SunJoe SPX3000 longer hose?

very nice setup!

I have the exact same gun with a 50" foot hose on my Sun Joe. Greatly improves the functionality of it.

Do you have any issues with stepping down to 2.0 orifice? Just wondering if it makes the pump strain.

BTW, the yellow 15 degree Sun Joe nozzle has a narrower fan than the 15 degree MTM nozzles. Since you can use the SJ nozzles on your gun or lance it seems to produce more pressure and gives you another option for cleaning tires, etc.

Also, that swivel sure makes life better!

Quite the opposite on the 2.0 nozzles- It feels like the pump is much happier.... Pressure is great and consistent. if you follow the specs on the SPX3000 and mate to MTMs nozzle size guide 2.0 is their recommended sizing - and yup original Sun Joe nozzles also fit and work as well.

And Swivel may be the best part of it for sure!!
 
I run 2.0 with my spx3000 and she runs very nicely. I did a pressure test and 2.0 orifice seems to yield the highest PSI (1300-1400), 2.5 stepped it down a bit to around 1100. Cant go wrong with either in my opinion. I just wished these units had a higher flow rate.
 
Geez. This is simple and yet confusing all at the same time because there are so many variables involved.

This question is about the Sun Joe. I realize that its pressure hose outlet is the less common M22-15mm size. Several of you have posted links to adapters that will allow you to use it with with either the stock hose, or with a more common sized aftermarket hose, which is what I'm looking to do (I need a longer hose). I haven't seen anyone post a link to this adapter yet:

Amazon.com: Twinkle Star 3/8" Quick Connect NPT to M22 15mm Metric Fitting for High Pressure Washer Gun and Hose, TWIS283: Garden & Outdoor

It's an M22-15mm female end to connect to the Sun Joe's hose outlet, and the other end is a standard female 3/8" QD. Is this adapter any better or worse than some of the others that have been posted? Then you'd need a hose with a male 3/8" QD on the end to mate up with this adapter.

I'm imagining myself going through the motions of connecting things together, and in my mind it *seems* like it would be easier and/or more ergonomic to have female QDs on the hose side of the connection. It would then possibly be more of a 1 hand operation to connect things together vs having one hand on a hose with a male QD and having to use the other hand to pull back the collar on the female QD attached to the unit.

So... that begs the question - has anyone been able to source an adapter that has an M22-15mm female on one end and a 3/8" male QD on the other end? Here's the M22-14mm version:

Amazon.com: Twinkle Star Pressure Washer Twist Connect M22 14mm X 3/8" Quick Disconnect Plug High Pressure Brass Fitting Quick Coupler Nipple, 5000 PSI, TWIS281: Garden & Outdoor

I know it can be done using multiple adapters, but I'm trying to see if it can be done with just one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNJFWN...olid=2ZPN5X070JFZC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 
I run 2.0 with my spx3000 and she runs very nicely. I did a pressure test and 2.0 orifice seems to yield the highest PSI (1300-1400), 2.5 stepped it down a bit to around 1100. Cant go wrong with either in my opinion. I just wished these units had a higher flow rate.

can you feel the difference between 1100 psi and 1300 psi? so would a 2.0 feel like its putting out more than a 2.5 or would it be hard to tell without a gauge?
 
can you feel the difference between 1100 psi and 1300 psi? so would a 2.0 feel like its putting out more than a 2.5 or would it be hard to tell without a gauge?

Matt at Obsessed Garage is putting together a list of all the nozzles for all the pressure washers on the market. I am not sure where he will be done with the testings, on his youtube channel is is halfway through, so he probably is further along than that. I am sure he shoot more videos than he publishes each day, so the testing is probably done and we just need for him to post the videos. But SunJoe is one of the companies he has already tested, so if you watch those videos, you will very likelly find an answer to your question. Otherwise, he is supposed to publish the list on his website once all has been completed.
 
can you feel the difference between 1100 psi and 1300 psi? so would a 2.0 feel like its putting out more than a 2.5 or would it be hard to tell without a gauge?

You cant tell at all to be honest... next season I may suck it up and buy the Kranzle K1322TS.
 
You cant tell at all to be honest... next season I'm either going to run 2.5 orifice nozzles or i may suck it up and buy the Kranzle K1322TS.

