The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

margallar said:
the person who I will contact if i need some work to be done by a rotary buffer is fairly experienced, in fact he is the best in our country, here is his website

Chevy Belair 1957 | Car Care And Detailing Dreams


he has had experience with a car ditto same as mine, same condition same problem, he had done quite a good job at it.
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Looks like he does know what he's doing...

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The only thing you have to be careful of no matter who does the work is to avoid removing too much paint from being overly aggressive in choice of,

  • Pad
  • Product
  • Tool
And above all... the person doing the buffing must focus on the task at hand...


margallar said:
but the abrasive he used "farecla G3", that was something i didnt quite like.
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I've used a few Farecla products in my life, don't remember them blowing away M105 for an aggressive compound that finishes out like a polish. But "hey" you use what you have to the best of your ability.


margallar said:
well we are going to have a small detailing gtg this Sunday, my friend has a dslr so i will post good quality pics on sunday,
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I'm going to a GTG next Tuesday... should be fun. :D


margallar said:
but is it okay if i apply wolfgang deep gloss sealant 3.0 over #7 ?

thanks for your time Mike
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Yes but first you want to use something more aggressive than the #7 to remove the white, dead paint. This oxidized paint is dead and you want to carefully remove it to expose a "Fresh Base" and then apply the #7 to the freshly uncovered paint and then seal with the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant.


Looking forward to the before and after pictures, if you don't know how to work with pictures on forums, read my articles on the topic. It's not that hard to teach yourself how to crop out the fluff, resize to 800 pixels wide and then upload them into a gallery and insert them into a thread like I did above and like I'm doing below...

If you're going to be a "Forum Person" on ANY forum, help yourself by learning how to work with picture on the Internet



800 Pixels Wide

TrainingVette063.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
I am used to forums so uploading pictures is not an issue. i will give updates when i can. your advice is very valuable :urtheman:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Good questions... now how about a FULL SIZE picture of your car project?


:)
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Here are a few pictures

I have about 4-5 coats of the Meguairs Show Car Glaze on the hood and roof and the paint is still looking better after each coat. I plan on continuing the project in the spring.

JenifersTransAm001.jpg


JenifersTransAm002.jpg


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Due to my injuries I can only do, at most, one panel a day but some days only half of a panel, then after each application it takes my body an average of 3-5 days(and sometimes more) to recover enough to apply the glaze to a panel again.

My doctor and I are talking about trying a different medication after the holidays to see if something else will work better for me. Last summer I was able to ride my bike 15-20 miles a day, 6 or 7 times a week. This summer I was only anle to get out 3 times for just 3 or 4 miles because the medication we tried this spring did not really work for me, so this project was slow going.
 
jenniferny said:
Here are a few pictures

I have about 4-5 coats of the Meguairs Show Car Glaze on the hood and roof and the paint is still looking better after each coat. I plan on continuing the project in the spring.
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Thank you Jennifer for the follow-up, I really appreciate it when after asking for help the person comes back with the follow-up.

And your Trans Am is looking great! Another paint job saved by #7 and this article, win/win. I wish I could somehow reach out into all the guys in the "old car hobby" that have all these antique cars sitting in their garages just days away from being caveman compounded and ruined.


I wish you continued success with your recovery and health...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I wish I could somehow reach out into all the guys in the "old car hobby" that have all these antique cars sitting in their garages just days away from being caveman compounded and ruined.
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I hear you loud and clear, Mike.

I've promoted the benefits of your SS metallic restoration process to many folks at shows or cruises who are impressed by the 25 year-old lacquer on my El Camino. Most are hunting for that magical "quick fix" product, unwilling to commit to the effort necessary for multiple applications of M07, a product that has a reputation for being difficult to use. I try to explain that proper technique is paramount, but it often falls on deaf ears.

Fortunately, in the years before I discovered your teachings, all my "caveman" rotary work on my Camino was done using M03, so I still had a bit of paint left, albeit thin. I still have one of the original Meg's yellow rotary pads left, the ones that had an integral threaded backing plate molded to the pad.

Bill
 
Mike Phillips said:
Thank you Jennifer for the follow-up, I really appreciate it when after asking for help the person comes back with the follow-up.

And your Trans Am is looking great! Another paint job saved by #7 and this article, win/win.

I wish I could somehow reach out into all the guys in the "old car hobby" that have all these antique cars sitting in their garages just days away from being caveman compounded and ruined.

I wish you continued success with your recovery and health...
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Mike, :)Thank You:), unfortunately I go through this every Fall so I am getting use to it, kinda.


Mike Phillips said:
" I wish I could somehow reach out into all the guys in the "old car hobby" that have all these antique cars sitting in their garages just days away from being caveman compounded and ruined."
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Every chance I get and whenever I hear someone talk about trying to make their paint "look like it use to look" I tell them about AutoGeek, the Auto Geek Forum, and how amazing you are with paint and detailing information and how down to earth every one on the forum is AND HOW GREAT PRODUCTS LIKE PINNACLE, MEGUIARS AND MOST EVERY PRODUCT THAT 'GEEK' SELLS IS!!

I apologize that it took so long to get the pictures posted. You have been so great with all your advice!! For that I say,

:thankyousign: :thankyousign: :thankyousign:

The car will be in the garage (no windows) all winter. Even though I am going to continue working on the paint in the spring with the Show Car Glaze because I am still seeing an improvement with each additional coat, Should I put a quick coat of Carnauba Wax on it for the winter or will it be OK in the garage as is?


It is suppose to get up to 72 on Wednesday with no rain and if you think it would be better I will try to put a coat of the wax on it then. I do not want to use the Pinnacle Souveran on it, its too expensive and no one will see it, but I still have some Griots Garage Best of Show Liquid Carnauba Wax that is pretty easy to apply and remove.

I noticed some rust on the inside bottom of the doors so I hit it with some of Eastwoods Rust Neutralizer to stop it from progressing over the winter, in the spring I am going to sand, prime and paint the areas, it was VERY hard for me to look at the rust without completely panicking!! At least it is an area where I can repair it and the paint touch up will not be that visible.

I have a lot planned for the car next summer, and I have already made my list and already have most of what I need like new carpet and package tray.

It has been a real joy to drive it again, it has sat in a barn and then in my garage since about 1988 or 1989 with about a 2 year hiatus at the shop that rebuilt the engine and transmission. I had forgotten how much fun I had driving it and why I bought it and was willing to wait 5 months for it to be built and delivered to the dealer.

It was my first new car, so those were the 5 longest months of my life!! I never made it to any Car Shows this year because it was not up to par and ready to be shown this year.

So, what do you think, should I try to put a coat of wax on it, or will it be OK as is??

Thanks Again,

Jennifer
 
jenniferny said:
Every chance I get and whenever I hear someone talk about trying to make their paint "look like it use to look" I tell them about Autogeek, the Auto Geek Forum, and how amazing you are with paint and detailing information and how down to earth every one on the forum is AND HOW GREAT PRODUCTS LIKE PINNACLE, MEGUIARS AND MOST EVERY PRODUCT THAT 'GEEK' SELLS IS!!
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Thank you for sharing Autogeek.net and AutogeekOnline.net with your friends, this is truly doing win/win business and we do appreciate it.



jenniferny said:
It has been a real joy to drive it again, it has sat in a barn and then in my garage since about 1988 or 1989 with about a 2 year hiatus at the shop that rebuilt the engine and transmission. I had forgotten how much fun I had driving it and why I bought it and was willing to wait 5 months for it to be built and delivered to the dealer.
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Sat in a barn and then a garage for about 14 years! Ding dang that's a long time to be without your pride and joy...



jenniferny said:
It was my first new car,
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And that's why when I wrote this article I specifically worded it the way I did and that includes this part, which is about the third paragraph down in the article...

