Should I give up?

Those swirl marks that he has are shallow and light.This is caused by micro dirt in the mitt with to much pressure applied.
 
Here is an example of a car that's NOT "perfect." It might look like it in the pic, but get to the 2-3 foot distance and there are some RIDS and other defects that I'm not going to frustrate myself trying to get out. To me, it looks amazing and a heck of a lot better than 99% + of the dark colored cars I see everyday. Along with learning the nuances of quality detailing, learn tolerance and acceptance too. It will get you far in more than just detailing.

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GSKR said:
Those swirl marks that he has are shallow and light.This is caused by micro dirt in the mitt with to much pressure applied.
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In that case, I would recommend a good HEAVY rinsing before ever touching the car, heavy suds in the clean bucket, a rinse bucket AND an intensive blast with the hose to the mitt after EVERY pass, no more multiple passes and "flipping" the mitt. And more frequent rinsing while doing the wash so dislodged dirt is washed OFF the car instead of being allowed to get stuck back on the surface if the soapy water dries before being rinsed off.
 
Ford Fest said:
Nothing noticable, but corrected just to be sure prior to coating. I've never used coating so I went with McKees. I think I applied it correctly.



Not sure what this is, sorry.

When washing I typically make a pass at the top of the panel working may way down. After making 3-4 passes, I flip the mit over and wash that same area again. Then I rinse the mit and start the process again. For example: 3-4 passes only covers the glass, rinse mit; then the door to the trim.
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Here's a link to Garry Dean explaining his washing method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIm2JgXOBI8
 
Don M said:
In that case, I would recommend a good HEAVY rinsing before ever touching the car, heavy suds in the clean bucket, a rinse bucket AND an intensive blast with the hose to the mitt after EVERY pass, no more multiple passes and "flipping" the mitt. And more frequent rinsing while doing the wash so dislodged dirt is washed OFF the car instead of being allowed to get stuck back on the surface if the soapy water dries before being rinsed off.
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thats what i do, i cover the whole car in foam then pressure wash it off before ever touching the car with a mitt. a lot of times thats all it needs
 
That garry wash method would be ideal for light colored cars.Heres the promblem with that,takes to long and I see more risk involved with grit riding all over the car.Black you need light soap and lots of water.wipe and rinse at the same time will cure his promblems.The water will lift the dirt as you wipe.Need the sponge though it really helps.
 
My advice would be to try a different coating. CQUK or Gloss Coat.
 
GSKR said:
I'm against tunnel washing as well it makes life easier sometimes.If you find the right tunnel wash that is clean and pretty new and less abrading cloths there not that bad.90 percent of scratching and marring comes from the prep guys slamming there wash brooms against the paint.
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The tunnel car wash is moving towards foam brush technology, introduced by Ryko in 1996. These foam brushes do not absorb water, or allow dirt to permeate them. They're also more gentle to the finish of the vehicle. Recently, Belanger introduced the "SpinLite" series of equipment, which reduces brush speed drastically, while maintaining great cleaning efficiency.

Following a muddy car into a tunnel negates all of this though - unless you have an old school bristle system, which presents problems of it's own if not properly lubricated.

Every manufacturer, and old school operator insists that bristle brushes cleaned the best, and we're the most gentle to the finish.
 
I wouldn't use the GD rinseless method as he shows it on a black car - the whole panel with a single quarter towel?!?!

I presoak like he does, but I use all quarters of a towel on a panel flipping and folding frequently so I have a clean surface. Basically one towel per panel but always a clean surface. 1100 GSM Korean towels. Takes longer, but no swirls. GD method as he shows it in that video seems too risky on a black car that is soiled...Even if little pressure is being applied. You're still dragging dirt.

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Well, here is a fact and this was told to me by someone in the automotive paint industry. With the NEWER high end GM black vehicles, they're is using a softer clear on BLACK paint. You have very soft paint and just being black, you will see everything. I don't care how good you take care of ANY black vehicle, you're gonna see noticeable defects, especially on newer GM black paint. Either deal with it, or buy another color. Seriously.
 
Hey guys,

Thank you for the questions and feedback. Sorry I may have left out some details.

I did buy the car new. Have only hand washed or WW/RW. I use one MF per panel to wipe, followed by another towel to dry. I use a PC polisher with Pinnacle Swirl and either a organge or white pad depending on what was needed. I did use the McKees paint prep polish prior to coating. Again, new to coating; so not sure that I applied it correctly, but think I did. I may have too high expectations about the coating. After one wash it seems to not have that same slickness. To wash the car I'm using McKees Power Wash. My wash method is quality wool pad, a couple of passes before rinsing in the clean bucket water with grit guard.

I'm thinking the swirls were caused by the last wash after we had nasty roads due to snow and salt. I went to the local wash bay and use water only high pressure to remove as much as possible followed by a rinseless spray. The next day I hand washed the car in the driveway. Maybe the remaining road film was just too much grime and the soap didn't get it lubricated enough???

I not expecting my DD to be a show car, but after all of this effort; it is frustrating.

With having applied McKees coating a couple of moths ago. What are my options to correct the swirls? I'll probably wait until spring.

In regard to the name Ford Fest. I am a huge fan of Mustangs, F-series trucks, and the GT. However, when it comes to the full size SUV market. I truly believe that GM owns that market. I'm on my third Denali over the past 13 years. My 2007 was a great vehicle. Virtually no issues after owning it for 9 years.

I'll go back through the posts on this thread to see if I miseed any questions.