I watched the Kranzle episode with great interest. I was curious to see what the fuss was all about. I can't say I was impressed. Sure they are a little nicer... but not 10 times the price nicer. Also, Mat mentionned you can rebuild them and you can order replacement covers for them. He did not mention any price but I am sure it will cost at least the same price of a new pressure washer (from other brands) to do either. Where I worked before they had a commercial pressure washer and it broke about once a year. Everytime it did, it was in the shop for at least a week and the cost of repair was usually in between 200$ and 400$. For 400$ I have have 2 good quality pressure washers. So that is what I did when I purchased by last one. Waited for a sale, the 200$ models were selling half price for 100$ and I purchased 2. Now if one breaks I have a backup... that was 3 years ago and it's still running well. The one I had beforehand lasted me 3 years and it broke because I forgot to bring it inside the first night temperatures dropped bellow freezing, and something inside broke.

I don't mind paying premiums for good equipment, but in this case, I simply cannot see the benefits.
 
Matt at Obsessed Garage is putting together a list of all the nozzles for all the pressure washers on the market. I am not sure where he will be done with the testings, on his youtube channel is is halfway through, so he probably is further along than that. I am sure he shoot more videos than he publishes each day, so the testing is probably done and we just need for him to post the videos. But SunJoe is one of the companies he has already tested, so if you watch those videos, you will very likelly find an answer to your question. Otherwise, he is supposed to publish the list on his website once all has been completed.

yes he has pretty much all the videos up. very good info on there. probably wouldnt know what to get without his videos.
 
I watched the Kranzle episode with great interest. I was curious to see what the fuss was all about. I can't say I was impressed. Sure they are a little nicer... but not 10 times the price nicer. Also, Mat mentionned you can rebuild them and you can order replacement covers for them. He did not mention any price but I am sure it will cost at least the same price of a new pressure washer (from other brands) to do either. Where I worked before they had a commercial pressure washer and it broke about once a year. Everytime it did, it was in the shop for at least a week and the cost of repair was usually in between 200$ and 400$. For 400$ I have have 2 good quality pressure washers. So that is what I did when I purchased by last one. Waited for a sale, the 200$ models were selling half price for 100$ and I purchased 2. Now if one breaks I have a backup... that was 3 years ago and it's still running well. The one I had beforehand lasted me 3 years and it broke because I forgot to bring it inside the first night temperatures dropped bellow freezing, and something inside broke.

I don't mind paying premiums for good equipment, but in this case, I simply cannot see the benefits.

from what i understand, higher flow or gpm makes better foam. and in his case, he has a pressure washer to foam and to help wash his cars which is why he shoots for 1000 psi. but with lower flow the foam comes out more watery looking and supposedly not as good.
 
yes he has pretty much all the videos up. very good info on there. probably wouldnt know what to get without his videos.

Very comprehensive testing. Very nice to be able to see how each machine works and all. I think the database he is putting together is also very good in terms of knowing what fittings you will need to change the hose, gun and nozzle.
 
from what i understand, higher flow or gpm makes better foam. and in his case, he has a pressure washer to foam and to help wash his cars which is why he shoots for 1000 psi. but with lower flow the foam comes out more watery looking and supposedly not as good.

The common belief is that higher pressure makes better foam. Many guys will tell you that gaz powered pressure washers are the best for foaming cars because of it. You can get 3000 psi or more on gaz units where as max psi on electric units is around 1500 to 2000.

As for flow... that is where I was disapointed most with Kranzle units. They are supposed to have amazing flow, but he was getting like 1.8/1.9 gpm where cheaper units were giving 1.2 to 1.5 gpm. Ok it's more, but not that much more. 0.3 gpm doesn't seems like it would make a noticable difference. I was expecting 2.1 gpm from what I had read before, but even there, would you really be able to see a difference when using it?

In reality, the real difference you will be able to see is getting a better hose and gun. I am happy Mat made all these tests so people can know what to buy. Also he is putting together packages to make it even easier for everyone. That is great, I hope he sells a lot of them to make all this time he invested worth it to him.
 
I would just love a better hose for my AR Blue unit. The plastic hose makes it a nightmare to use. AR has some proprietary couplings to make it even more difficult. Why are plastic hoses a “thing” anyway?
 
IMO it's about how you uses your PW. And just to clarify I had a PW with specs 1.2gpm and I think it was 1600psi. I found that how I use the PW it was to small for me. And that is it can go 3-4 weeks between the washes and in the winter months here in Sweden even longer between them. So I use the water pressure from the PW to clean with. And to get a cleaning ability that was a little effective I could skip going any wider than a 15 angle nozzle tip. That little spread of the water is just to small and took a very long time to clean the car with. The move up to a PW with 2.6gpm and 2600psi got me a better cleaning ability and a wider water pressure from the PW to clean with. Which more than halfed the time it takes me to do the prewash step. So going from 2-3" of water pressure that cleans I now have 5-6" with the new PW. I use this water pressure to clean with on the whole car. I can use a little wider nozzle tip and have the nozzle longer from the paint and at the same time move it faster than before. If you uses your PW to basicly rinse off you are fine with a smaller specs PW to do that. I have also so I can set the pressure on the PW. This is done wireless from the spray gun. So the same flow but 6 settings from 2600psi and down to which I don't have in my head know. But think it's down to the range around 1000psi. So of course I have tried to lower the psi but I feel that the cleaning ability lowers too. I have to move closer to the paint with the nozzle tip. And that makes the width smaller that cleans the and even rinse the paint takes longer with lower pressure. In my situation the 2.0gpm is the lowest flow I would have. For makeing the cleaning ability effective with a PW.

