Flex PE14-2-150 Shocking

:props:
Zubair said:
Nissan 4x4, have since done a Range Rover Evoque, Isuzu 4x4, Black Golf 7 GTi Oettinger with the PE-14 and the finish has been gorgeous. I was always under the impression Rotary for cutting and DA for finishing but my experiences thus far has been rotary for cutting and finishing. I still haven't experienced holograms, looking at the finished product under LED lighting and sunlight.Soft black paint may change your mind.

If there's anyone else out there that finishes and jewels with a rotary, chime in as I have been a DA fanboy up until a short few days ago where the PE-14 has converted me.
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Zubair, sorry for messing up your thread!
 
Zub, i jewel quite frequently with my rotary however is not always possible on some paints. On those exceptions i grab my PC ROB. I always do a test spot(s) and nail down what works best from cutting all the way down to finishing. When i see holograms or buffer trails from my finish steps with the rotary i change the "action of the machine" as Mike P. says and find the DA gets it done. When i do that, i will admit i never use less than 5 on the dial. My hologram/buffer trail issues are typically on soft, dark paints. For example i had a 2012 very dark blue Honda Accord recently that got a PC finish. I have a black Cad Escallade customer and always rotory finish that down. It's much harder paint.

Holograms don't always reveal themselves to me in the garage so i pull EVERY test spot out into the sun. I am fortunate to have it most of the time and if i didn't i would be finding a light source that they couldn't hide from!

When i can finish THAT paint i'm working on with my rotary it's a finesse process. It is always with a finish polish and ranges from a white pad (very hard paint) or black pad or maybe red/blue pad. My arm speeds don't change and i typically move very slowly however will vary speeds of the machine (pad spin speed) and at times use negative pressure as Mike has talked about, lifting the head of the rotory machine just a tad but insuring the pad is still contacting the paint. My pads are ALWAYS flat as well.

I have a few gold LC flats but have them reserved for LSP's. I want to get more to use for jewelling.
 
Thanks Puckman, I carry atleast one DA with just incase. For cutting I can't see myself using a DA again, seems strange but a rotary is lightning quick, faster than my Rupes with Microfiber or my 3401 with Wool. So far finishing with a rotary has been a blessing too.
 
I own both PE-14 and PE-8. Amazing machines that are used in all of my multi-step corrections.

The Rupes machines I have lended to my helper and they are mainly used for those clients that just want an AIO job on their vehicle.
 
Zubair said:
Thanks Puckman, I carry atleast one DA with just incase. For cutting I can't see myself using a DA again, seems strange but a rotary is lightning quick, faster than my Rupes with Microfiber or my 3401 with Wool. So far finishing with a rotary has been a blessing too.
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What pads have you used for cutting with the PE?
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
What pads have you used for cutting with the PE?
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Lake Country Orange Light Cutting pads and White Polishing pads. They have significantly more cut on the PE-14 than they do on a DA.
 
Ordered my PE14 last night. Thanks to the sale and this thread I was sold on which rotary to get. Do you have the 5 or 6 in backplate?
 
Boejoula said:
Ordered my PE14 last night. Thanks to the sale and this thread I was sold on which rotary to get. Do you have the 5 or 6 in backplate?
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5" bp and I use 5.5",6",6.5" pads with pleasure .
 
Zubair said:
This is the part thats baffling me, hoping Mike Phillip's or someone else can chime in as to why the results from a finishing perspective seems better with a rotary, the paints crisper,sharper with more clarity. I hope this helped.
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It's fairly simple, really: no DA haze with a rotary. While a rotary can induce marring that a DA can't (holograms) a DA can and iwll instill marring that a rotary can't, and that's the DA haze we often fight when dealing with very soft, touch sensitive paints. If you look very closely at the very tiny "tick marks" that are at the root of a DA haze you'll see that they mimic the motion of the pad when used on a DA, except they are incomplete scratches (for lack of a better way to describe the marks). If you've ever seen pigtails from DA sanding you get the basics of a DA haze: cut the tiniest tops off the pig tail, multiply that mark by a few gazillion (yep, that's a technical detailing term!) and you get a DA haze. Remember, gloss comes from smoothness and flatness, and all those incredibly tiny little tick marks are anything but smooth and flat. Most noticeable in non metallic black paints, you'll often chase that DA haze for a stupid amount of time on really soft paint. A rotary like the PE14 that spins as slowly as 600rpm is a blessing in these situations! Heck, I've been known to correct a car with a DA and finish with a rotary! Why? Because the initial marring wasn't that bad and a DA was way more than sufficient to get defect free. But the project called for max gloss and refinement, so a very low speed rotary finish was the way to get the result. I did this on a white (of all colors) Maserati a few years ago with a Meguiar's black foam finishing pad and M205 and you couldn't look at the car in the sunshine without being blinded. Did the same on a red Ferrari 360 Spyder and the owner was blown away by the finish (and I thought it looked fairly decent before I started on it!).

So, that was a long way to explain the lack of DA haze with a rotary, and why a rotary can often give you the best finish. But keep the speed slow and the pad flat or you'll be chasing holograms instead of DA haze.

Yep, there's always a trade off. When in doubt, technique, technique, technique.
 
Thanks Mr Stoops! I have noticed on white and black paint to get a finish superior to DA's using the rotary. Key to stupid levels of gloss on automotive paint for me is a finishing polish, black finishing pad and a rotary on 600 rpm just as you stated :)

Jeweling heaven...
 
That's some great info, Professor Stoops!
 
Anybody know what is that allows this rotary to correct so well at speed 1 when most other rotary's would need to be at speed 3 or 4?
 
detailgod said:
Anybody know what is that allows this rotary to correct so well at speed 1 when most other rotary's would need to be at speed 3 or 4?
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I doubt if 600rpm will correct better than 1200-1500 rpm.
 
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