or similar coatings?
 
I got into one issue with this method, that's my mistake, but you can avoid it!!!
I taped headlights when polished my car and tape residue imprinted into "sealant" and I can't take it out with water or rain-x.
I didn't think it has to be treated in another way :-(
It isn't visible from 3 meters, but I can see it from 1 m.
I don't want to re polish headlights for now - so left it as is.
 
mikek753 said:
I got into one issue with this method, that's my mistake, but you can avoid it!!!
I taped headlights when polished my car and tape residue imprinted into "sealant" and I can't take it out with water or rain-x.
I didn't think it has to be treated in another way :-(
It isn't visible from 3 meters, but I can see it from 1 m.
I don't want to re polish headlights for now - so left it as is.
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could you possibly feather sand the imprinted areas to bring it all to the same level?
 
2old2change said:
I haven't seen any yellowing complaints from any of the forum members that have tried this process since the original post back in 09.
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It may be that the 50% thinned coating isn't thick enough to notice the amber coloring of polyurethane (Spar or not). If so, in this case, that's good. But any "oil based" polyurethane gives an amber tone, if used at recommended thickness.

Glad to hear the extremely thinned coating seems to be holding up & preventing yellowing on the lenses. For "normal" exterior uses, thinning it 50% would be of little value & would start to deteriorate fairly quickly if exposed to much sun. Glad to hear it seems to hold up, but I'm amazed it lasts at least 2 yrs if car is mostly outside - esp. in the South. Will keep my fingers crossed.

mikek753:
If you used regular masking tape, the residue shouldn't be permanent - esp. if didn't leave tape on the lenses for months. IF it's tape residue, should be able to remove w/ mineral spirits (plain paint thinner). Don't use anything "hotter", like lacquer thinner, though. Take a small pc of cloth & soak the affected spots. May have to reapply or wait a few min for it to soften up the glue. If there's a glue residue left, you'll feel it start to loosen after a couple min when wiping w/ the cloth. After most residue is loose / off, use clean cloth & some more thinner, then wipe w/ dry cloth.

It is POSSIBLE the tape actually pulled some of the lens coating off. I've seen where the coating started coming off by itself, that there are tiny "clear" spots, where as rest of lens is cloudy. I've seen masking tape pull lots of finishes off, unless using the (expensive) kind that's made so glue doesn't dry for a good while & releases more easily. HTH.
 
2old2change said:
The original poster has tested this method and shown his findings to us along with up-dates for well over a year. I think he has proved this method provides the most bang for the buck as they say. I haven't seen any yellowing complaints from any of the forum members that have tried this process since the original post back in 09. I personally would like to thank Hotrod for sharing this process with us and keeping us up to date with his findings as time goes on. :dblthumb2: Paul S
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Well said.
 
thanks for the replies
it's been a month of rain and one or two week more than I'll see what can be done
in a rain there is no diff ;-)
I didn't want to try mineral spirits or etc thinner as not to make more damage to take out Spar.
 
I tried your method of sealing and it seemed to work great. Went on fine the first time.

One question on this........what technique do you use to actually measure out the urthane and the mineral spirits so you get equal amounts?


Also on another note. When you did your tail lights did you tape over the white reverse light part, or did you sand it along with the rest of the light?.

P.S. Your PM box is full!!! :D
 
reggie1967 said:
i post flyers on people cars/ lve some at business i go to laundrymat/stores/ gas satations if u go to dvelup.com andorder product they hve flyers made up u can use. they hve a before/after pix of a mustang headlight on their flyers
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Thanks Reggie, I thought about trying that I just wanted to find the most efficient way. Have you or anyone else on here heard about the infomercial?

Sorry it took so long to reply but I have been dealing with some family medical issues and now I am back on track.
 
Rewind97 said:
I tried your method of sealing and it seemed to work great. Went on fine the first time.

One question on this........what technique do you use to actually measure out the urthane and the mineral spirits so you get equal amounts?