I know that I have a big benefit since the 240v electric outlets is standard here in Sweden. And get you to use a more powerfull electric motor on those voltages. The one in mine is 3000W and is on a 16amp fuse. So there are a big difference because of that. If I would have a detailing shop I would look into a have a higher voltage than 110v. Is it possible to have a 220v-240v in your garage it could be worth it if you use other electric power tools that could be used on those voltage.

If you notice when Matt is testing the foamcannon and measure the psi it's goes up with the smaller 1.1 orifice. That means also that you get the PW electric motor to work harder. And the workload lowers when he put a nozzle tip that leaves a psi of 1000. This is to maximize the gpm from the PW. So with a specs that are high and you use the smaller 1.1 orifice you can put the PW electric motor on a very high workload. I bought some no name nozzle tips that was 2.0 which I didn't know. The results where that the PW started to pulse on and of as the workload was way to high. So it's important to follow the measure recommendations in the nozzle tables and the orifice for the foamcannon. I saw one used the 1.1 orifice on a gas PW. Sure he got great foam. But would be interesting to see how much work he put on the PW pump. Cause you will be damage the PW pump if you use nozzle tip and orifice that makes them to go over their max specs. It's not so sensitive when going the other way around and get it too low. It's just the ability from the PW pump that you are not useing. I feel like many starts to experiment with the nozzle tips and orifices in foamcannons after Matt is doing his testing. And that can lead to they get problems with damaged PW pumps. It's great that he is measuring and fitting the different PW spray guns and nozzles and orifices. That's makes it way easier when the consumer want to switch to another spray gun and all.
 
FYI - MTM has a slew of new kits available now with all kinds of combinations of hose/gun combinations and they all seem come with both the 14 & 15 MM connection options:
MTM New Kits/Products

They also have a nozzle size calculator as well as a chart - that helps to figure out proper nozzle sizing as well:
Nozzle Size Calculator
Nozzle Selection Chart

They have excellent customer service and plenty of PW Knowledge - call them for any questions on parts needed!
 
IMO it's about how you uses your PW. And just to clarify I had a PW with specs 1.2gpm and I think it was 1600psi. I found that how I use the PW it was to small for me. And that is it can go 3-4 weeks between the washes and in the winter months here in Sweden even longer between them. So I use the water pressure from the PW to clean with. And to get a cleaning ability that was a little effective I could skip going any wider than a 15 angle nozzle tip. That little spread of the water is just to small and took a very long time to clean the car with. The move up to a PW with 2.6gpm and 2600psi got me a better cleaning ability and a wider water pressure from the PW to clean with. Which more than halfed the time it takes me to do the prewash step. So going from 2-3" of water pressure that cleans I now have 5-6" with the new PW. I use this water pressure to clean with on the whole car. I can use a little wider nozzle tip and have the nozzle longer from the paint and at the same time move it faster than before. If you uses your PW to basicly rinse off you are fine with a smaller specs PW to do that. I have also so I can set the pressure on the PW. This is done wireless from the spray gun. So the same flow but 6 settings from 2600psi and down to which I don't have in my head know. But think it's down to the range around 1000psi. So of course I have tried to lower the psi but I feel that the cleaning ability lowers too. I have to move closer to the paint with the nozzle tip. And that makes the width smaller that cleans the and even rinse the paint takes longer with lower pressure. In my situation the 2.0gpm is the lowest flow I would have. For makeing the cleaning ability effective with a PW.

I know that I have a big benefit since the 240v electric outlets is standard here in Sweden. And get you to use a more powerfull electric motor on those voltages. The one in mine is 3000W and is on a 16amp fuse. So there are a big difference because of that. If I would have a detailing shop I would look into a have a higher voltage than 110v. Is it possible to have a 220v-240v in your garage it could be worth it if you use other electric power tools that could be used on those voltage.

