OPT finish Polish new formula on soft paint

Chris@Optimum said:
If you have some directions that state to use a medium-light cutting pad...then we have a problem. The instructions should say finishing pad.
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It was in your directions Chris.

To apply Optimum Finish, use light to medium buffing pressure with a finishing foam pad (no cut). For high speed buffers, 1000-1400 RPM will provide excellent swirl removal and a flawless finish. The polish is aggressive enough to remove 2500 sand scratches, but fine enough to produce perfect results even with a high speed buffer. For orbital buffers, use a medium to light cutting pad with moderate speed (3-4) and pressure for desired results. Always use enough polish to create a barrier between the buffing pad and the paint surface. Wipe off residue by misting either water or Optimum Car Wax and gently wiping off with a plush microfiber towel.
 
Well, dang! That's what I get for copying and pasting to save time! It should be finishing pad with either machine, because....wait for it....its a Finishing polish.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Well, dang! That's what I get for copying and pasting to save time! It should be finishing pad with either machine, because....wait for it....its a Finishing polish.
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What did you copy and paste off of? The instructions?
 
IID said:
Sounds like you liked the 85RD Mark.:xyxthumbs:
How did it fair in compared to the other?

If I can add an indirect comment?
I notice that 85RD is a very good product but seems a lil oily(greasier)as opposed to OPT FinishII.After using 85RD,make sure to use a product like Eraser,GG Paint Prep,Ect..,to get your "true" finish,before applying your LSP.
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Hey Chris,

I actually haven't had a chance to use either OPT Finish or 85rd yet. THANKS FOR THE SAMPLE of 85rd, BUD!! :props: I specifically sent it to Jon(05xRunner) because I know he has super soft paint, and I wanted him to test both products head to head.
 
What I would like to see if you have time is to do a 50/50 area. 85rd as you have done, then Optimum Finish with a finishing pad (no cut) and not exceeding 4 on the DA speed. Then if you would induldge me to wait about five days (don't add waxes or sealants) and compare the areas again to see the true correction.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Well, dang! That's what I get for copying and pasting to save time! It should be finishing pad with either machine, because....wait for it....its a Finishing polish.
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yes but the Crimson Hydrotech is a finishing pad as well.

What I would like to see if you have time is to do a 50/50 area. 85rd as you have done, then Optimum Finish with a finishing pad (no cut) and not exceeding 4 on the DA speed. Then if you would induldge me to wait about five days (don't add waxes or sealants) and compare the areas again to see the true correction.
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I dont understand the 5days..if I wipe the area with my griots paint prep wont that show me the results instantly and remove all fillers as well.
 
85rd is the standard for jeweling. If the Optimum product reached 90% of what 85rd does at a lower price point I, personally, would consider it a success. Also, how many people have super soft paint? How about a test on soft and medium as well?
 
RFulmer said:
Can you use these Crimson HT 6.5" pads with a PC?
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you can but I wouldnt use them for anything other then applying a wax or sealant..the 6.5" pads suck up to much of the power on the PC and it bogs down easy. Thats why i only use the Low profile 5.5" hydrotechs
 
05xrunner said:
you can but I wouldnt use them for anything other then applying a wax or sealant..the 6.5" pads suck up to much of the power on the PC and it bogs down easy. Thats why i only use the Low profile 5.5" hydrotechs
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Are those sold here? Edit: I found them: Link


I'm about to order some of the PO85RD to use with my PC with some soft paint that has similar marks that you get when using the OPT polish. I'm hoping the 85RD with the right pad can help me out.

Have a pad recommendation (from here is possible)?

 
05xrunner said:
yes but the Crimson Hydrotech is a finishing pad as well.


I dont understand the 5days..if I wipe the area with my griots paint prep wont that show me the results instantly and remove all fillers as well.
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It's a true test of correction to make sure other chemicals (not just oils) are not in play. 5 days is plenty of time for those to clear up. Most people only inspect initial results and then add the LSP. This would just be very interesting to see if you have the time. Take pics after the correction then wait 5 days and take the same pics...if you still see a superior finish then Menz is for winner for your paint.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
It's a true test of correction to make sure other chemicals (not just oils) are not in play. 5 days is plenty of time for those to clear up. Most people only inspect initial results and then add the LSP. This would just be very interesting to see if you have the time. Take pics after the correction then wait 5 days and take the same pics...if you still see a superior finish then Menz is for winner for your paint.
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Do you have your customers return in 5 days to apply their LSP?
 
crxman2010 said:
I have Red Hydrotech as well as Red & Black CCS pads all in 4" that I plan to use on vivid black Harley this winter with Optimum Finish Polish so we will see how it works out. I couldn't say whether or not this black is harder or softer then what you are working on but compared to the paints I have played with, it ranks as pretty soft.
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I haven't put a pad to the soft, black Mustang finish but I think they're both in the 'swirl when you look at 'em' camp. The best results I've gotten on Vivid Black was with Ultrafina and a light blue 3" 3M finishing pad. 85RD looks great until you wipe off the residue and put as much marring back into the paint as you just removed. My technique is to remove polish, wax and sealant residue with a Cobra WW misted with M34. A light IPA wipe with a WW and it got Opti Coat. So far so good. YMMV.

TL
 
TLMitchell said:
I haven't put a pad to the soft, black Mustang finish but I think they're both in the 'swirl when you look at 'em' camp. The best results I've gotten on Vivid Black was with Ultrafina and a light blue 3" 3M finishing pad. 85RD looks great until you wipe off the residue and put as much marring back into the paint as you just removed. My technique is to remove polish, wax and sealant residue with a Cobra WW misted with M34. A light IPA wipe with a WW and it got Opti Coat. So far so good. YMMV.

TL
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Black is tough. I know what you mean about adding swirls when wiping off the wax, I had the same trouble when doing this. But I'm actually finding it easier to deal with than the white.

RLF_1148.jpg
 
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