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So the DA can still peel paint on edge?
What I mean it that it is possible to abrade through the paint if you are using a very abrasive compound and work any spot too long. Not saying it is likely, just that it is possible. My point is that edges and sharp edged body lines have less paint on them than the flat areas do so be mindful of that.
 
I'm going charge people now 75 dollar for full exterior detailing.

Which includes wash, clay, compound, polish and wax, clean wheels and dress tires.


When first starting out, if you're detailing daily drivers, that is grocery getters, if they have swirls and show signs of neglect, at least to our standards, that's normal and an indicator that the car and the owner are not good candidates for doing show car work.

They are better candidates for doing production work and there's nothing wrong with this, it's called matching your services to your customer.

In the above quoted portion, where I made the words compound and polish bold, drop these two steps and just use a quality cleaner/wax.

If you want to do those to steps for "practice" then go for it but for daily drivers for the average Joe or Joanne Consumer, they likely don't understand the difference between a Swirl and a Squirrel and chances are good they don't know how to take care of a show car finish and won't take care of a show car finish, so creating a show car finish on their Ford Taurus won't be a good use of your time unless you're trying to get experience.

I would recommend just using a one-step cleaner/wax for daily drivers and when you start getting some success under your belt, then when you come across the guy or gal with the "nice" car, the car that is their toy, the car that gets parked in the garage and babied, then offer them the multi-step process, learn how to explain to them the difference in a one-step and a multi-step process and thus the need for more time and a higher charge.


Washing, claying, compounding, polishing, then waxing a neglected finish using a PC is going to take you 6-12 hours depending on the size of the vehicle and a whole bunch of other factors...

If you cut out the compounding and polishing step and just use a cleaner/wax you can cut out about 4+ hours...

Don't promise a "Swirl-Free Finish", promise to restore the shine and clarity. If they want swirls removed up-sell them to your higher quality package.



Some points I touched I have articles on...


The difference between a swirl and squirrel

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business

The Mindset of a Professional Detailer



And check these out if you haven't already...

Expose yourself for more business...

How to put up a website for about $20.00 a year

Tips for using a discussion forum to reach more customers...

Brand Yourself, Brand your Forum Nickname and Brand your Business Name

How to choose a name for your detailing business





:xyxthumbs:
 
What I mean it that it is possible to abrade through the paint if you are using a very abrasive compound and work any spot too long. Not saying it is likely, just that it is possible. My point is that edges and sharp edged body lines have less paint on them than the flat areas do so be mindful of that.


I'll back you up on the above....


Plus, unless it's right off the assembly line or out of a paint booth you don't know who's worked on the car before you and what they used...

It could have been Jim the owner that hand washed and waxed it with Turtle Wax or it could have seen Bubba the Caveman Detailer and seen some archaic compound with a 20 year old wool pad on a 30 pound Milwaukee Sander/Polisher from the 70's with 2 speeds, fast and less fast and he could have ground enough paint off high points till it's "Whisper Thin" and then you, the "Next Guy" to detail the car get to find out the paint is thin the hard way...


Be careful around edges, raised body lines and corners as the paint in these areas can often times be thinner, especially if it's an older car that's been around the detail block a few times...


:)
 
Thanks guys. Yeah I usually do one step for daily drivers. Which cleaner/wax would you suggest? I got 2 free sample bottle from Meguiar's kit, wanted to know if there was something better? And which pads do I use when using clear/wax? Orange, white or blue flat from LC?

Today I think I'm going be working on an 2007 350z. It's a small car so I hope I can get the wash done fast and work on claying and then compounding area where needed and then polish using 205. If it takes me too long I'm going see if I can get a little more. Going do a test spot on the hood to see if I can remove them. I know 75 is nothing but this will be my first time working on a heavy swirled car. So I get to test out all the stuff I bought. I will try to take pics while working and loading up as I go. So I can maybe get some feed backs. Thanks again.
 
What I mean it that it is possible to abrade through the paint if you are using a very abrasive compound and work any spot too long. Not saying it is likely, just that it is possible. My point is that edges and sharp edged body lines have less paint on them than the flat areas do so be mindful of that.

I'll back you up on the above....


Plus, unless it's right off the assembly line or out of a paint booth you don't know who's worked on the car before you and what they used...