If you notice when Matt is testing the foamcannon and measure the psi it's goes up with the smaller 1.1 orifice. That means also that you get the PW electric motor to work harder. And the workload lowers when he put a nozzle tip that leaves a psi of 1000. This is to maximize the gpm from the PW. So with a specs that are high and you use the smaller 1.1 orifice you can put the PW electric motor on a very high workload. I bought some no name nozzle tips that was 2.0 which I didn't know. The results where that the PW started to pulse on and of as the workload was way to high. So it's important to follow the measure recommendations in the nozzle tables and the orifice for the foamcannon. I saw one used the 1.1 orifice on a gas PW. Sure he got great foam. But would be interesting to see how much work he put on the PW pump. Cause you will be damage the PW pump if you use nozzle tip and orifice that makes them to go over their max specs. It's not so sensitive when going the other way around and get it too low. It's just the ability from the PW pump that you are not useing. I feel like many starts to experiment with the nozzle tips and orifices in foamcannons after Matt is doing his testing. And that can lead to they get problems with damaged PW pumps. It's great that he is measuring and fitting the different PW spray guns and nozzles and orifices. That's makes it way easier when the consumer want to switch to another spray gun and all.

Very interesting, I had not thought you could damage the pump by changing the nozzle. So I guess the best thing to do is stick with the manufacturer's recommended nozzles then. Do you know if there is an easy way to know what size nozzle comes with the pressure washer? Mine only shows the angle, not the size.
 
Very interesting, I had not thought you could damage the pump by changing the nozzle. So I guess the best thing to do is stick with the manufacturer's recommended nozzles then. Do you know if there is an easy way to know what size nozzle comes with the pressure washer? Mine only shows the angle, not the size.

If you put in the value of the gpm and the workload psi and not the max psi. I think you get the size of the nozzle tip orifice they use on the oem wand. In the link above on MTM there it's Nozzle Size Calculator link. You can go under the recommended psi if you want. But IMO when useing this smaller and would say all the electric PW I would go with the recommended workload psi. As I want the highest possible cleaning ability from the PW. And I have a little problem to agree with Matt on OG with the 1000psi max output from the nozzle tip. I think that pressure is too low to be cleaning with the PW. Put the hand far away from the nozzle tip and move your hand to it. Until it's starting to hurt the hand. And there you have your distance you would be carefull to move any closer to the paint. This is from PW to PW of course. Since you dealing with different effectiveness from them. The only thing that Matt does is you will need to be working closer to the paint. And you loose the water pressure from the PW to be able to clean more effective and wider. Which means it takes longer to clean your vehical with the PW. Why I'm wanting the cleaning ability is to get it as clean as possible before touching the paint when washing. And IME it's a big difference in the cleaning ability with higher water pressure. And easier to be doing it farther away from the vehical. It's almost like working backwards when lowering the psi. One situation is if you don't have enough of space where you work with the PW. There could be a benefit to have a lower psi so you can have it closer to the paint. Otherwise I want the pedal to the bottom LOL.

Does it says the workload psi on the PW you have? And what gpm is it rated on?
 
If you put in the value of the gpm and the workload psi and not the max psi. I think you get the size of the nozzle tip orifice they use on the oem wand. In the link above on MTM there it's Nozzle Size Calculator link. You can go under the recommended psi if you want. But IMO when useing this smaller and would say all the electric PW I would go with the recommended workload psi. As I want the highest possible cleaning ability from the PW. And I have a little problem to agree with Matt on OG with the 1000psi max output from the nozzle tip. I think that pressure is too low to be cleaning with the PW. Put the hand far away from the nozzle tip and move your hand to it. Until it's starting to hurt the hand. And there you have your distance you would be carefull to move any closer to the paint. This is from PW to PW of course. Since you dealing with different effectiveness from them. The only thing that Matt does is you will need to be working closer to the paint. And you loose the water pressure from the PW to be able to clean more effective and wider. Which means it takes longer to clean your vehical with the PW. Why I'm wanting the cleaning ability is to get it as clean as possible before touching the paint when washing. And IME it's a big difference in the cleaning ability with higher water pressure. And easier to be doing it farther away from the vehical. It's almost like working backwards when lowering the psi. One situation is if you don't have enough of space where you work with the PW. There could be a benefit to have a lower psi so you can have it closer to the paint. Otherwise I want the pedal to the bottom LOL.

Does it says the workload psi on the PW you have? And what gpm is it rated on?

I agree with you about the pressure.

My unit has the following specs :

Peak pressure: 1700 PSI
Rated max pressure: 1140 PSI
Max water flow rate: 1.4 US GPM

So according to the calculator, I would need a nozzle size of 2.62

The chart doesn't cover low pressure/low flow machines but if I extrapolate it would be around the 3.0 size. So I guess using a 2.5 or 3.0 would be best.

