Embedded material in the paint.

nissenc1337

nissenc1337

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Morning all-

I'm working on an Arctic White camaro right now and I gave it a good cleaning last night, including a clay bar. I've never seen my clay bar so contaminated, it felt like rubbing the clay over sand paper. Luckily it smoothed everything out.

However, after I inspected the paint I noticed the paint is speckled with yellow/orange spots. Tiny spots. They're obviously embedded in the paint and need to be removed so I'm needing something that will essentially dissolve the contaminants.

This car has sat both outside, inside, and was daily drove for about 15years. THe brake dust in the barrel literally sanded away the white powder coat. It's ridiculous.

Anyways, I'll get pics to better help the situation so everyone can see but in the mean time does anyone have some idea?
 
Yup, plenty of ideas. When you get rail/brake dust sitting on the paint like that, it begins to etch/sink into the paint, so some of it is below the surface. When you clay, you shave off the top of the particle, leaving the below-surface portion (some of them may get grabbed by the clay and be pulled out rather than shaved off).

You need to chemically remove that iron. In the old days we would use an acid decon like FK Step 2 or ValuGard Step B. Today you would use something like Iron-X or one of the competing products:

Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution
Finish Kare SIRR Steel, Iron Rust Remover, auto paint iron remover, ferrous metal remover, paint cleaner, paint decontamination system
CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent, auto iron remover
Wolfs Chemicals Deironizer Decon Gel
Auto Finesse Iron Out Iron Remover
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yup, plenty of ideas. When you get rail/brake dust sitting on the paint like that, it begins to etch/sink into the paint, so some of it is below the surface. When you clay, you shave off the top of the particle, leaving the below-surface portion (some of them may get grabbed by the clay and be pulled out rather than shaved off).

You need to chemically remove that iron. In the old days we would use an acid decon like FK Step 2 or ValuGard Step B. Today you would use something like Iron-X or one of the competing products:

Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution
Finish Kare SIRR Steel, Iron Rust Remover, auto paint iron remover, ferrous metal remover, paint cleaner, paint decontamination system
CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent, auto iron remover
Wolfs Chemicals Deironizer Decon Gel
Auto Finesse Iron Out Iron Remover
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Even though the particals are yellowish/orangeish? That could be iron? I suppose the discoloration could be from rust.

I'm always hearing about Iron-X but want to be sure to get something that will get the job done and that Kare system seems like the real deal. Any experience with it?
 
nissenc1337 said:
Even though the particals are yellowish/orangeish? That could be iron? I suppose the discoloration could be from rust.

I'm always hearing about Iron-X but want to be sure to get something that will get the job done and that Kare system seems like the real deal. Any experience with it?
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Yeah, it's rusty iron. As I said, in the old days (10 years ago) you would dissolve the iron with a decon acid like the FK, today most people use the non-acid products like the others that I linked, Iron-X, etc.
 
Any write ups on IronX and how to use it? I imagine I can just strip the wax and spray it on a dry surface? I've already clayed the car a week ago then applied wax the next day.
 
im sure the fk system works well but when i used it the only thing i disliked about step 2 was that there is no feedback to let you know the product is done working, where as iron-x changes color (the bleeding effect), the fk decon system worked well for me though, but i plan on switching to iron-x for future iron particle removal simply because of the positive feedback that indicates the product is reacting.
 
To use iron x just wash down your car then after washing spray iron x on the paint and let it sit for 5-7 mins. The you Can agitate with with soap and a mitt or just rinse off the surface.
 
Alright, just ordered Iron-X/Tar-X combo and 5 fast glass towels. Hopefully this works!


I'll pretreat some areas with TarX, wash the car with ZEP Citrus degreaser to strip all the wax, dry it, then apply Iron X and see what happens.

Any other tips to get the most out of iron X? How much should I use, more the merrier? The purple against the white paint and white wheels is going to look pretty interesting. Should I clean the wheels as I normally would before applying iron x or am I wasting product?
 
If that doesn't work, you might need to use the Finish Kare decon system on it. Sometimes there is stuff that can get into vehicles paint that is not iron.
 
nissenc1337 said:
Alright, just ordered Iron-X/Tar-X combo and 5 fast glass towels. Hopefully this works!


I'll pretreat some areas with TarX, wash the car with ZEP Citrus degreaser to strip all the wax, dry it, then apply Iron X and see what happens.

Any other tips to get the most out of iron X? How much should I use, more the merrier? The purple against the white paint and white wheels is going to look pretty interesting. Should I clean the wheels as I normally would before applying iron x or am I wasting product?
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Just like the paint wash your wheels first then after apply your ironx. You want the ironx to work on anything that doesn't come off in a wash
 
VP Mark said:
If that doesn't work, you might need to use the Finish Kare decon system on it. Sometimes there is stuff that can get into vehicles paint that is not iron.
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I'm sure there is but there sure is a LOT of yellow/orange on the paint. I'm expecting great results. I'll take plenty of Before and After's for everyone.

I bought the Tar-X because my wife's car manages to hit ALL the bugs when driving and they're a pain to remove.
 
nissenc1337 said:
I'm sure there is but there sure is a LOT of yellow/orange on the paint. I'm expecting great results. I'll take plenty of Before and After's for everyone.

I bought the Tar-X because my wife's car manages to hit ALL the bugs when driving and they're a pain to remove.
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It just dawned on me, could it take more than one application of 5-7 minutes or should it get everything in one go?
 
Curious to hear about your findings. I also have an arctic white camaro that has similar things in the paint.
 
The Guz said:
Curious to hear about your findings. I also have an arctic white camaro that has similar things in the paint.
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Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!

I need to post pictures in this thread to better explain what I'm up against.

I'll upload those tonight.
 
Did you guys who are not getting the desired effects from Iron-x spray it onto a wet car?

If so you the iron-x would instantly dilute with the water on the car, reducing its effectiveness.

I always dry either the wheels or paintwork before spraying the iron-x on, then I let it dwell for 2 mins, then agitate gently with a damp sponge to ensure even coverage, then allow it to dwell for another few minutes before rinsing thoroughly....
 
Excuse me if I missed it in your posts: Where are these spots located?

Also, do you have any pictures?
 
...

Its rust and if Ironx does not do the deed then Tarx or citrix-anything will simply be a waste of product. My 2010 GMC had some spots on the rear for awhile. Icould only remove 90 percent of the spots on the rear hatch.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
 
lawrenceSA said:
Did you guys who are not getting the desired effects from Iron-x spray it onto a wet car?

If so you the iron-x would instantly dilute with the water on the car, reducing its effectiveness.

I always dry either the wheels or paintwork before spraying the iron-x on, then I let it dwell for 2 mins, then agitate gently with a damp sponge to ensure even coverage, then allow it to dwell for another few minutes before rinsing thoroughly....
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I applied it on a totally dry surface

Bkazzle said:
Excuse me if I missed it in your posts: Where are these spots located?

Also, do you have any pictures?
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It's over the entire car. Not a single panel unaffected. I'll post pictures tonight.
 
I can't edit my OP so here are pics of what I'm looking at.

photo_116.JPG

photo_217.JPG

photo_315.JPG


Thoughts?
 
Hopefully, you are able to get those out. I almost bought a 30th Z28 6 speed. It was a beautiful, fun car and unfortunately the dealer and I couldn't agree on a price.
 
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