Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea

You do not need to polish the lens if you are applying the spar urethane coating, it's the same as when you paint, you want it to bite into the surface.

I am surprised nobody has tried Opti-Coat yet on headlights, since it should be a permanent coating. I have not tried it myself, however it would be much better than the urethane mix especially since it's not as messy and permanent.


Plenty of people have used Opti-coat...im not sure of any posts on this thread...but ive seen many posts of people who have used opti-coat on the entire car including the headlights...with very good results and hold up. Longest ive seen so far is 16 months...and thats not just headlights, but the entire car.
 
Mitsuman95.....I agree....I posted earlier about that. I am here in Florida and get quite a few lights that just the top part is screwed up and have tried using 800, 600 and 400 to remove the "good" clear and all it did was dull my discs like it was titanium. I end up using 60 grit(because thats all I have on hand) by hand or a rough sanding block just to remove the "good" clear. I also tried blending the bad into the good and it left a visable line that was noticable to me. I definately admit that I am NOT a bodyman or pro at doing the headlights though. It's good to know that I am not the only one having a difficult time with those lights. I am going to get like a 220 disc or something...or else just have to go through 10 discs of 400 for one set of lights. Those kind are tough. Give me some 2000 Chevy Cavaliers or Chryslers that the coating is completely gone on, all day long.......ha
Im the MAN

this makes life a lot easier!!!!...like you, i have been removing the entire coating...until today...

i had a few clients today that had bad clear on the top, and good clear on the bottom. i hit up the bad clear with 1200 on my drill until all the yellow was gone. this left me with a visual difference between the exposed surface and the cleared portion. i followed it up as usual with my finishing grits. compounded and cleared. the entire light looked new. once you hit the non cleared portion of the light with the compound it blends them both together. Try it out!

The mix should store just as long as the original product. After all, the original product itself is stored in a seal tight container.

Am using the Griot's DA Polisher here and I follow up the the finishing foam pad. Seems to work for me.

As i had expected. I havent read of anyone pre-mixing until now. It makes sense.

I might need to pick up a finishing pad, the light looks great during the day going from 1200-2000 but i still see swirls, at night, with lights on, when looking up close...during the day its not noticeable.

I have been using a drill but have a small 3" Griot's machine coming in the mail. I've tried both ways. Mostly I used just wet sanding with 400, 800, 1500 and then a 3M Trizact 3000 foam pad. I have tried going to 1500 and then compounding and spar. 93Fox said though, that the compounding doesn't give the spar a good rough surface to "bite into". That makes sense to me, so I think I am gonna go back to just pads to 3000 and no compound.

HotRod compounded and it lasted a couple years, i dont think a slightly more abrasive surface would make it last any longer.

You do not need to polish the lens if you are applying the spar urethane coating, it's the same as when you paint, you want it to bite into the surface.

I am surprised nobody has tried Opti-Coat yet on headlights, since it should be a permanent coating. I have not tried it myself, however it would be much better than the urethane mix especially since it's not as messy and permanent.

Dont be surprised. The spar mix hides a lot of imperfections unlike opti-coat. I wonder if anybody has applied opti-coat after applying the spar mix....
 
this makes life a lot easier!!!!...like you, i have been removing the entire coating...until today...

i had a few clients today that had bad clear on the top, and good clear on the bottom. i hit up the bad clear with 1200 on my drill until all the yellow was gone. this left me with a visual difference between the exposed surface and the cleared portion. i followed it up as usual with my finishing grits. compounded and cleared. the entire light looked new. once you hit the non cleared portion of the light with the compound it blends them both together. Try it out!



As i had expected. I havent read of anyone pre-mixing until now. It makes sense.

I might need to pick up a finishing pad, the light looks great during the day going from 1200-2000 but i still see swirls, at night, with lights on, when looking up close...during the day its not noticeable.



HotRod compounded and it lasted a couple years, i dont think a slightly more abrasive surface would make it last any longer.



Dont be surprised. The spar mix hides a lot of imperfections unlike opti-coat. I wonder if anybody has applied opti-coat after applying the spar mix....