Also on another note. When you did your tail lights did you tape over the white reverse light part, or did you sand it along with the rest of the light?.

P.S. Your PM box is full!!! :D
Click to expand...
get a mixing cup at your local paint store! they have very little ones and it has the ratios on the cup. since this ratio is 1:1 you can pour some mineral spirits up to the number 1 and then some urethane up to number 2 and you should have 1:1 or 50/50!
 
Rewind97 said:
I tried your method of sealing and it seemed to work great. Went on fine the first time.

One question on this........what technique do you use to actually measure out the urthane and the mineral spirits so you get equal amounts?


Also on another note. When you did your tail lights did you tape over the white reverse light part, or did you sand it along with the rest of the light?.

P.S. Your PM box is full!!! :D
Click to expand...

I just use a small measuring spoon. Here is one that autogeek sells that should work pretty good. 1 oz. Measuring Cups

When I did the tail lights I did the reverse light part the same as the rest.
 
93fox said:
get a mixing cup at your local paint store! they have very little ones and it has the ratios on the cup. since this ratio is 1:1 you can pour some mineral spirits up to the number 1 and then some urethane up to number 2 and you should have 1:1 or 50/50!
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good idea
 
This method is great. I've been using this trick on all my restores lately. Probably done it about 10 times since reading this. I've gotten pretty good at it, and am able to add a decent thick layer without having it look "brushed" on. Definitely a cool trick! Thanks OP for sharing this. :props:

I used to use a spray on urethane, but it was tough to get it right every time. There was a couple instances where bubbling occurred and I had to re-sand and start over. When I got it right with the aerosol...it really did look perfect. But, I would rather have an excellent outcome every time, and be done quickly...then to try and try again for perfection. This works, and my customers love it.

I'm actually upping my price an extra $10 because of this. :dblthumb2:
 
HotRod said:
I just use a small measuring spoon. Here is one that autogeek sells that should work pretty good. 1 oz. Measuring Cups

When I did the tail lights I did the reverse light part the same as the rest.
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Thanks Hot Rod!!! Since I posted the question I've found a great way to mix. Every time we get medicine for the kids at the pharmacy they give us medicine droppers to use and the little medicine cups (like on the top of cough syrup), we have a bag full of them. They work great. they are calibrated in ml's and tsp's. If you want to get some just go to any drug store and ask for some.

I've also done my tail lights and they came out great!!!! The only light left is the 3rd brake/bed light on the back of the cab.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
This method is great. I've been using this trick on all my restores lately. Probably done it about 10 times since reading this. I've gotten pretty good at it, and am able to add a decent thick layer without having it look "brushed" on. Definitely a cool trick! Thanks OP for sharing this. :props:

I used to use a spray on urethane, but it was tough to get it right every time. There was a couple instances where bubbling occurred and I had to re-sand and start over. When I got it right with the aerosol...it really did look perfect. But, I would rather have an excellent outcome every time, and be done quickly...then to try and try again for perfection. This works, and my customers love it.

I'm actually upping my price an extra $10 because of this. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...

So how much are you actually charging now?
 
Hello everyone ive been doing headlight restoration and headlight customization for the past 3 years now and have run my small business and ive been using the spar urethane for the past 10 almost 11 months and so far so good. I can take headlights apart and clean them on the inside when they have water or a customer wants me to paint the bezel or add halos or leds etc etc. but for sure the headlight restorations turn out great with this methode. Ill try to post up pictures thanks again.
 
accordxracer said:
Hello everyone ive been doing headlight restoration and headlight customization for the past 3 years now and have run my small business and ive been using the spar urethane for the past 10 almost 11 months and so far so good. I can take headlights apart and clean them on the inside when they have water or a customer wants me to paint the bezel or add halos or leds etc etc. but for sure the headlight restorations turn out great with this methode. Ill try to post up pictures thanks again.
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You caught my attention saying you can take them apart and clean the inside...any chance of some step by step pics or a video on how you do that? I thought they were sealed (or at least some were)..?
 
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