Lake Country Hydro Pads

loudog2 said:
:iagree: I do have to agree. There has been a lot more topics and questions in this thread other than issues. You might want to start a Hydro issues/resolution thread.
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:iagree:

O.C.Detailing said:
lol David, you're being extremely rude ... just to clarify before you post something else insulting and demeaning, ...
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I don't think anybody was trying to be rude to you but I do think we all have as much a right to post on this thread as you do.
 
I never said he or anyone else didn't have a right to post here. He posted about a pad that wasn't a HT pad in this thread. I asked that he start his own thread about that particular pad to keep this one on topic, and him accusing us of having bad practices when it's been clearly stated we are doing nothing different to these pads than the CCS pads we used is offensive and uncalled for. We take pride in ourselves, abilities and the fact that we actually DO take care of our equipment and products.
 
The Pad Man said:
OK. Let me ask this, would there be a demand for the Hydro Pads in 7/8". With or without loop to the edge? I have no problem doing that at all. I also have a detailing company outside of Lake Country so I can understand what everyone likes, prefers. If per say Autogeek wants a thinner Hydro pad, then that is the first thing I will be workingon on Mon when I get back in the office. Making something is not a problemm having someone carry the item is the obstacle. I hope this makes sense.
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PM'ed you. :xyxthumbs:
 
So did anyone notice if their pads were damp? Did anyone use the universal pad wash system bucket to clean on the fly? That could cause the velcro isse, but what about the foam splitting? I can see maybe with the flex BP and the inch overhang, but it happened to the Grits 6 inch BP too.
 
loudog2 said:
I can see maybe with the flex BP and the inch overhang, but it happened to the Griots 6 inch BP too.
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That's a very good point I didn't think of!

I wonder if the 5.5" HT's would work on the Flex?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
That's a very good point I didn't think of!

I wonder if the 5.5" HT's would work on the Flex?
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They do, but you have no room for error. If you bump the mirror or trunk, the BP will scratch the paint. You don't have the half or full inch cushion.
 
loudog2 said:
They do, but you have no room for error. If you bump the mirror or trunk, the BP will scratch the paint. You don't have the half or full inch cushion.
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On top of that, do you think the 5.5" pads would have a less chance to fail? Or, is the design flawed regardless?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
On top of that, do you think the 5.5" pads would have a less chance to fail? Or, is the design flawed regardless?
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I think it would have less of a chance. With a pad the same size as the BP, the BP is turning the whole pad. With the Inch overhang, the bp is twisting the middle.

An example would be to take a sheet of paper. Hold the edges down and try to spin it with 2 or 3 fingers. Then try it with you whole hand. It is less likely to rip using your whole hand.
 
loudog2 said:
I think it would have less of a chance. With a pad the same size as the BP, the BP is turning the whole pad. With the Inch overhang, the bp is twisting the middle.

An example would be to take a sheet of paper. Hold the edges down and try to spin it with 2 or 3 fingers. Then try it with you whole hand. It is less likely to rip using your whole hand.
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:dblthumb2:

I think I'm gonna go with the 5.5" HT's and be very careful.
 
This a great thread for sure and the Hydro pads do work great. It does seem that some are using way too much pressure and causing themselves misery. Also sometimes it does take more than two days to dry these pads, I would suggest setting your wet pads on sweater dryer so the air can circulate through the pad itself.
 
We don't put much pressure on our pads, but the cutting/tearing problem is worse with the Griot's than with the Flex because the edge of the backing plate is closer to the unprotected edge of the pad. With very little pressure, the foam actually bends over the edge of the backing plate causing it to eat or cut into into the pad.

We have to put SOME pressure on the pads, and let's be honest, waiting 2 or more days for a pad to completely dry out before you can use it again it COMPLETELY unreasonable. I don't have the money to buy a sweater dryer or anything like that to make them dry faster. That still doesn't explain why the CCS pads don't have these same issues.
 
Grit guards also work well for allowing air to circulate and moisture to be wicked away from the adhesive/backing area.

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O.C.Detailing said:
We don't put much pressure on our pads, but the cutting/tearing problem is worse with the Griot's than with the Flex because the edge of the backing plate is closer to the unprotected edge of the pad.
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If I'm understand this statement correctly, if I used 5.5" hydro's pads on the Flex 5.5" BP, it might be even worse of a problem than with your Griot's, correct?
 
O.C.Detailing said:
We don't put much pressure on our pads, but the cutting/tearing problem is worse with the Griot's than with the Flex because the edge of the backing plate is closer to the unprotected edge of the pad. With very little pressure, the foam actually bends over the edge of the backing plate causing it to eat or cut into into the pad.

We have to put SOME pressure on the pads, and let's be honest, waiting 2 or more days for a pad to completely dry out before you can use it again it COMPLETELY unreasonable. I don't have the money to buy a sweater dryer or anything like that to make them dry faster. That still doesn't explain why the CCS pads don't have these same issues.
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A sweater dryer is very cheap, go to Bed, Bath, and beyond. Since the pad is dense they take alot longer to dry. The ccs pad isn't as dense and gives more so that is why they are lasting longer. Once again, and don't take this wrong, I believe it is technique that is causing your misery. I bet if you went and used a rotary all the time you wouldn't have this misery either.:dblthumb2:
 
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trichard said:
Grit guards also work well for allowing air to circulate and moisture to be wicked away from the adhesive/backing area.

IMG_02752.JPG
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That's a GREAT idea!! I didn't even think of that. I usually lay them face down on a clean cobra microfiber after spinning them on the rotary for about 30 seconds or so.

07 z-oh-6 said:
If I'm understand this statement correctly, if I used 5.5" hydro's pads on the Flex 5.5" BP, it might be even worse of a problem than with your Griot's, correct?
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John had issues with his Flex more along the lines of the pads tearing and we've only used the 6.5" pads, not the 5.5". Let us know if you like them better or have any issues. I've used a 4" and a 6" backing plate on my Griot's with no effect for the better on the pads. I'm not sure if the problem would be worse with a smaller pad, but I'd be afraid the edge of the pad would tear.

ASPHALT ROCKET said:
A sweater dryer is very cheap, go to Bed, Bath, and beyond. Since the pad is dense they take alot longer to dry. The ccs pad is as dense and gives more so that is why they are lasting longer. Once again, and don't take this wrong, I believe it is technique that is causing your misery. I bet if you went and used a rotary all the time you wouldn't have this misery either.:dblthumb2:
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Our technique is exactly the same and technique wouldn't cause a brand new pad to have it's backing separate after just 2 uses. Both tangerine and cyan pads do the same thing with the same results. The tearing and cutting happen if the pad backing doesn't separate. I agree with the rotary statement though. Maybe this year I'll switch over to rotary to make jobs faster. ;)
 
It's not technique.

I only have a couple hydro tech's, but both failed.

With this one, the velcro didn't fail, the foam failed.


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You don't want to lay the pads face down on a towel because the water really has no where to go, plus air can not circulate through the pad and thoroughly dry them. Tad has a great idea with the Grit guards. I would take a picture of the sweater dryer I use but I am at my parents house shoveling all this wonderful snow we just got.
 
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Do away with the "raised" portion on the back of the pad, and make the velcro loop go all the way to the edge. I would think this would be a solution? Basically, the same backside format of a CCS pad.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Do away with the "raised" portion on the back of the pad, and make the velcro loop go all the way to the edge. I would think this would be a solution? Basically, the same backside format of a CCS pad.
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Matt was asking that to Eric in a previous post, It's seams to be that the solution...Eric?
 
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