I Doubt it...from what ive read with how opti coat works..it doesn't play well with a surface that is coated...and since the spare is a type of coating other than clear, it PROBABLY wouldn't last. Not saying don't try it...but if you went with opticoat...id totally skip the spar lol. Might have to work your sandpaper more...but the OC should hold up much longer.
 
mitsuman95;.....................this makes life a lot easier!!!!...like you, i have been removing the entire coating...until today...

i had a few clients today that had bad clear on the top, and good clear on the bottom. i hit up the bad clear with 1200 on my drill until all the yellow was gone. this left me with a visual difference between the exposed surface and the cleared portion. i followed it up as usual with my finishing grits. compounded and cleared. the entire light looked new. once you hit the non cleared portion of the light with the compound it blends them both together. Try it out!

HotRod compounded and it lasted a couple years, i dont think a slightly more abrasive surface would make it last any longer.

Mitsuman95.......what type of tool are you using while compounding? Drill? DA? or rotary?
 
I received my Griot's 3" machine today and immediately tried it out on a lens that I have half done on one side and untouched on the other side. I've had this for about a year with BG sealant/uv protectant as a demo to take with me to show the difference. After reading another thread about removing old coatings with a brand new quality razor blade, I tried that too. It worked fabulous!!! I'm amazed. After the razor blade, I used my Griot's with some 800, followed by 1500, 3000 and compound....then Spar......Wow! That was done in like 20 minutes. I'm excited to try it out on a real world car(instead of my model) to see if it works that quick and easy on that. I did use the drill for the compounding. It seemed to work better for that part, but the Griot's(dry sanding) worked amazingly well....and I probably could have used 1 disc of each grit for both lights. Me likeee, likeee......ha
 
I received my Griot's 3" machine today and immediately tried it out on a lens that I have half done on one side and untouched on the other side. I've had this for about a year with BG sealant/uv protectant as a demo to take with me to show the difference. After reading another thread about removing old coatings with a brand new quality razor blade, I tried that too. It worked fabulous!!! I'm amazed. After the razor blade, I used my Griot's with some 800, followed by 1500, 3000 and compound....then Spar......Wow! That was done in like 20 minutes. I'm excited to try it out on a real world car(instead of my model) to see if it works that quick and easy on that. I did use the drill for the compounding. It seemed to work better for that part, but the Griot's(dry sanding) worked amazingly well....and I probably could have used 1 disc of each grit for both lights. Me likeee, likeee......ha

Nice! Sounds about right. The razor blade can make short work of nasty stuff, but be really careful to not leave bad marks from start/stops. Those will take a good bit of standing to remove.
 
I received my Griot's 3" machine today and immediately tried it out on a lens that I have half done on one side and untouched on the other side. I've had this for about a year with BG sealant/uv protectant as a demo to take with me to show the difference. After reading another thread about removing old coatings with a brand new quality razor blade, I tried that too. It worked fabulous!!! I'm amazed. After the razor blade, I used my Griot's with some 800, followed by 1500, 3000 and compound....then Spar......Wow! That was done in like 20 minutes. I'm excited to try it out on a real world car(instead of my model) to see if it works that quick and easy on that. I did use the drill for the compounding. It seemed to work better for that part, but the Griot's(dry sanding) worked amazingly well....and I probably could have used 1 disc of each grit for both lights. Me likeee, likeee......ha
i got my griot cpl weeks ago hve not tried it yet
 
i want to post a pix of a car i done with 50/50 spar and minerals spirts thxs pixs be fore and after
 
Lights look very good reggie.....those Ford Focus seem like they all get bad quickly...which is good for us...lol I'm hoping to get to give my Griot's a workout this weekend.
 
Reggie.....what process are you using?

Wills....Do you use a specific brand of sanding discs/paper? I've started using these discs I found from Abrasive Resource for $22.00 @ 100 discs and some Rhyno discs and it seems like I am getting more swirls. I'm not sure if it is my technic or the new discs. Any insight?
I'm going to try to attach a few pics from this mornings jobs.
These came out ok but, they fought me. I dunno? Maybe I'm just being too picky? I just hate when they aren't perfect! I ended up using my Griots machine and when I got to the 3000..the swirls became evident and I had to go backwards and hand sand the swirls out. UGH! What the heck am I doing wrong?
 
By the way...Here is the visual aid example that I use when convincing someone to hire my services.
 
Reggie.....what process are you using?

Wills....Do you use a specific brand of sanding discs/paper? I've started using these discs I found from Abrasive Resource for $22.00 @ 100 discs and some Rhyno discs and it seems like I am getting more swirls. I'm not sure if it is my technic or the new discs. Any insight?
I'm going to try to attach a few pics from this mornings jobs.
These came out ok but, they fought me. I dunno? Maybe I'm just being too picky? I just hate when they aren't perfect! I ended up using my Griots machine and when I got to the 3000..the swirls became evident and I had to go backwards and hand sand the swirls out. UGH! What the heck am I doing wrong?


Outcome was nice. Id say you may not be cleaning your surface/disc often enough. You may THINK you are sanding, when really you're just spreading dust around lol. That would be my best bet. I use a clean MF to clean the light and the disc quite often. That is why wet sanding is SO nice.

I bought Megs Unigrit discs and they are only about $10/50 for 320/500/800 but are more expensive for the 1500/3000. I bought the 1500 but hand sand for the 3000...much cheaper lol
You seem to be getting a lot of work...how have you been going about getting it?
 
You may be right about not cleaning the pad and surface often enough. When I watched the video for the Griots, they show dry sanding all the grits with a fairly high speed and rarely stop to clean the pad. Maybe I need to slow the machine down and clean the pad and surface more often. (or go back to wet sanding the whole way) I am curious if the type of paper makes a difference? (silicone carbide, aluminum oxide..ect) The ones I get say they are made for plastics and other surfaces. I don't know if all types break down the same as you use them or if some are more aggressive during that period of time that could cause my swirls. I have a feeling though that you are right about the build-up of dust causing it. I was concerned about that when I bought the 3" griots because its slowest speed is 3,500rpm whereas the 6" griots runs 2,500 to 6,800. I may just return the 3" and exchange for the 6".
As for me getting lots of work, its just luck. I only do headlights on the weekend, so I try to line up a few every weekend if possible. I have two used car lots and just sell myself whenever I am out and about to people I talk with. I've tried just sticking my business card on windshields at Walmart and other places, but I've watched from a distance and most people just throw it away. It works much better if you can actually explain to them the entire process that you do and how it can benefit them. Thats ALL people want nowadays! Whats in it for them?! You gotta convince them that NOT doing their lights now will cost them more money later and the outcome will be less favorable. You also have to remind them how much NEW lights cost and how much better they will be able to see at night when your done. Lastly,...pick the right prospects. Young people who are fixin up their ride are good choices....nice cars with crappy lights..work well........the crappy cars with crappy lights don't buy....lol
 
Reggie.....what process are you using?

Wills....Do you use a specific brand of sanding discs/paper? I've started using these discs I found from Abrasive Resource for $22.00 @ 100 discs and some Rhyno discs and it seems like I am getting more swirls. I'm not sure if it is my technic or the new discs. Any insight?
I'm going to try to attach a few pics from this mornings jobs.
These came out ok but, they fought me. I dunno? Maybe I'm just being too picky? I just hate when they aren't perfect! I ended up using my Griots machine and when I got to the 3000..the swirls became evident and I had to go backwards and hand sand the swirls out. UGH! What the heck am I doing wrong?
my process i started on the mercedes i start out 320-500-800-1000(wet) compound spray yellow x on the lens clear it up good so the cleat coat i used was one step lens sealer from dvelup they just came out with and the cherokee i done it with same process i started at 220 sanding disc up to 1500 wet compound and did the 50/50 mix helman spar urthenane clear gloss/minerals spirts 50/50 mix
 
Lookin good man. You doin dealership lights or just individuals? How much have you been gettin a set? Nice work.
seems like dealership around here dont want me to do business with them i try to get them in bulk the will not do it, most want it done for no cost like 20 bucks a set so how i get my business word of mouth advertising my shirt and hats leave flyers on cars and stores
 
