The RUPES LHR21ES Random Orbit Polisher and Polishing System by Mike Phillips
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Mike Phillips
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Here's some dedicated pictures of the blue foam cutting pad to try to give you and idea of what they look like and then take my word for it, when you feel them they are very coarse or aggressive feeling.
I was very surprised at how well they worked with the Rupes compound to remove defects quickly while still finishing out very nice.
:xyxthumbs:
I was very surprised at how well they worked with the Rupes compound to remove defects quickly while still finishing out very nice.
:xyxthumbs:
WRAPT C5Z06
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Tuan, who is a friend of mine, showed me a used blue Rupes pad. It was noticeably disintegrated. It felt very uneven. Not sure about the durability of this pad .Here's some dedicated pictures of the blue foam cutting pad to try to give you and idea of what they look like and then take my word for it, when you feel them they are very coarse or aggressive feeling.
I was very surprised at how well they worked with the Rupes compound to remove defects quickly while still finishing out very nice.
:xyxthumbs:
FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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Thanks Mike for the pictures of this RUPES buffing-pad...
They really show the open cell structure.
-Do any of the RUPES buffing pads have a beveled edge?
Also:
-I'm finding that I really appreciate pads with center-holes:
Allows me more accurate pad-placement on backing plates.
Regards,
Blind as a Bat Bob
Setec Astronomy
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The distinction between PSI and PSIG is really more of a scientific one rather than anything to do with pressure drop and consumption as you describe above. Since the nominal atmospheric pressure at sea level is 14.7 psi, even when your pressure gage reads zero it's really wrong. When you talk about pressure in this way, you're talking about absolute pressure, and then you would use the acronym PSIA, or pounds per square inch-absolute, vs. pounds per square inch-gage. PSIG is simply PSIA minus 14.7.
You don't really get into whether it's PSIG or PSIA unless you are working with sub-atmospheric pressures, that you would only encounter at altitude or when working with vacuum systems. For instance, if you were flying in an airplane at 35,000 feet, you would describe the pressure outside as 3.46 psia, not -11.24 psig.
Sorry if I sidetracked this, so back to the topic, if your compressed air piping/hosing isn't capable of delivering the volume your air tool needs, you will experience a high pressure drop between the tank and tool. If your compressor can't keep up with the demand, you will experience that drop in your receiver (air tank) as well, but these pressure drops would be the same no matter if you describe your pressure in PSIA or PSIG.
Mike Phillips
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Mike Phillips
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Always seems like the "online detailing crowd" is on the AR side so when I wrote my article on dampsanding when Meguiar's launched their Unigrit discs I included the above for that article. I figure the same type of people will be reading this type of thread too...
But I think you pointed out the issue and that is not all shops have great piping/hosing etc. from the air compressor to the point where the tool will be used.
Also, in a large and busy shop you can have multiple people using air in all kind of ways putting a draw on the supply and feed.
Make sense?
Setec Astronomy
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An online personality that I respect once said "words mean things" so since I am very familiar with these terms I thought I would clarify the meaning. It wasn't my intent to nitpick; I'm sorry if it came across that way
WRAPT C5Z06
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Not sure what difference that makes? This guy is a seasoned detailer. He used it a few times and it looked pretty beat up. I had the pad in my hand.
Mike Phillips
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Just thought you had real-world, first hand experience yourself from the way you wrote your first comment about the Rupes pad in post #25 of this thread.
This comment...
It's just your comment reads like a statement based upon first hand experience?
Then later you chime in and let us know you haven't used it, just seen a pad someone else has used?
One thing for sure, most manufacturers like honest feedback about their products, especially from professionals in this industry with first-hand, real world experience.
So if there are areas for improvements with any product from any company, then I would suggest trying to find a way to provide the feedback in a professional manner which usually includes both positive and negative feedback and consider sending it to them in an e-mail as a professional courtesy. By handling your feedback like this you'll earn a good name with the company and their respect.
You could also start your own thread under your forum nickname if you're really passionate about sharing your opinion in a public manner.
Just some suggestions Mark...
:xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
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:laughing:
I hear you Mike...
Words do mean things and you've probably seen me deal with this topic as much and even more than anyone over the years, not because I want to but because I've had to. And I don't mind because it's sharpened my thinking and writing skills.
My "forum style" of writing besides presenting "how-to" information also includes what I call defensive writing and what I mean by that is if I post something to a public forum, I've already look at it inside and out and made sure I can defend it from attack because there's always that handful of people with an agenda.
It wasn't my intent to nitpick; I'm sorry if it came across that way
Didn't come across that way to me and in fact it's great to have people on the forum like yourself with their own areas of expertise to chime in and maintain accuracy.
Thank you...
Big picture from this segment of discussion in this thread is to make sure you have the proper air power for air powered tool.
Now... back on topic...
:dblthumb2:
WRAPT C5Z06
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I still stand by what I said. I think it will prove true in the future from other users, but, I also understand where you're coming from as well. :dblthumb2:
Mike Phillips
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Well please do consider starting your own thread when you want to publicly provide a company with your opinions and feedback. Especially when you're so passionate about it.
I sent all my contacts at Rupes the link to this thread. So they will see all the comments and feedback and get to know everyone from their forum names and what they have to say.