It could have been Jim the owner that hand washed and waxed it with Turtle Wax or it could have seen Bubba the Caveman Detailer and seen some archaic compound with a 20 year old wool pad on a 30 pound Milwaukee Sander/Polisher from the 70's with 2 speeds, fast and less fast and he could have ground enough paint off high points till it's "Whisper Thin" and then you, the "Next Guy" to detail the car get to find out the paint is thin the hard way...


Be careful around edges, raised body lines and corners as the paint in these areas can often times be thinner, especially if it's an older car that's been around the detail block a few times...


:)

Thanks guys I will take this into mind when working on his car today. It's so damn cold outside. I really hope I can use his garage. And I will be start working around 2pm and it get dark here around 5ish. Doesn't give me enough time to work in the light.
 
What is your time worth? I think you should go a head and charge fair price. $75 should be for something that will take you a lot less time, maybe something like wash, clay, quick wax and tire dressing?

When you start to do work for cheap, people will be expecting that all the time, I'm a contractor, and I never give my work for less than what it should be, and if people don't want to pay the price, just let them go a head fine someone else.

I'm guessing that you want to do this to get customers and practice, on set of giving your work for cheap, I would just do a few of my friends and/or family members and take lots of pictures of the process, show them what you can do.

How do you thing people will react when the second time they come to you and you ask them for $250-$300 for something you did for $75 before? If you want to give them a discount, give it to them on the second, or third visit, (If they come back with in less than 30 days), that way the worse is already done (the correction).

Just my 2 cents...

:iagree:The third paragraph is worth a lot of thought. You're devaluing yourself from the start. Start the way you want to finish. Find another way to promote yourself. Get what you're worth from the start.
 
Yeah, right now I don't know how much I'm worth. Because I never really did any paint correction on a car. So if I have to work 10+ hours on this car I will. I'm going see if I can make this car look like new again. I seen some amazing 50/50 shot here before, the recent one was on a black G35. Crazy shot, Def makes detailers look good. Going put everything in this car today, hoping I can achieve the same results.

But this friend is not a really good one and I know he prob not going pay again for a full correction if it cost 150-300 dollars, he is very cheap. When I went over his house a week ago to check out his car and wanted to know if he wanted my service. Which was wash, clay, wax and dress tires for 85. He wouldn't budge and said his friend can do it for 50. So shady tried to low ball me, so I left. But being OCD that I am, I wanted to make that 350z look nice again. I just hope it won't take more then 10+ hours.
 
Most of us are hobby type and will never make a living detailing cars, if you are serious, they do have classes to improve your skill.

You are selling yourself, and your time...

Do it right or don't do it, now who want's to be known as the cheapest guy on the block...

It is a lot of work to make a car look better so a guy can sell it for more. It is all about money and pride, and that is the way we keep score.

Some charge more, some charge less but in the end we all know what we are worth...

The Hobby Guy.
 
Here is something I have done in my line of work, (Contractor/Handyman) I'm as selective as the customer, if not more, when I'm giving an estimate just they are seen how much I know about how to fix, build what ever they want, I'm seen what kind of person they are, I try to see if they can be a PITA, and how cheap they are, and if I don't like them, I will come up with an excuse no to do the job, to me, is not worth the headache.

Take into account materials, will you have to drive to where the car is or will they bring it to you? (If you have to get there, then there is a lot of "dead" time to pick up your tools and get there, CHARGE FOR THAT WORK AND TIME). Also, the time to clean up after you are done, like cleaning your pads and MF, again, time the customer will not see, because they will be driving around enjoying their freshly polished car, but again, charge for it.

Personally, and this is me, before charging less than $10 p/h and to a family member or friend, I would just do it for free, again, that is just me... Actually, I don't get out of bed for $10 an hour...
 
Yeah I understand. I'm going start looking for classes in NJ area, I wished I lived close to FL or else I would go to their 101 & 102 classes.
 
Yeah I understand. I'm going start looking for classes in NJ area, I wished I lived close to FL or else I would go to their 101 & 102 classes.

I just want to say that if you can find some way to take the trip down here it IS WELL WORTH the time and money. You will go home with a wealth of knowledge from Mike's teaching, a better understanding of materials, a ton of confidence to get you on your way, and meet some really nice people. Make the trip happen if you can.
 
