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Megs Ultimate Protectant is good on trim..i like it..plus its pretty thick kinda like lotion so its easy to apply.
I agree with being careful on those scratches....you may be able to get them BETTER but i dont know if you can totally remove them...they look pretty deep.
Headlights between 1000-1500 id say...cause they dont look to be in too bad of shape...compound n polish...i seal mine when im done with a 50/50 mix of spar urethane/mineral spirits. Makes the clarity last a lottt longer. Looks like you've got some work cut out for you. Mind me askin what you're chargin the guy for all this work? Only thing it doesnt look like you're doing is the engine lol.
this is my girlfriends car that is a scratch magnet lol, its a 03 gmc envoy that needs some TLCits going to be a long process i know. I will be using a rotary with menzerna super intensive po83, super finish po106fa, and final polish po85rd. i also have mg 105. i have purple foam wool pads, LC ccs orange,green,white,gray,red,and blue. As for sealants i will be using WGDG 3.0 and as a wax i will be using WG FUZION. im thinking about getting some 2500 grit and 3000 grit wet sanding papers for some spots. any suggestions
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On the trim, UTTG or PB WTR. Same for Mirror.
Rims - I think Optimum Metal Polish would look great. It doesn't look like they are clear coated, but check first.
On the scratches, if you can catch a nail on them, they may need wet sanding - be careful though and judge your customer. On factory paint it can be pretty dangerous to try and get out deep scratches, there have been a few instances recently of clear burned or removed that come to mind.
The headlights do not look like they are in that bad of shape. I would start with 1000 and if that does not work, bump down to 800.
On the trim, UTTG or PB WTR. Same for Mirror.
Rims - I think Optimum Metal Polish would look great. It doesn't look like they are clear coated, but check first.
On the scratches, if you can catch a nail on them, they may need wet sanding - be careful though and judge your customer. On factory paint it can be pretty dangerous to try and get out deep scratches, there have been a few instances recently of clear burned or removed that come to mind.
The headlights do not look like they are in that bad of shape. I would start with 1000 and if that does not work, bump down to 800.
thanks for the help. How can you tell when the wheels are clear coated? what is a PTG?? and for trim restoration opt protectant plus wouldnt work shiny?
soapyeah its going to be alot of work, im doing this for free for my girlfriend that i been with for almost 4 years and is about to give birth to my child. I will be doing interior work to but that iwll be easy leather isnt in great condition and its dry but i used the optimum protectant plus last night on a job i had and i loved it! i will post some pictures on another thread of my weekend jobs i just did. I have a cl 500 coming in for a paint correction as well i will get photos of it and post it.
What do i use as lubricant for the wet sanding?
better use a blockso i should be safe with a 2000 grit ? pressure wise, how hard do you sand down?
so i should be safe with a 2000 grit ? pressure wise, how hard do you sand down?
Yeah as long as you stop and check your progress every 2-3 swipes over an area, I think you're taking a fairly low level of risk. Don't use much pressure at all, just let the paper and sanding block glide across the surface.
You should look up Mike Phillips' articles on sanding before you get started, he goes through the technique in great detail.