Now can we put this thread back on topic as this thread is about the polishers and the system, not just a single component of the system.
Thank you ahead of time...
:xyxthumbs:
Xplosive Detail
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Hi Mike. So i skimmed through the thread quite thoroughy, i have been searching for some time now basically since the rupes came out. I cannot find the info im looking for on any forum or through any youtube videos. if you can send me a link or discuss openly would be great. cant beleive i have not seen it mentioned anywhere yet.
Question
First hand experience, understanding that every paint every car is different. What speeds are professionals using this machine at.
ex.
Blue pad with zephir or with quarz
Green pad with zephir or with quarz
Yellow pad with quarz or keramik
White pad with keramik or diamond
There has always been good discussion about proper finishing with d/a on high or low speed.
Now to give my first hand experience, i've worked on quite a few cars with the rupes so far. All with the lhr15 and i generally use these speeds.
Note. I dont have enough time in with the blue pad yet to really give accurate info but i am usually reluctant to use it and it is nasty aggressive. I find the green pad with zephir is usually as far as i make it down the aggressive scale before i'm happy with testing. I've merely used the blue pad with zephir just for the sake of trying the combo, and boy did it cut real good and real fast.
Speed settings i've had great results with.
Blue Pad with Zephir on 5/6
Green Pad with Zephir on 4.5/6
Green Pad Quarz on 5/6
Yellow Pad with Quarz on 4 to 4.5/6
Yellow pad with Keramik on 4.5 to 5/6
White pad with keramik, all over the chart form 3 to 5/6
White pad with diamond, again all over from 3 to 5/6
Thanks in advance
Jonathan
Question
First hand experience, understanding that every paint every car is different. What speeds are professionals using this machine at.
ex.
Blue pad with zephir or with quarz
Green pad with zephir or with quarz
Yellow pad with quarz or keramik
White pad with keramik or diamond
There has always been good discussion about proper finishing with d/a on high or low speed.
Now to give my first hand experience, i've worked on quite a few cars with the rupes so far. All with the lhr15 and i generally use these speeds.
Note. I dont have enough time in with the blue pad yet to really give accurate info but i am usually reluctant to use it and it is nasty aggressive. I find the green pad with zephir is usually as far as i make it down the aggressive scale before i'm happy with testing. I've merely used the blue pad with zephir just for the sake of trying the combo, and boy did it cut real good and real fast.
Speed settings i've had great results with.
Blue Pad with Zephir on 5/6
Green Pad with Zephir on 4.5/6
Green Pad Quarz on 5/6
Yellow Pad with Quarz on 4 to 4.5/6
Yellow pad with Keramik on 4.5 to 5/6
White pad with keramik, all over the chart form 3 to 5/6
White pad with diamond, again all over from 3 to 5/6
Thanks in advance
Jonathan
Mike Phillips
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Hi Eric,
Great question! And your first post!
I've never been on record stating there is such a thing as a single best tool. Not once.
Here's a question for you....
What kind of detailing work do you do right now?
A. Production Detailing - One and two-step procedures for a lower price point on primarily daily drivers.
B. Show Car Detailing - Multiple Step Procedures for a higher charge to the customer with primarily special interest cars.
Or, if you don't currently detail cars but are getting into this craft, what's your background experience and what type of market do you want to go after?
:xyxthumbs:
Mike Phillips
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I'd say I'm on the same page with you as to your speed settings except with the white pads and I'm still on the 5-6 speed settings. I find I really need to be at the higher speed settings to maintain good pad rotation especially if you are buffing any type of curved panels. If you're not trying to refine the paint after a previous step then you can bump down to slower speeds but this would also be akin to machine applying a finishing wax.
Since the Rupes polishers are not direct drive it is possible for the pad to slow rotation down when buffing on edges or curved panels, I pointed this out after the first car I buffed out with this tool, a 1955 Ford Crown Victoria. I also stated that it was key to focus on the task at hand and monitor pad rotation and adjust how you hold the body of the tool to keep the pad as flat as possible to the surface when buffing.
This is page 4 of my Crown Victoria write up...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...s-side-side-detail-1955-crown-victoria-4.html
See my comments throughout the posts on the above page.
Eric M.
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Thanks for the quick reply. Wow!
I'd say its 80% daily drivers and 20% show cars. I've recently teamed up with a local automotive restorer so I expect the ratios to change slightly. I have a few years experience all on the PC and I'd like to think I have good technique. (Will post an intro with pics of my work). Hope that's enough info. Based on that criteria what would you purchase?
Thanks
Eric
aircrewjake
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Mike,
I am currently using a wet-sand then compound with a Flex rotary. 2-3 stage. Then da polish then seal or wax . Obviously this is the most aggressive possible, so can the rupes follow wet sanding? Also can it really replace the cutting power of a rotary? and lastly have you tested other compound lines with this tool? Meg., Menzerna.
Thanks your the time you put into your write ups it is truly helpful. :dblthumb2:
I am currently using a wet-sand then compound with a Flex rotary. 2-3 stage. Then da polish then seal or wax . Obviously this is the most aggressive possible, so can the rupes follow wet sanding? Also can it really replace the cutting power of a rotary? and lastly have you tested other compound lines with this tool? Meg., Menzerna.
Thanks your the time you put into your write ups it is truly helpful. :dblthumb2: