what is the best finishing polish "hands down" in your opinion???

WillSports3 said:
I actually use Essence with an orange pad to correct on softer paints. If I'm coating, I'll go over the paint again with a white pad but still Essence but mixed half half with distilled water. I also find m205 with a bit of distilled water mixed in works as well. I also like to prime my pads by dunking them in onr and squeezing it out until it's slightly damp. I'm gonna wipe down with eraser no matter what I'm putting on top but I find the onr just makes the process a lot easier, far less marring on the crazy soft paints.
Click to expand...

Very interesting. I'm going to give this a try as both of our cars are Japanese and the paint is extremely soft.
 
UTdetailing said:
I've met a lot of people that like 3M. I may have to give it a try one day. Do you use with DA or Rotary?
Click to expand...

I use 3M Perfect-It 3000 Ultrafine as my go to jeweling polish. I know it is supposed to be for rotary machines, however, I talked to the 3M Rep and he said that the Flex 3401 (which I use) should be fine. Ever since then, I love the product. IMO it is the best or at least one of the best polish around. BTW, I use speed setting 5 with my Flex. The 3M rep suggested that is what should be used. So far so good!

So FUNX650 is right about the rotary, however, I have been very successful with the 3M Perfect It Ultrafine based on the 3M Reps advice. NO OFFENSE to you Bob!!!.....LOL

FYI
 
Kamakaz1961 said:
I use 3M Perfect-It 3000 Ultrafine as my go to jeweling polish. I know it is supposed to be for rotary machines, however, I talked to the 3M Rep and he said that the Flex 3401 (which I use) should be fine. Ever since then, I love the product. IMO it is the best or at least one of the best polish around. BTW, I use speed setting 5 with my Flex. The 3M rep suggested that is what should be used. So far so good!

So FUNX650 is right about the rotary, however, I have been very successful with the 3M Perfect It Ultrafine based on the 3M Reps advice. NO OFFENSE to you Bob!!!.....LOL

FYI
Click to expand...
Which pad? Or is is paint dependent? Just wondering if you generally us a pad with some cut or a finishing pad.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Is Essence a glaze?


Sent from my iPhone using Autogeekonline mobile app
Click to expand...


Zubair said:
Essence is:

An AIO
An LSP
A Glaze
A Primer to a coating
A Finishing Polish
Click to expand...
Perhaps some confusion because there are two Essence products: Essence Extreme Gloss Primer and Essence Plus.

Essence Extreme seems to be marketed as a pre-coating prep polish. Essence Plus is a non-abrasive swirl remover for coatings. This sounds like a glaze for coatings to my inexperienced brain.

Question I hope is not too off-topic: for those using Essence Extreme, are you coating right over it or are you using Eraser (or something else) first? The CarPro page seems ambiguous on this. They don't recommend it but say that haven't seen any issues with coating directly over Essence Extreme.
 
No need for IPA or Eraser, Essence is the primer and foundation of the coating. Essence as mentioned above by me has various other functions, it should be in every detailers arsenal-very versatile.
 
Never tried Essence, but I like the idea, as it has durable fillers which will mask very faint haze which otherwise may be difficult to remove on some paints. I use HD SPEED to finish as well for this reason. Same idea, but the fillers are way less durable.
 
Essence because it has some correction and some filling will smooth out the paint but also fill in a lot that it can't level but it lasts you quite a long time. If you use essence as a primer for a coating, the fillers will last the life of the coating as it's "covered".

Essence plus is interesting.. I actually just use it the way most people use a topper wax. It adds crazy hydrophobics, and a simple hand application will add an extra layer of shine to a coated car.
 
RippyD said:
Which pad? Or is is paint dependent? Just wondering if you generally us a pad with some cut or a finishing pad.
Click to expand...

I will use a Lake Country Gold Hybrid Pad or equivalent. IMO a Black or Red Pad should be fine too. I do not use any dedicated polishing pads like a LC white pad. There is no cut with the 3M Perfect - it 3000
 
I have to say there is no one set combo I do. It depends on the car itself. I only do the distilled water mix if it's a super soft paint other is I'll use a white or blue pad and work essence or m205 down on the paint until I get the results I'm looking for. If I have to with 205, I'll give a quick spritz of onr or distilled water and keep working it. That being said on a super soft Honda I've done black pad and one quarter 205 and three quarter onr to prevent marring.
 
IMO, all the Wolfgang goodies are a very good place to start. Buy, and have them all, Uber, TSR, Finishing Glaze for normal tasks at hand.
 
FUNX650 said:
•Riddle me this:
-How is it possible to perform the
"finishing polish"-step with a product,
such as Meguiar's M07, that contains
absolutely no abrasives?


Bob
Click to expand...

It's a pure polish, it's intended to bring the gloss to another level.
No it doesn't have any cut to it but I have other polishes when I need some kind of correction.
If you never tried #7 you may want to give it a shot.



Sent from my iPad using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
HateSwirls said:
It's a pure polish, it's intended to bring the gloss to another level.
No it doesn't have any cut to it but I have other polishes when I need some kind of correction.
If you never tried #7 you may want to give it a shot.
Click to expand...
This thread is about finishing polishes...
not glazes/"pure polishes".

BTW:
-I've been using, and recommending,
Meguiar's M07 for quite a few decades.
(In fact: closer to half a century, or so.)
-As such: I do know its intended purposes.



Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
This thread is about finishing polishes...
not glazes/"pure polishes".

BTW:
-I've been using, and recommending,
Meguiar's M07 for quite a few decades.
(In fact: closer to half a century, or so.)
-As such: I do know its intended purposes.



Bob
Click to expand...
:xyxthumbs:
 
Bob,
Does 3M still make "Ultrafina"? I read a long time ago that Todd Helm liked that polish too, but seems like I recall there is a newer version..."Ultrafine"... and that Todd preferred the older version? IDK, just asking if any of what I read is true, and if the products are still considered to be as good or even if there's a difference. I've never used either. All I have on hand is Perfect-It Compound and the newer EX compound. I need to get the polish and ultra fine polish yet, but they're expensive. Loved the compound though.

Believe it or not I still use 3M SD from time to time. Especially if wool and a rotary are called for and my normal modern compounds aren't cutting the mustard, so-to-speak. I love SD's long working time and I've used it with foam too and not found it to be as harsh as some might claim. I realize that statement goes against the modern grain though. Oh well...
 
That is really interesting that you like 3m SD after all the hate that compound gets. I personally love and used Scholl Concepts matting compound pretty often especially on resprayed single stage paint when I'm trying to remove some 1500 grit sanding scratches I accidentally missed when sanding with 3000. It is extremely expensive but does a decent job creating a uniform scratch pattern without instilling deeper scratches like the old xmt#4 would leave behind. Does 3m Super duty leave any deeper scratches or is its just alot of haze and swirls that can be removed with a modern compound like FG400 or M101?
 
There are some key words in my last paragraph of my comments that shouldn't be scanned over. It's not a daily use product. It's a go-to product for use when things aren't normal. I can tell you that SD removed scratches that other compounds failed to remove...and in that situation finished nicely compared to how it would finish on much softer paints. You have to realize that if M105 and yellow LC CCS pad on a rotary wasn't removing the problem, that any scratches you might normally see on much softer will not show up because obviously, the paint is much harder.

Here's my example:
In the photo below, M105, 3M EX, would not touch these door handles even with a small wool pad on rotary, although M105 worked great for the rest of the panels with foam. Keep in mind I kept rotary speed as slow as I could get it, so that could have been a big factor in why the other compounds didn't work. I doubt if 800rpm's had the wool fibers pulled as tight as they should be to cut properly. The flip side of that is I was new to using a rotary on paint at the time and the fact that with a small area like that things can go wrong in a hurry, so I took it slow. That same small wool pad with SD did the trick though. Results are what I was seeking. I didn't care if I had the rotary at the proper speed, or used proper technique to pull the wool fibers tight enough to cut harder. In keeping things slow I also did not generate the heat that was possible with more speed. Unfortunately I did not get a photo of the finished door handles afterwards. However, when the panels got shined up properly those door handles sure looked odd in comparison until I tried the 3M SD on them. That did the trick.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1589/800_Trashed_Trailblazer_196.jpg
 
I like Dodo juice lime prime & i always prefer polishes which won't dry quickly on me , I also used meguiars black wax as polish wipeon/wipeoff & actually it worked pretty good, considering these two products which other polishes you guys recommend,
Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top