Thanks again
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Well, here is a fact and this was told to me by someone in the automotive paint industry. With the NEWER high end GM black vehicles, they're is using a softer clear on BLACK paint. You have very soft paint and just being black, you will see everything. I don't care how good you take care of ANY black vehicle, you're gonna see noticeable defects, especially on newer GM black paint. Either deal with it, or buy another color. Seriously.
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I wondered if the clear is just soft. I actually have been looking at swapping cars due to the color. When it is clean and swirl free, it is hands down the most beautiful color. But, black cars hate me. Lol
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Well, here is a fact and this was told to me by someone in the automotive paint industry. With the NEWER high end GM black vehicles, they're is using a softer clear on BLACK paint.
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Why would they do that? The only reason I can think of, and I guess this might make sense to a dealer, is that when people come in with their swirled-up black car, it's easier for them to polish out.
 
I think the saying goes: You don't own a black car, a black car owns you.

Up until my current car, every car I've ever owned has been black. I said to myself that I would never buy another black one again when I was getting my new one. Just way to much work and aggravation.


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Setec Astronomy said:
Why would they do that? The only reason I can think of, and I guess this might make sense to a dealer, is that when people come in with their swirled-up black car, it's easier for them to polish out.
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i wonder the same thing unless its just a cost thing and the cheaper paint just happens to be soft.
 
They are different drying aid? Megs xpress wax or ammo hydrate.

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BMW435 said:
I think the saying goes: You don't own a black car, a black car owns you.

Up until my current car, every car I've ever owned has been black. I said to myself that I would never buy another black one again when I was getting my new one. Just way to much work and aggravation.


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Quote of the thread!!!

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I'll add a couple things:

When you wash side panels, do you wash all the way down? I go around a vehicle two or three times. Wash tops (includes glass and pillars) and hoods; wash tops of side panels and bumpers; wash lower parts around car. If conditions allow it, the first two rounds can be combined.

Like GSKR, I am currently using the Optimum blue sponge. So far, I like it better than any other wash tool. I've never tried a Big Red Sponge. Everything is done with a LIGHT touch and lots of fluid. I use a sprayer while conventional or rinseless washing (Foam gun for conventional and either a hand pump sprayer or a spray rig for rinseless).

I dry with a Master Blaster and often either a detail spray or wax. The Master Blaster can be held by the body instead of the handle to blow along the paint instead of at the paint. This allows an air hockey effect and thus a very LIGHT touch to the paint.

Just a couple things to try/think about.
 
Your car still looks good. Even with those baby swirls it looks better than 95 percent or more cars on the road.

Hard not to have marring with driving in a mix of airborne slurry of sand, brine and salt.
Besides it will give you something to do and admire in spring.
I honestly don't give a crap if I have to polish my 1 year old Gloss Coat to the bone in spring and start over.
Winter in the snow zone sucks and messes up any paint....if it's driven in it.

That machine is beautiful, even with the minor defects you have.
 
Ford Fest said:
Not sure where to go with this as frustration has hit. I was fortunate to be able to purchase a 2016 Yukon Denali back in May. I broke one of my own rules by picking black as a DD. I convinced myself that I could deal with it, but it is making me crazy.
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I know your frustration. Have had many black Daily Drivers including my current one. Good news is there's a problem and that's good because problems can be fixed. Let's just look at what it could be step by step. Forgive me I joined the thread late and didn't read every reply before hitting the reply button myself.


As most on this forum, I have spent hundreds on premium wash mits, pads, MF, washes, WW, detail sprays, drying aids, coatings etc that are only used for this car. I have used the 2 bucket method for every wash, using one mit for the body above the door trim and another for below the trim. I followup with blow drying and using detail spray as a drying aid. I only use the front to back wash pattern to wash or to remove light dust. I truly thought I have taken every precaution, but as I was walking back to the car in the parking lot I saw swirls; a lot of swirls. If it's this bad with the washing methods, coating etc that I have used, how bad would it be if I used an automatic car wash?
Could be products, could be technique. No slam at all intended as I'm sure like all of us you are careful and have good intentions. I do as well and can only really share what I do and use in hopes that it might shed light on some things compared to what you're doing. Just trying to help. Overall all the above sounds great. I'm not a two bucket guy when washing but that's me. I use two microfiber sponges and the same top/bottom technique. Instead of a rinse bucket I simply use the hose to blast off the sponge after each pass/section I wash. I use only the weight of the sponge as pressure with only a single pass over each area, never back and forth. I also wash front to back and dry or buff in the opposite directions only as to fully see if any scratches or marks appear which process is causing them. IN my case I've found every single time that I see a mark or imperfection that it's in my drying or buffing strokes.

I air dry 95% off my car and never wipe with a dry towel, always one that has been wet and squeezed out to the point where it's wet but won't leave streaks. I wet it in a 1gal pale that I fill part way with Uber Rinseless or CarPro Echo combo'd or simliar and distilled water. Wet the towel, wring out and go.

Wash wise, I am 90% Rinseless with a modified version of Gary Deal. 10% I may use a bucket. Even in harsh winter crap. I personally find the technique very safe and honestly a lot quicker overall and less messy. Lastly, I focus more too so while it sounds odd that I can focus and be more precise yet finish faster, I think it because there are less steps and less prep/clean up. I would as I did read, correct the front three panels and start over. Hood and two front fenders.

Happy to chime in again, but hope the above gets you a start or some information that's helpful. Hang in there.
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