Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

If it's a warmish day and the sun is out, generally it is. But the same people who are in a big hurry to go will often be the ones who will pull over and stop after they turn the first corner, then mash their fingers into the headlights, leaving fingerprints. The urethane will not be totally cured at that point and will still be softer than when it is totally set up.
 
GP49 said:
If it's a warmish day and the sun is out, generally it is. But the same people who are in a big hurry to go will often be the ones who will pull over and stop after they turn the first corner, then mash their fingers into the headlights, leaving fingerprints. The urethane will not be totally cured at that point and will still be softer than when it is totally set up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Any of you mobile guys figure out a way to get the coat on without little tiny dust specs? Is this just the nature of doing these jobs mobile?
 
Also, any of you guys dilute 40/60 spar/min? would it help the drying process without adverse long term effects?

Also, 2 week update on pre-mix. Seems to be holding up fine. Still going on crystal clear.
 
man, i really wish i could edit posts.

So i did a headlight today and realized its NOT dust. The little specs are coming from my shop towel! wtf. Are any of you guys running into that same problem? They appear immediately after i prime with with mineral spirits across the entire light. so frustrating.
 
mitsuman95 said:
So i did a headlight today and realized its NOT dust. The little specs are coming from my shop towel! wtf. Are any of you guys running into that same problem? They appear immediately after i prime with with mineral spirits across the entire light. so frustrating.
Click to expand...

Didn't prime with the mineral spirits when I did my headlights.
Your referring to the blue shop towel? Did not run across any little specks on any of my headlights.
 
So yeah...read all 13 pages and I gotta say full of info. I love threads like these where people update them yearly on test for durability. You have no idea how much it sucks going to detailing forums and see a guy start a durability test with XX products then do a update three months...then no update.

If HotRod still frequents the forums still and reads this thread I just wanna say thank you very much for your informative opening post, thanks for keeping the people up to date even years later, and for the other post in HELPING the community.

Also wanna say thanks for the other contributors for posting in this thread with their results.
 
DaHen said:
Didn't prime with the mineral spirits when I did my headlights.
Your referring to the blue shop towel? Did not run across any little specks on any of my headlights.
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ya the blue scott shop towel. I know its the towel because as i wipe on i see specs, and if i look really really closely, tiny little fibers.

:dunno:
 
I get the specs too but its no big deal for me because its only my families car. I thought it was dust but I don't doubt it is from the towel. Thanks
 
Hummmm. Can't think of how the fibers are getting on the headlight lens......... Perhaps the towel is to dry!!!!

Now as I am applying the liquid, my blue paper shop towel is wet. I mean saturated. So much so that even my finger tips are wet.

Just a side note: When I do any painting inside or outside the house. My method is to "Just slop it on and spread it out". I use this same technique with the headlight lens.
 
Yes. It must be wet. I don't consider it wet until the urethane liquid has soaked THROUGH the folded paper towel and the backside is wet. An ample amount of the stuff also makes for better self-leveling, short of the point where it runs. A saturated paper towel pad seems to do that, just fine.

If it drags as you apply, it is too dry.
 
DaHen said:
Hummmm. Can't think of how the fibers are getting on the headlight lens......... Perhaps the towel is to dry!!!!

Now as I am applying the liquid, my blue paper shop towel is wet. I mean saturated. So much so that even my finger tips are wet.

Just a side note: When I do any painting inside or outside the house. My method is to "Just slop it on and spread it out". I use this same technique with the headlight lens.
Click to expand...

see thats what i figured, so i added more and i guess i didnt add enough. its bleeding through to the back. hmm

GP49 said:
Yes. It must be wet. I don't consider it wet until the urethane liquid has soaked THROUGH the folded paper towel and the backside is wet. An ample amount of the stuff also makes for better self-leveling, short of the point where it runs. A saturated paper towel pad seems to do that, just fine.

If it drags as you apply, it is too dry.
Click to expand...

im going to really soak it next time see if it helps. thanks guys
 
Used this method today and was pretty happy with the results.

The wife's car was showing some oxidation and was getting a bit a sort of frosted look.

I used:

Milwaukee Tight Angle Drill with Drill adapter and 2-7/8 backing plate
3m Sanding Discs in 500,800,1500 wet, 3000 wet
Megs Plastic X
1:1 Spar Ureth. High Gloss to Mineral Spirits
Scott Shop Towels
Low Tack Tape

The before was worse than what the picture shows. The flash hid alot of the damage:

elQCK.jpg


Taping it up after 3000 I taped it out again because of the moisture:

93IT5.jpg


After:

EWIME.jpg

L0jyX.jpg


Just wish I could have gotten some better photos without flash.

:xyxthumbs:
 
heynicebits said:
Used this method today and was pretty happy with the results.

The wife's car was showing some oxidation and was getting a bit a sort of frosted look.

I used:

Milwaukee Tight Angle Drill with Drill adapter and 2-7/8 backing plate
3m Sanding Discs in 500,800,1500 wet, 3000 wet
Megs Plastic X
1:1 Spar Ureth. High Gloss to Mineral Spirits
Scott Shop Towels
Low Tack Tape

The before was worse than what the picture shows. The flash hid alot of the damage:

elQCK.jpg


Taping it up after 3000 I taped it out again because of the moisture:

93IT5.jpg


After:

EWIME.jpg

L0jyX.jpg


Just wish I could have gotten some better photos without flash.

:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...


I know what you mean about the flash hiding the true look of headlights...i can imagine what they really looked like...they turned out real nice though...did a great job:dblthumb2:...Just one thing though and i hope you don't take this the wrong way...but thats one of the craziest looking tape jobs ive ever seen lol....i mean if it works it works though right:props: Nice work
 
lol, i know. I did it really fast, cause it was only to prevent the mineral spirits and coating from leaking over. :D
 
Just finished reading all 50 pages of this thread...now my head hurts. LOL

When applying the 50/50 spar mixture... are people folding the shop towel to the same height of the lens and making one pass across? Or just overlapping a couple smaller passes across the lens?

What is the minimum cure time when applied in sun? using high beams at night? heat gun?
 
The 50-50 mix stays wet plenty long enough to work and blend with a small "applicator" so you don't have to do a one swipe application. I use a 1-2" size and work the edges, then work back and forth... sometimes from top down, sometimes bottom up. lol
 
Just fold and wipe. Just keep a good layer on the lens and dont wipe for too long. It doesnt have much working time before you start to get smearing. If you mess up, just wipe it down and do it again.
 
Make sure the folded paper towel is saturated and you can make several passes. Obviously fewer if it's hot outside or you are working under the full sun on the headlight
 
Hello all. I've been using this method for a couple small used car lots where I live for about a year now. I have a few questions for you all. I've been experimenting with some less expensive 3" sanding discs and just want some feedback from the group. I started with strictly 3M discs but then found some much cheaper. I just want to compare what others are using to see if the ones I am using are ok or if I need to go back to the 3M. The other problem that I've run into is newer headlamps that only have partial deterioration at the tops seem to be extremely hard to sand through the bottom part to remove all of the original coating. I've had to literally hand sand it dry with 60 grit paper and then go in with wet 280, 400, 800, 1500 and 3000. Can others offer any advice? This process takes me about 3 hours. Thanks for the help. Love the forum.

Aj
 
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