I just checked my backup pressure washer just to compare... It has better specs, so I guess I will be using it as my main unit from now on and keep the one I was using as my backup ;)

This one's specs are:
Peak pressure: 1800 PSI
Rated max pressure: 1250 PSI
Max water flow rate: 1.4 US GPM

So in this case a 2.5 nozzle is needed according to the calculator.
 
I agree with you about the pressure.

My unit has the following specs :

Peak pressure: 1700 PSI
Rated max pressure: 1140 PSI
Max water flow rate: 1.4 US GPM

So according to the calculator, I would need a nozzle size of 2.62

The chart doesn't cover low pressure/low flow machines but if I extrapolate it would be around the 3.0 size. So I guess using a 2.5 or 3.0 would be best.

I just checked my backup pressure washer just to compare... It has better specs, so I guess I will be using it as my main unit from now on and keep the one I was using as my backup ;)

This one's specs are:
Peak pressure: 1800 PSI
Rated max pressure: 1250 PSI
Max water flow rate: 1.4 US GPM

So in this case a 2.5 nozzle is needed according to the calculator.

I think that both uses the 2.5 nozzle as it's the rated max pressure. I'm not certain of the steps in the nozzle orifices. But if you would use a 2.0 nozzle you get above the peak psi recommended. And that's also why I think it's equiped with a 2.5 nozzle orifice. Would have been great if there where a 2.25 nozzle orifice. That way you would be in the safe side of peak psi. You would have 1550psi from the nozzle. A 2.25 nozzle orifice could be able to find with those that is mounted in the wand and is no quick connect. There is often a wider options than the QC ones. And then chose one with the angle you want. I would test with a 15 or 20 degree if available. If you don't know what I mean I could se if I find one with it on. But look at the original kränzle wand and I think IIRC they have those nozzles. And then have a second wand with QC and 2.5 nozzle orifice tips to if you need a wider or smaller option on the angle on nozzle tip or accessories.

Nice that your backup PW had higher specs if even so little. Then you can get experience if it does anything with the little increase of psi. And this is not only by nozzle tip it can change. It's also depending on the spray gun handle and that specs. But there I'm not so familier with how it changes if you use one that can handle 5000psi or 3000psi for an example. There is also how much flow it can do. When Matt at OG did his testing it would be interesting if there is any change if he had the psi gauge at the wand instead of before the spray gun handle. But it's more important when you go up to the industrial gas PW or those we have on the 440v electric outlets here.

I have access to a wash bay where they clean semi-trucks and tractors and such. It's a hot water PW on 440v that is very powerfull. My stepfather was with me and he was not prepared to the power from it. He standed not so good and didn't hold the PW wand so hard. And when he trigged the PW he was almost falling backwards LOL. When I used it I held the nozzle 4-5 feet away of the car. And the width it was effectively cleaning was almost 2 feet wide. Didn't take long to cleaning the prewash product of my car and his Nissan Navara work truck. The spray on rinse off with Gyeon Wet Coat on his truck was very fast. He sprayed it on and I rinsed it off teamwork style LOL. Around 5 minutes I think it took. Unfortuneally they are selling this wash bay as they have downsized the fleet of semi-trucks. Would be a great building to have a detailing shop made. A garage and office and the wash bay in the building now. So an easy way to set it up. Hehe a little off topic LOL

Would be intresting to hear if you try out different nozzles and how it works.

/ Tony
 
With the 3.0 nozzle orifice you would get just below 900psi. It would be great when used on engine bay cleaning and the undercarriage cleaning. There are a wand where the tip of it has a 90 angle which is awesome to clean the undercarriage with a 40 angle 3.0 nozzle orifice would be great and QC it on the wand so you get the double length of it. And the 3.0 nozzle orifice would suit on the spray gun handle directly when you clean the wheels and wheel wells if you need to be going into it closely. There I can see the use of a lower psi.
 
With the 3.0 nozzle orifice you would get just below 900psi. It would be great when used on engine bay cleaning and the undercarriage cleaning. There are a wand where the tip of it has a 90 angle which is awesome to clean the undercarriage with a 40 angle 3.0 nozzle orifice would be great and QC it on the wand so you get the double length of it. And the 3.0 nozzle orifice would suit on the spray gun handle directly when you clean the wheels and wheel wells if you need to be going into it closely. There I can see the use of a lower psi.

have you tested psi on a 2.5 nozzle? after watching all those videos that matt at og made i assume you want around 1000 psi to wash a car so 900 sounds good.
 
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