I just want to say that if you can find some way to take the trip down here it IS WELL WORTH the time and money. You will go home with a wealth of knowledge from Mike's teaching, a better understanding of materials, a ton of confidence to get you on your way, and meet some really nice people. Make the trip happen if you can.

Your lucky to live in Fl. So close to the AG team, and great weather all year long. It's 39 degrees today and I'm going start washing the car around 4 p.m. The water is probably going freeze if I don't wipe it off too quickly. lol
 
Your lucky to live in Fl. So close to the AG team, and great weather all year long. It's 39 degrees today and I'm going start washing the car around 4 p.m. The water is probably going freeze if I don't wipe it off too quickly. lol

Yes, I am Blessed to be here. The only thing better would be to be a part of the AG team. What part of Jersey? I use to spend time in Bernardsville. Beautiful country.
 
It's so damn cold outside. I really hope I can use his garage. it gets dark here around 5ish. Doesn't give me enough time to work in the light.
First of all, "please" take this as constructive criticism. It seems that this project may be doomed from the start. What will you do if you can not use his garage? Do you have sufficient portable lighting to finish the job? Here in PA it got down to 28 degrees last night. Have you planned to dress properly to work late into the evening out in the cold? You may want to give him a call and see what you have available to work with instead of just guessing or hoping things. I'd hate to see you get stuck in a really awkward position where you can't finish your first job. 100% clear communication before the job is started is always the best scenario. That way you know what to expect from him and he knows what to expect from you. With clear communication there will be less chances for surprises for both parties involved.

But this friend is not a really good one , he is very cheap, So shady tried to low ball me.
Don't forget that you are posting to an open forum where anyone could be following this thread, even Joe customer. There was a thread a few weeks ago where someone was openly venting in a thread here where the customer and a previous detailer got involved in the thread. I really don't think the ending was so good. This is just a suggestion that, to prevent getting yourself into an embarrassing situation, try to leave ill feelings out of your posting. If I were the customer and read the above comments I would have just pulled the plug on the whole deal.
 
I live in East Brunswick, prob an hour away. It sucks here in winter season. I don't really like the cold, can't wait to work in the spring.
 
Yeah it was stupid of me to post that, but I was very angry when he tried to get it down to 50. I asked him what would your friend do for that 50 and he made something up and said "he will wash with grit guard". He only knew about grit guard from my facebook posting. I was a bit offended when he lied to me and then tried to get my service for only 50 bucks, and not considering how cold it is outside and how many hours I put into the car.
 
First of all, "please" take this as constructive criticism. It seems that this project may be doomed from the start. What will you do if you can not use his garage? Do you have sufficient portable lighting to finish the job? Here in PA it got down to 28 degrees last night. Have you planned to dress properly to work late into the evening out in the cold? You may want to give him a call and see what you have available to work with instead of just guessing or hoping things. I'd hate to see you get stuck in a really awkward position where you can't finish your first job. 100% clear communication before the job is started is always the best scenario. That way you know what to expect from him and he knows what to expect from you. With clear communication there will be less chances for surprises for both parties involved.


Yeah I called earlier to make sure I can use the garage. I appreciate construction criticism I'm very open to try new things and willing to learn.

Should I just bring it to a touch less car wash instead of washing it myself?
 
Yeah I called earlier to make sure I can use the garage. I appreciate construction criticism I'm very open to try new things and willing to learn.

Should I just bring it to a touch less car wash instead of washing it myself?
I live in a mobile home park where they do not allow car washing here. While I can't run a business out of here i do sometimes have a car dropped off from time to time to do here. I pump a lot of quarters into the local car wash to get started on those jobs. If you have it washed at the local car wash then you can just do a waterless wash before claying the car. I do that a lot and it works well but I use the wand so that I am sure to blow the dirt and loose grit out of all the places where it can hide.
 
I don't have any waterless wash soap. Can I buy them at local shops? like Pep boys? Autozone?
 
I don't have any waterless wash soap. Can I buy them at local shops? like Pep boys? Autozone?
I have never seen them at places like that. Are there any RV Centers local to you? A lot of RV centers carry a product called Quick and Easy Wash. (QEW) While I haven't used it myself I have been told by a lot of guys that it works just like Optimum No Rinse (ONR). Maybe you could call around to see if anyone carries it locally. I will be in the same situation next week, washing and polishing out in the cold.
 
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