Mike Phillips said:
What to do

If preserving the original paint is important to you then the first thing you want to do is condition the paint before working on it. Most people just jump right in and start rubbing some type of abrasive compound over old, dry, fragile paint and this will remove a lot of paint quickly and possible remove too much. Instead, take the extra step of conditioning the paint and bring it back to life with product that's been around since cars and thus car paints have been around.
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For a lot of people, their first new car, or even their first car even if it was used, is very important to them, they don't want to make a mistake with it.

So I applaud you for keeping your first car for so long and it's a genuine pleasure to know that my article is helping you to preserve the original paint.



jenniferny said:
So, what do you think, should I try to put a coat of wax on it, or will it be OK as is??

Thanks Again,

Jennifer
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If it were mine, I would apply a thin coat of wax to the paint to help protect it until you can get back to this project again. Single stage paints tend to be porous and this is a good thing because it means you can put oil back into them. It's also a bad thing because it means these life giving oils can come back out of them.

By applying a thin coat of wax you will seal the surface, (to some level), and this will help to lock in the polishing oils you've already pushed back into the paint and lock or seal everything else out including both oxygen and water/moisture.


:)
 
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Sorry I didn't take any befores of the car, but this is probably the best I've seen this jeep look in it's life. It took me 4 applications of m07 and 3 bottles of it. Lots of dead paint. But it was definitely worth it!
 
I just read this article for the 11th time. I never get tired of it. I learn some new tidbit of information from it each time that I read it that I had previously missed.

This article is in my top 3 of my favorites by Mr. Phillips...and it may just be my number 1 article.

This article is an oxidized, dried out, tired ol' single stage paint KILLER!!!!:dblthumb2:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
And for everyone that will read this into the future, before you "touch" the paint of something cool in bad shape, read this article...


The power in the after shots is created in the before shots




:)
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Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Widow Hot Sauce - It will kill you...

WidowHotSauce.jpg




My fiancé Stacy makes a really hot Habanero Hot Sauce too...

StacysHotSauce05.jpg



I'm not as good at graphics as Yancy...


:D
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I think if Scoville was still alive he would be quite proud of you.Jonny Carson once said "I`ve been married so long I`m on my second bottle of Tabasco sauce".I guess thats not the case with you and Stacy.Im the MAN
 
Mike,

WOW!!!! This is one serious process in restoring this paint! i am so glad to have had richy point me in this direction! This thread was very insightful and full of learning. i skipped through the last few pages and i am not sure what is going on with al of the Hot Sauce talk, but defiantly sent me for a loop!

Thanks again Mike for all of your hard work and enthusiasm in perfecting the art of detailing!

Chris
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Thank you for sharing Autogeek.net and AutogeekOnline.net with your friends, this is truly doing win/win business and we do appreciate it.


Sat in a barn and then a garage for about 14 years! Ding dang that's a long time to be without your pride and joy...



And that's why when I wrote this article I specifically worded it the way I did and that includes this part, which is about the third paragraph down in the article...



For a lot of people, their first new car, or even their first car even if it was used, is very important to them, they don't want to make a mistake with it.

So I applaud you for keeping your first car for so long and it's a genuine pleasure to know that my article is helping you to preserve the original paint.

If it were mine, I would apply a thin coat of wax to the paint to help protect it until you can get back to this project again. Single stage paints tend to be porous and this is a good thing because it means you can put oil back into them. It's also a bad thing because it means these life giving oils can come back out of them.

By applying a thin coat of wax you will seal the surface, (to some level), and this will help to lock in the polishing oils you've already pushed back into the paint and lock or seal everything else out including both oxygen and water/moisture.
:)
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By applying a thin coat of wax you will seal the surface, (to some level), and this will help to lock in the polishing oils you've already pushed back into the paint and lock or seal everything else out including both oxygen and water/moisture.

