Can't Get Rid Of Brown Tires!

Whiplash Willy said:
I read a review on these forums that said you should dilute it to 4:1 for tough jobs and 10:1 for normal use. Also, on their website, they say that you should dilute it if it is being used on painted surfaces. I know I would be just using it on tires, but I would worry about getting it on the body or painted wheels....

Since it is water activated, diluting it and letting it sit for 1 week + would decrease it's effectiveness right?

Yea, maybe I need to try several applications...
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Couple of quick questions for you.

-Is it the overall ph 13 value of this product that has you worried about getting it on the body or painted wheels?
-Do you know the ph value of this product when it's diluted 4:1 or 10:1?
-What are the wheels painted with?

Please advise, if you don't mind that is.

:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Couple of quick questions for you.

-Is it the overall ph 13 value of this product that has you worried about getting it on the body or painted wheels?
-Do you know the ph value of this product when it's diluted 4:1 or 10:1?
-What are the wheels painted with?

Please advise, if you don't mind that is.

:)

Bob
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Bob,

I don't know enough about the PH value to make an educated decision, All I am basing this on is the manufacture said to dilute it if it is going to be used on paint. Even though it isn't being used directly on paint, I would worry about getting overspray on the exposed paint in the fender well and the wheels, which have a factory painted and clearcoat finish.
 
I spray on Mean Green Degreaser on the tire, agitate with a brush and rinse off. Then I use Mothers FX Tire Shine to bring tires to a deep black color.
 
That is where preventative maintenance comes into play there Flash. Very funny.LOL
 
First, you don't have to dilute ARO. Only Meg's APC. I wouldnt worry about overspray just be careful and make sure you are cleaning your wheels before your car. You can use a host of different products to clean your tires such as an APC, ARO, a degreaser, a dedicated tire cleaner. I know you dont want to add time to your cleaning time but it takes about 5 minutes to dress tires. If you apply opti-bond once a month it should work. Or like someone else said, use Ultima Tire and Trim guard. It will last a while

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Well, I had/have the same thing go/going on with one of my winter tires after trying out Purple Power's Citrus Cleaner. It took the tire from a new black finish to dull, streaky brown. What happens when you clean your tires(too often or with too harsh a cleaner) without replacing the protection that the manufacturer puts there is you are exposing bare rubber. Rubber is tan in nature and only black on tire do to additives like carbon black, among other element added along with the vulcanization process. M+S compounds, but especially winter compounds< are much softer there for have less additives to harden and protect the rubber. The scratches are scratches, since natural rubber has no abrasion resistance. So cleaning with out protecting rubber is actually removing the protection and black that is put there by manufacturers. All you can do now is clean the tires with a mild cleaner like the WG tire/wheel, or a diluted APC like OPC. I have never notice browning after using OPC, and haven't found a better/safer APC. Wet the tire, spray cleaner, wipe/scrub it in with a MF designated for tires/wheels, then rinse immediately. I would towel dry or blow dry the tires to prevent the chemicals in your water from bleaching the rubber further, then apply a product like WGETS, Opti-Bond, UTTG, or PERL. These products should bring back most of the black to the tire. I would reapply the protectant at least biweekly to further the blackening and protect the rubber.
You should think of rubber(tire and trim) like the rest of your vehicles finish and trim. You would use heavy cleaners on plastic trim and paint with out applying a protectant following the cleaning, right? If you would then you should reevaluate your detailing all together; but I would find that hard to believe considering your a member of AGO.:)
If anyone wants a better understanding of natural rubber and tire rubber, then read the wikipedia articles on natural rubber and Goodyear.
 
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Whiplash Willy said:
Bob,

I don't know enough about the PH value to make an educated decision, All I am basing this on is the manufacture said to dilute it if it is going to be used on paint. Even though it isn't being used directly on paint, I would worry about getting overspray on the exposed paint in the fender well and the wheels, which have a factory painted and clearcoat finish.
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Strong alkalines (alkalis) (Higher number ph values) are often just as caustic as strong acids (lower number ph values).

IMO....Use as close to ph neutral cleaners as possible.
Main issue: Safer for you.
Then, safer for the environment.
Last but not least..Safer to use around your vehicle's painted surfaces, wheels of all types, plastic trim.

:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
IMO....Use as close to ph neutral cleaners as possible.
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Then you're sacrificing cleaning power, IMO.

Bob, do you know the pH of P21S TAW?

FWIW, I recently tried DP Cleanse-All(alkaline) on tires, wheel wells, and paint and I really liked it.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Then you're sacrificing cleaning power, IMO.
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Not necessarily. There was a thread by Mike P or someone from Optimum recently on here, (I can't remember who or the name of the thread) but they were saying how acidity and alkaline of the cleaning product doesn't dictate cleaning power. They used an example where a strongly alkaline product was not as aggressive in cleaning as a less strong alkaline product that was closer to PH 7 (neutral).

Wish I could remember more details.
 
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