You may be right about not cleaning the pad and surface often enough. When I watched the video for the Griots, they show dry sanding all the grits with a fairly high speed and rarely stop to clean the pad. Maybe I need to slow the machine down and clean the pad and surface more often. (or go back to wet sanding the whole way) I am curious if the type of paper makes a difference? (silicone carbide, aluminum oxide..ect) The ones I get say they are made for plastics and other surfaces. I don't know if all types break down the same as you use them or if some are more aggressive during that period of time that could cause my swirls. I have a feeling though that you are right about the build-up of dust causing it. I was concerned about that when I bought the 3" griots because its slowest speed is 3,500rpm whereas the 6" griots runs 2,500 to 6,800. I may just return the 3" and exchange for the 6".
As for me getting lots of work, its just luck. I only do headlights on the weekend, so I try to line up a few every weekend if possible. I have two used car lots and just sell myself whenever I am out and about to people I talk with. I've tried just sticking my business card on windshields at Walmart and other places, but I've watched from a distance and most people just throw it away. It works much better if you can actually explain to them the entire process that you do and how it can benefit them. Thats ALL people want nowadays! Whats in it for them?! You gotta convince them that NOT doing their lights now will cost them more money later and the outcome will be less favorable. You also have to remind them how much NEW lights cost and how much better they will be able to see at night when your done. Lastly,...pick the right prospects. Young people who are fixin up their ride are good choices....nice cars with crappy lights..work well........the crappy cars with crappy lights don't buy....lol
that how i try to line my business up during the weekend as well some folks dont get the concept their plenty of cars need it but they dont get it oh i can still see their nothing wrong with my lights as they say but i never saw a person throw my flyer down i had a customer i go to and i put flyer all in the parking lot and one day i was giving him one and he said you the guy was doing that i said yes he finally gave in and i went to his house done his caddilac sts
 
You may be right about not cleaning the pad and surface often enough. When I watched the video for the Griots, they show dry sanding all the grits with a fairly high speed and rarely stop to clean the pad. Maybe I need to slow the machine down and clean the pad and surface more often. (or go back to wet sanding the whole way) I am curious if the type of paper makes a difference? (silicone carbide, aluminum oxide..ect) The ones I get say they are made for plastics and other surfaces. I don't know if all types break down the same as you use them or if some are more aggressive during that period of time that could cause my swirls. I have a feeling though that you are right about the build-up of dust causing it. I was concerned about that when I bought the 3" griots because its slowest speed is 3,500rpm whereas the 6" griots runs 2,500 to 6,800. I may just return the 3" and exchange for the 6".
As for me getting lots of work, its just luck. I only do headlights on the weekend, so I try to line up a few every weekend if possible. I have two used car lots and just sell myself whenever I am out and about to people I talk with. I've tried just sticking my business card on windshields at Walmart and other places, but I've watched from a distance and most people just throw it away. It works much better if you can actually explain to them the entire process that you do and how it can benefit them. Thats ALL people want nowadays! Whats in it for them?! You gotta convince them that NOT doing their lights now will cost them more money later and the outcome will be less favorable. You also have to remind them how much NEW lights cost and how much better they will be able to see at night when your done. Lastly,...pick the right prospects. Young people who are fixin up their ride are good choices....nice cars with crappy lights..work well........the crappy cars with crappy lights don't buy....lol
the mercedes u see in the pic we call 2 diffrent dealer to get a quote one dealer said 260 cost and another quote 590 when she realize that she shook her head and said dam i tiold her 75 from me and a 1yr guarantee and she was happy i try ro explain to them about doing it get them done at a resonanble price i just tell them call the dealer and get the price from them mostdealership charge any where from 175 and up and they dont apply sealer just wet sand and compound polish in 30 min or less and overcharge i try to do my job in a hr or less one jaguar dealer was charging 285 and up if i done those prices i would never get any business some folks say what about the kits in the store i tell them try it if u want a quick fix u want it done professional well here i am
 
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