Mike, Thank You!! It never dawned on me that the wax would help seal the oils in the paint, but after you mentioned it, it seemed so obvious.

"Sat in a barn and then a garage for about 14 years! Ding dang that's a long time to be without your pride and joy..."

The first few years it sat because I took a new job as a Division Manager with a distribution company to launch a new division. It was 12-16 hours a day sometimes 7 days a week setting up everything and getting it up and running, then a number of years to get things running smoothly. That left little time for anything but sleep for a number of years. Then we had grown so fast I was told to put together a proposal for the design and layout of a new warehouse that would allow for future predicted growth, equipment I would need(everything from shipping tables to fork lifts to delivery vehicles), staffing requirements, and computer programming modifications to solve some of the issues we had been having with the current software, the inventory to fill the new warehouse and the logistics for moving to the new facility. Then, just as things started to level off and run smoothly and I was able to take my first vacation since I had been there, I was in a bad car accident that forced my retirement at 40. I had been out of work a few months and even though my Dr. was against it, I talked him into letting me go back part time on a trial basis for two weeks, I really missed the challenges and the pressure. When I saw my Dr again after the two weeks I had to admit to him that he was right. I loved my job and the company where I worked, it took a number of years just for me to be able to accept that I would most likely never be able to work again, for me this was a very big adjustment that took a long time. Before I knew it all those years were gone, but at least I never sold the car.

Mike, Thank You again for all the help that you offer, and for the most valuable thing- your knowledge and
 
my m7 and m80 have just arrived, ill be doing multiple applications of m7 as told in ur article. but i dont now how to use m80, i have never used an abrasive product before but tried m80 with dodo juice finger mitt on a clear coated car and managed to remove swirls with moderate pressure. how would you suggest using it with a foam pad. rotary can be summoned but it is dangerous so my first preference is to work by hand. i have meguiars pads and a dodo finger mitt

p.s pics coming up . honest this time :P
 
margallar said:
my m7 and m80 have just arrived, ill be doing multiple applications of m7 as told in ur article. but i dont now how to use m80,
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What are you working on?

Sometimes it helps to share what the project is, you would be surprised at how often people start a thread and talk about all kinds of things and then never mention what it is they're working on?

:laughing:

Also, if this is an upcoming project, I would recommend starting a "dedicated thread" for it versus tagging onto this one...



margallar said:
i have never used an abrasive product before but tried m80 with dodo juice finger mitt on a clear coated car and managed to remove swirls with moderate pressure.
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That's the only way to work on most clear coats by hand and that's with moderate pressure, has to do with th hardnes... see this article,

Put a little passion behind the pad - Mike Phillips


margallar said:
how would you suggest using it with a foam pad. rotary can be summoned but it is dangerous so my first preference is to work by hand. i have meguiars pads and a dodo finger mitt

p.s pics coming up . honest this time :P
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Apply the #7 by hand if you're working on antique or original paint. When it comes time to use the M80 with a rotary buffer and a foam pad I would recommend doing a follow-up with a DA Polisher to ensure no holograms. Free advice.

Do please start a dedicated thread though, it will be better for providing help along the way...


:xyxthumbs:
 
Like I said before amazing information just finished some of my homework. Thank you Mike you are truly amazing to the art of detailing, and thank you for sharing this link in my post. I have passion for this art can't wait to apply what i have learned today.:dblthumb2:
 
Bamafire said:
Like I said before amazing information just finished some of my homework. Thank you Mike you are truly amazing to the art of detailing, and thank you for sharing this link in my post. I have passion for this art can't wait to apply what i have learned today.:dblthumb2:
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Thank you for the kind words.

Some of the topics I write about are tips and techniques I've developed myself while other tips and techniques are simply information I've learned from those that have gone before me and I'm just passing it on...

I do my best to give due credit where credit is due as I think that it's the right thing to do to quote Bill Clinton...


:)
 
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